Pinging Bucko: Italian varietals in Washington state

[Jenise]

Bucko,

I'm ordering Yellow Hawk's barbera, sangiovese and dry muscat for a tasting featuring WA-Ital wines. Besides Yellowtail, and the obvious Leonetti, can you give me any leads on whose doing what, and what you'd recommend?

Nothing wrong with Leonetti Sangio - except the price - are you doing this event for the masses again?

You might look at Duck Pond Sangio, and you could always take a felt pen and change 'gris' to 'grigio' on the label of your choice....

FWIW I have never found a WA or CA Italian varietal wine worth buying.

[Jenise]

Yes, another tasting for 60ish. I hear you re Italy vs. Washington or California or anywhere but Italy--I don't expect to be wowed but it will be amusing to see what's out there. And I promise you, half the people in the room will like Hoque's severely oaked sangiovese better than any Tuscan. And is that so terrible? Especially if next time they buy that, a wine they've never purchased before, instead of another bottle of Yellow Tail or Kendall Jackson?

Been searching around since my first post and found that Woodward Canyon makes a Dolcetto. Also, nebbiolo and sangiovese from Wildridge--I've never had any of their wines. Wildridge also makes a Pinot Grigio, as does Chatter Creek.

I found the 2002 Wineglass Cellars Boushey Vineyard Sangiovese to be a very good wine. I haven't tried anything later than that, but given their track record, I would be willing to take a chance on that wine again.

During our last visit to Prosser, I tasted the 2005 Desert Wind Barbera, which I found to be very appealing. It has small amounts of Sangiovese, Syrah and Cabernet Franc blended in.

-- Clark

[Jenise]

Clark, thanks for those reccos. Admittedly, I've not paid any attention to Wineglass--met the owner and his wife for the first time at an industry tasting, and they were pouring an oxidized wine of 5 or 6 years of age. He asked me what I thought of the wine, and I was honest but kind in my response. Well, he got huffy and suggested I wasn't used to drinking aged wines. On the contrary, I had to explain, that's about all I do drink, and most are older than his. He continued to argue, even when another taster echoed agreement with my verdict. Anyway, I've avoided Wineglass since. The Desert Wind sounds a bit more promising--not had their wines, either.

Other than Yellow Hawk, I don't pay them any attention. I have tried a few Sanjos that are acceptable from these wineries:

Three Rivers
Tamarack
Five Star
Columbia (Red Willow)

Leonetti, WallaWalla Vinters, Outlook and Andrew Will also make some.

Barbera?

I've only tried Yellow Hawk. Columbia Winery, Cascade Cliffs, Wishram and Woodward Canyon have also made them.

Nebbiolo?

I have only tried Wilridge. Tefft Cellars and Cavatappi Winery have made them.

Dolcetto?

No personal knowledge.

I have been underwhelmed by the Italian varietal wines here. Acceptable? Yes. Memorable? No.

Reininger makes a Sangiovese Rose:

http://www.reiningerwinery.com/2006Heli ... seRose.htm

So did another winery near Prosser, possibly Kestrel. (I see in 2006 their Rose' is primarily Merlot with some Sangiovese and other grapes.) They make a regular Sangiovese but 2004 is the latest release on their website.

BTW, at our Fayetteville Wine Society tasting of Washington wines in May I was impressed with a Reininger Helix white and a red (the white was Aspersa from Chardonnay and Pinot Gris grapes and the red was Pomatia.) I ordered two bottles of the red wine.

If you're looking for something inexpensive but decent to throw in the mix, Waving Tree Winery (from the Maryhill area, on the Columbia) has (or had) a good 2004 Sangiovese. It wouldn't win any contests for complexity but tastes like Sangiovese and works with food the way one should and a good deal at $10, a price you don't often see on New World Sangiovese. I don't have any other experience with the winery, so don't know what that would mean for other vintages.

Also, you may know that Barnard Griffin makes a passable and widely available Rosé of Sangiovese, so that may mean they make a red version, too.

Jenise,

When I was in Walla Walla last summer, I had the Yellow Hawk Barbera and thought it was outstanding. My note:

Yellow Hawk Cellars 2004 Columbia Valley Barbera, $19
My first ever Barbera from Washington state and did this vintner ever do a great job with it! This is remarkably like a fruit-forward Piedmontese barbera, with bright and rich cherry fruit and dusty earth on the nose and palate, no trace of oak, and typical barbera acidity. Very food-friendly. Excellent match with pasta primavera. Two days later, it’s just as delightful. If this wine is any indication, the grape holds great potential for the region.

In addition, Morrison Lane makes a Barbera and a Nebbiolo. I liked the Barbera a great deal, though maybe not quite as much as Yellow Hawk's. I bought a bottle of the 2003 Nebbiolo just to see how it would turn out with some age on it (never had a non-Italian Nebbiolo before) -- when I tasted it at the winery, I couldn't discern a whole lot beyond the ample tannins.

I've had Yellow Hawk's Sangiovese in the past and liked it. I also had one from Russell Creek that I thought was too oaky, but not without some redeeming qualities. My note:

Russell Creek 2004 Columbia Valley Sangiovese, $25
This is very oaky, yet I can find some enjoyment nevertheless. The oak is soft and does not prevent the rich bright cherry fruit from shining through. Very smooth and elegant in texture with very good acidity. Excellent match with pesto. Four days later, it’s still very smooth, fruit-forward and enjoyable with the oak less dominant.

I just got to taste a Barbera and Sangiovese from Bunnell Family yesterday. They were both very well balanced and true to character.

Jenise,

Yellow Hawk Walla Walla Sangiovese is the best. Walter Dacon (Shelton, WA winery) makes a good Red Mountain Sangiovese.

tiny Marshal's Winery in Dallesport, WA makes a good Barbara from estate fruit.

But, best Washington wine made from Italian varietal may very well be Barnard Griffin's Rose (from Sangiovese).

I agree that most Washington winemakers tend to oak sangiovese too much.

Walter Dacon

I forgot all about them -- pretty nice juice for New World. Their Syrah is not shabby either.

I see someone mentioned the Morrison Lane Wa-Ital varietals. I'm not a big fan of them, although a visit to the tasting room in Walla Walla is fun. Dean sometimes plays jazz with his pals in the evenings.

Someone mentioned Bunnell Family Cellar? I really like their "Vif," but that's a Rhone blend. They have Pinot Gris ...
http://www.riveraerie.com/

Dave

Sounds like I should try some of those Yellow Hawk wines.

Thanks for the interesting discussion.

Jenise, who sells the Yellow Hawk around here?

Sounds like I should try some of those Yellow Hawk wines.

Yes, definitely! They're the go-to WaItal wines for sure. The Sangio is very good, and that dry Muscat will definitely wake up a few people ...

Dave

So did another winery near Prosser, possibly Kestrel. (I see in 2006 their Rose' is primarily Merlot with some Sangiovese and other grapes.) They make a regular Sangiovese but 2004 is the latest release on their website.

You are correct, in that Kestrel did make a Sangiovese Rose'. I tried it a couple of years ago (2004 vintage), and thought it was way too sweet.

-- Clark

I think that's probably the vintage I tried but unlike you, I enjoyed it.