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WTN: Grillin n chillin with Palo Cortado Sherry, VA Chard, Ahr Spät, RRV PN

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Keith M

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WTN: Grillin n chillin with Palo Cortado Sherry, VA Chard, Ahr Spät, RRV PN

by Keith M » Sat Jun 23, 2007 7:33 am

Had some friends over to grill up a storm and had some pleasant surprises. The Lustau Palo Cortado absolutely blew me away and was a great starter as I prepared the grill. Then onto the first course with Pfifferlingen/Chanterelle mushroom toast -- which required some chardonnay as part of the recipe, so we used the only bottle we had on hand and the Blenheim Ox-Eye far surpassed my expectations and recollections from tasting it a year ago--quite a nifty wine. Then onto the grilled tuna and grilled you-name-it (eggplant, spargel, green asparagus, blue cheese and bacon grilled new potato salad) with the Kreuzberg Spätburgunder. Here yet another pleasant surprise--I was mightily unimpressed by the Ahr wines I sampled a few months ago (including this one) and wasn't expecting much. But what a match, great with the tuna and quite a strong wine--one that indicated a potential in the Ahr that my previous Späts have not. Alas, should have quit there, because the impulsive move to open the Suncé pinot noir faltered, mainly because its intense sweetness was quite unwelcome after the wonderfully refreshing spätburgunder. It was a technically-interesting wine and might have worked better at another time and place--just did not work here, alas.

N.V. Emilio Lustau Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Palo Cortado Península (Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Andalucía, Spain) 19% - appears caramel-brown, beautifully reflective, smell fabulous nose, sweet nuts, barely any alcohol on nose, intense pecan pie, mouthwatering, smidge of butterscotch-toffee, carmelized fruit, this is what I call a seductive nose, mouthfeel is smooth and slippery, taste is not as sweet as nose would suggest, big super spicy-spice, fiery at times, clean, the cleanness of the finish is amazing, it combines the intense concentration of raisinesque flavors with the juiciest most succulent fruit you’ll find, superfresh, great fun. Thought the label suggests you can consume it chilled or at room temperature, I strongly preferred it at room temperature—the flavors really came out to play. The superfresh qualities dimmed after a few days in the fridge, but otherwise held up quite well for a week. From producer: A full-bodied dry Sherry between the Amontillado and Oloroso types

2004 Blenheim Vineyards Ox-Eye Virginia Chardonnay (Virginia, USA) 12.5% - appears deep reflective gold, smell strong tropical, spicy, papaya, bright and sharp, mouthfeel thick and viscous, almost bit too much, but excellent flow, taste lots of spice, great fruit, beautifully integrated and balanced, soft melon and banana in mid-palate, very mellow which works really well as counterpoint to explosiveness on spice front, superb lasting spice finish, really enjoyed this wine more than I was expected, the fruit is just so good, bit of vanilla lurking around which I didn’t care for, but, fun to drink, very fresh, very good fruit. From producer: 100% Chardonnay from Ox-Eye Vineyard, planted in Frederick-Christian silt loam with a limestone base and located southwest of Staunton in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley

2005 Kreuzberg Devonschiefer Ahr Spätburgunder Qualitätswein Trocken (Ahr, Germany) 13.5% – appears see-through ruby, nice light maroon, smell tobacco, spice, library books upfront, taste tart cherry, great spice, the flavor profile is rather simple, and at first doesn’t make a huge impression, yet layers itself wonderfully with approach combining wonderful raspberry fruit with increasing acidity and tasty muted spice, fantastic match with tuna off the grill, mighty tasty and refreshing wine

2004 Suncé Winery & Vineyard Rodella Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA) 13.9% – appears medium light plum color, reflective, halo, smell big abrasive spice upfront, hay/cough, raspberry/cherry, only hint of alcohol, but it is there, lurking complexity in nose but quite faint, mouthfeel light with just touch of heft, quite smooth, taste sweet upfront, spice integrated quite nicely, meaty interesting background notes, technically speaking, I think this wine did pretty well and stayed pretty interesting, but for my preferences it was kind of weird, the sweetness is something else and the alcohol—though not forward enough to be a fault—is always around the corner, feels like a wine that was saved from being what it otherwise would be, I enjoyed it but probably would not seek out another, and don’t try pairing it with food at that just pushes the alcohol to the forefront. From producer: The 45-year old, dry-farmed Rodella Vineyard is planted in the hallowed Russian River dry creek bed along Westside Road. A third of the clusters were left whole in this classic cold soaked Pinot Noir for an extended 26-day maceration. Hand punched in small lots twice daily; this wine was handled with extreme care
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Re: WTN: Grillin n chillin with Palo Cortado Sherry, VA Chard, Ahr Spät, RRV PN

by Jenise » Sat Jun 23, 2007 12:13 pm

It was a technically-interesting wine and might have worked better at another time and place--just did not work here, alas.


Sounds familiar! The alcohol that just wiped me out on a Swan Zinfandel following a glass of restrained Puligny-Montrachet worked fine one day later when the food was barbecue and a succession of red wines had preceded it. And last week I opened a grenache that a month before I'd loved--didn't find the 16% alcohol heavy, but opening that wine after a bunch of well aged offerings none of which had more than 13.5% to start with, it was completely offensive.

Under other circumstances 13.9% alcohol--if that's a real number--shouldn't have scared you away like that, but I can understand how following a bunch of generally low alc German rieslings, it was over the top.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Grillin n chillin with Palo Cortado Sherry, VA Chard, Ahr Spät, RRV

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Jun 23, 2007 6:24 pm

I cannot remember when the same wine had 3 reviews in 2 days. I refer to the Palo Cortado naturally!!
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Keith M

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Re: WTN: Grillin n chillin with Palo Cortado Sherry, VA Chard, Ahr Spät, RRV

by Keith M » Sun Jun 24, 2007 3:33 pm

Jenise wrote:Under other circumstances 13.9% alcohol--if that's a real number--shouldn't have scared you away like that, but I can understand how following a bunch of generally low alc German rieslings, it was over the top.


Indeed, sometimes it is all about the context. In this case, however, it wasn't the alcohol that made it a difficult transition. Rather it was the unexpected punch of sweetness in the Californian pinot noir right after we finished the German one. Starting off on the wrong foot, as it were. Didn't even notice the alcohol until day 2 or 3--and then only with food did it come to the forefront. But in another setting, sure, it might have shone--which explains my regret in impulsively opening it. Yet another live and learn!

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