Belated notes from August 2006.
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 1988
A bottle I once bought at auction. Glossy amber-ruby, some black reflections, large amber-orange rim. Nose of fig, varnish, buckskin. Harmonious, mature, almost fully dissolved tannin, good finesse, lovely Burgundian character and vinosity. Nicely bison meat- and tea-like tannin. Pretty, harmonious though not particularly complex aftertaste. Thyme and especially oregano, a suggestion of dried tomato. “Little retro-olfaction, but perfectly clean”, Rainer said. Drinks so easily at this stage. “Nose below 90, palate still about 93 points” is how Rainer rated this, who also found this “so authentic.” Rating: 91-/90
Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint Denis Les Chaffots 1997
Thanks to Albino, whom I had once given it as a present. Needs decanting as there is some sediment. Full shiny ruby with black reflections. Quite dense and a bit smoky, complex blueberry fruit, nicely medium- to full-bodied. Evolving so much better than expected, barely exotic anymore at all (as this was at release, when it tasted virtually Rhône-like). Soft freshly cracked grey pepper. Long and smooth. Lignier’s 1997s are definitely among the most impressive of the vintage. Seemed with (with airing) surprisingly 1999-like in character and balance. Rating: 91
Taylor’s Vintage Port 1994
Half bottle thanks to Albino. Still opaque purple-ruby-black, slight watery purple rim. Still somewhat closed of course, and nowhere near ready, but so deep and complex, concentrated and intense, as well as extremely well-balanced, 1970-like in its early harmony, seemingly even longer and more complete, a perfect young Port the likes of which have not been made since. We had once hoped that thanks to that superior early harmony of the 1994s, even the top wines of the vintage would be reasonably approachable once they reach the age of fifteen. It now looks as if, even though such well-balanced wines are a pleasure to taste throughout their lifespan, the top 1994s are too big to fully open up (let alone show true signs of maturity) before they reach age twenty. Even so, Albino will certainly continue to pull at least one cork on the Taylor and Fonseca each year. Having said that, other 1994s (especially ones not 100% foot-trodden) may enter their plateau of maturity sometime between 2009 and 2014. Retasted six days later, this refused to open up. Rating: 98+/100?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.