WTN: Dinner with the BB's Riesling Guru

David Bueker was in my neck of the woods on business, so we set up a dinner with my wife, Dawn, and a few of my--non-wine geek--friends. Nothing formal and no theme, just an excuse to pop some corks. A good time was had by all. I hope David gets back this way soon with his clubs (and more of those Germans).

We started off with a new producer, at least me: Daniel Vollenweider. I can see why he is getting some great press. We had the '01 Goldgrube Wolfer Spatlese, 04 02, which appears to be on of his first bottlings. An enjoyable bottle. I expect David can jump in with more info.

I brought a bottle of the '04 Rosenblum Sauret for Craig and Rose. They aren't big wine drinkers but they enjoyed drinking through my '02s and '03s. Mark brought a bottle of '01 Valsacro Cosecha Rioja. A big wine in the popular style, a tough match for the meal. Probably more enjoyable on its own.

The next two bottles, however, definitely called out for food. First the '96 Jadot Ursules:

Opened an hour before dinner and followed for another 2 hours. Cork was in excellent shape. Color was a clear medium ruby red with a tease of bricking. A little funky and earthy at first with red fruits coming on the nose through the night. The searing acidity and tannic grip made a quick appearance; not a surprise given the reputation of the vintage. Yet everything seemed to fall into place through the evening. A pleasant velvety texture, some tangy cranberry, cherry fruits and a moderate finish. Starting to show maturity--mixed with some brown stemminess--but needs more time to flesh out.

Next came the '95 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Bdm:

Also given an hour of air pre-dinner and savored over the next two hours. Cork showed minor seepage. Color was a clear, but slightly dull ruby red with some definite bricking. Nose was almost non-existant for the first 30 minutes but then exploded with red fruits and roses. Nothing to quibble about on the palate: taste follows scent and adds an overlay of black fruits, good balance yet lean and tart enough to support the meal, enough hints of mushrooms and forest floor to keep everything interesting and a moderate finish. Drinking well now, with air (a bit too tannic to pop and pour), and for the foreseeable future. My WOTN.

We ended up with David's .375 of '99 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese**. Unfortunately I missed the ap number on this one. A youthful beauty that is not overpoweringly sweet. A close second for WOTN.

Good company, good food and good wine; you can't beat it.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks again for dinner Dan.

I was also a big fan of the Brunello, but I preferred the Jadot Ursules. It still needs 3-5 more years, but there are glimpses of beauty along with ample acidity!

In all likelihood there was only one bottling of 1999 Selbac-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese**, so the AP is probably irrelevant. I loved that it was classicial auslese instead of TBA sold as auslese.

The Vollenweider was from Daniel's second vintage & it showed quite sweet, but with solid balancing acidity and good mineral base underneath all that material.

The Rioja was a bit modern for my taste, but not so much so that I wouldn't drink it.

As for the Rosenblum Sauret Zin - lots of oak, but berry fruit underneath. I prefer the 2005 version.

Good folks, good food, good wine, good time.

Next came the '95 Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova Bdm:

I opened a bottle of this in Jan. Here are my notes from then:

1995 Casanova di Neri "Tenuta Nuova" Brunello di Montalcino
color: garnet in the center, going to brick at the edges
nose: powerful, dried cherries, leather and earth
palate: smooth and polished, not a hint of tannin, elegant mixture of cherry, leather and coffee with a slightly spicy finish.

My cellar might very well be warmer than wherever your bottle came from, so that might account for the somewhat more advanced state of my bottle. Like you, though, I liked the wine very much.

Mark Lipton