Belated notes dating back to October 2006 on an evening out at Restaurant Gupf in Rehetobel (http://www.gupf.ch), known for its cellar, fine food and, last but not least, panorama view over the Bodensee (Lake of Constance). All wines except the Richebourg were BYO provided by Victor (thanks again for organising this), Dani, Markus and his girlfriend Nici, plus of course yours truly.
Krug Champagne Brut 1989
Ordered from the wine list. Pale yellow-gold. Softly nutty brioche, almond blossom, softly mature Amalfi lemon, quite round if not soft acids and perlage/bubbles, good persistence, more than fair but not great length. More opulence on the nose than the palate, Victor finds the 1989 a bit leaner than the 1988. But increasingly complex, finesseful and longer with airing. May still improve a little with bottle age. Rating: 91+/92?
Château Yquem Sauternes 1997
Thanks to Markus. Medium-plus gold. Coconut oak, quince, a touch of brown bread botrytis, almond shell, macadamia oil, aristocratic oily-lemony pineapple, nicely spicy, mace and fruit orangeat (=candied orange peel), faintly tobacco-like bitter note, with airing sultana, seabuckthorn, golden apple and faint tangerine. Quite firm acidity for a 1997, but not the freshest or highest-toned vintage of Yquem, nor the most powerful nor the longest, but well-concentrated, sweet and somewhat darkly flavourful. Rangy, Victor said, but not as deep as the 2001. Noticeable but not too warm alcohol. Viscous finish and aftertaste. White glue botrytis, alcoholic warmth and bitter note became more prominent with airing. All in all, a rather convincing showing. Rating: 93+
Henri Boillot Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 2004
Thanks to Victor. Aged in 350 litre piece. Medium-pale gold, faint green hue. Nice oak integration already. Baffling liver top note. Rather mild medium-dried and fresh lime and soft herbs, albeit with good cut. Pear, a little nut, faint dried apricot. Still tight minerality. Good medium to full body. Very minerally and quite long. Reminiscent of a Bonneau du Martray with more subtlety. Could be longer and more complex, as well as intense. Rating: 91+/92(+?)
Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1995
The first of two bottles I owned, both of which were badly cork-tainted. Bummer... Full lightly purple ruby-black. Muted, not too obviously cork-tainted, but bitter and tight. Geranium, some of the typical beef juice, clove, wet earth. Nose at least informative, palate inacceptable. Rating: N/R
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1999
The magnum we ordered from the wine list was so subtly cork-tainted (the TCA taint itself was indiscernible), we had to convince the sommelier (actually, Dani and Markus, too – luckily, Victor and I knew the wine from a release tasting and persisted): youthfully deep lightly purple ruby-black almost to the rim. Closed, no doubt, but by far not as complex, deep, finesseful and long as it should be. More tannic and high-acid, a bit metallic acids and a steel note. Red beet, sour cherry, green pepper. Highly concentrated, but inexpressive, a bit mute and short. A touch of celery and persil on the finish. Got worse and shorter with airing.
That magnum being the last, the sommelier served us a standard size bottle. Huge difference! A fraction glossier, livelier colour. Open-knit, sweet and long smoky fruit, smooth and powerful, terroir-driven, much meatier/beefier, precise raspberry with cut (none of the red beet and celery, nor abrupt shortness). Much more balanced and harmonious. Nice subtle tobacco from the empty stem. Not on the level of the La Tâche we ordered last time, and more evolved. Rating: 94+/~95
René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 1998
Thanks to Markus. From a site called La Garde, which is sandwiched between La Mouline and Chatillonne, from vines planted in 1934, 1970 and 1971, it contains 4% Viognier, 50% stems used during fermentation. Slightly less glossy-opaque purple-ruby than the 1999, more of watery ruby-red rim. Floral and peachy, firm and cool yet fully and thoroughly ripe. Notes of green licorice stick, faint tobacco ash, nicely integrated. Tannin and soft acidity with some cut, drier than the 1999’s. The 1998 is lighter on its feet, free from heaviness, smokier. Full but less massive body. Very long. With airing garriguey herbs and black olive, quark- or curd-like freshness. Rating: 95+/96(+?)
René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 1999
Thanks to Dani. From a site called La Garde, which is sandwiched between La Mouline and Chatillonne, from vines planted in 1934, 1970 and 1971, it contains 4% Viognier, 50% stems used during fermentation. Opaque purple-ruby to the rim. Lavender and violet essence that glides over the palate like olive oil. Fatter with bacon fat than the 1998, more super-ripely peachy, more roasted fruit. Great fruit density, but so closed at present, the in fact low acidity sticks out. Buttery egg white note on the nose. The 1999 is clearly the more generous and complex of the two. Mouthfillingly thick wine with the utterly exceptional tannin quality of the vintage, peppery-fresh. Jammier than the 1998, but not too jammy at all. Super-concentrated, very minerally. Juicy wine with an attractive chestnut sweetness. Inexorably long on the finish. Potentially perfect, the wine of the night. Rating: 98+/99+?
Giuseppe Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto di Monte Cà Paletta 1988
My other contribution that night. Deep ruby-black, still with a purple hue. One of the faintly volatile bottles, if almost as good as the best. Nicely oily-sweet and honeyed prune juice, coffee chocolate, and there is still some of the softly dusty brown bread botrytis. Nicely palate-coating, very long. Rating: ~95
Greetings from Switzerland, David.