2004 Nicholson Ranch Chardonnay Estate Russian River Valley California. 14.7% Alcohol. $30, Andrea Robinson Wine Club. http://www.nicholsonranch.com/
Pale gold color, pale hue, very good aromas and tastes of citrus fruit, minerals and spices, medium mouth feel, slightly oaky, but the firm acidity creates a lovely balance with the fruit and the oak, long, lingering finish with fruit, spice and mineral notes. I'm always prepared to dislike Chardonnays with so much alcohol, but this one hid the hotness beautifully. 4*.
Wine maker notes: 1217 cases produced, 14.7% alcohol, 30% new French oak, 80% clone 4, 20% Dijon clones. Pale gold complexion. Nose of lychee, lemon meringue, vanilla custard and wet river rock. The clone 4 in the blend provides some tropical notes of shredded coconut, banana chips and guava. The dijon clones contribute a citrusy minerality and the smell and texture of the underlying framing acidity. The fruit quality on the palate is hard to pin down, balancing the two ends of the Chardonnay spectrum: sweet and fat and racy and focused. The finish is very clean and long with the abundance of fruit sustained and framed nicely by firm acidity.
Andrea's Notes: This is a wine my husband John and I discovered the way we do so many of the little-gem California producers we have in the club - by stumbling over it in our own back yard. Or in this case, it was actually our front yard. Several months back when we were renting a place prior to moving into our house, we had the chance to meet our then-neighbors, Mike and Leah Smith, when they were out walking with their kids and dog. After Leah learned about what we do (including the club), she dropped a bottle of this wine by and said, "Mike would kill me if he knew, but I want you to try this." Her husband Mike is the winemaker for Nicholson Ranch, and I guess felt a little sheepish about parading his handiwork in front of us. And I'll be honest, I was a little nervous because what if we didn't like it?
But on the contrary, we loved it when we tasted it, both giving each other one of those "are you thinking what I'm thinking?" looks. Yes. We were both thinking, "Wow, this tastes like top-class French white Burgundy - Meursault or Chassagne." But better in one sense too - it has that luxuriant ripeness and "fatness" in the mouth for which California Chardonnays are famous, while maintaining great balance. As a gut check, we followed our common practice of getting another bottle, and tasted it blind against French white Burgundies and many other great California benchmark Chardonnays. It won the tasting (and held up beautifully over several days in the refrigerator, to boot).
What is it about the wine that seems "Burgundian"? There is a hint of stony, mineral scent (think wet gravel/clay) that segues into a richer fragrance of toasted almonds and hazelnuts, then a smoky-fruity smell like grilled pineapple. As I mentioned, the palate is at once sumptuous (honey and pineapple) and lively. I cannot wait to see how this wine evolves with age. If you have storage space I strongly recommend you get a few extra bottles to age for 3-5 years.
Seared Scallops with Tarragon Mushroom Sauce Serves 2
¾ lb sea scallops
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil
1 T unsalted butter, approximately
1/2 small shallot, minced
1/4 c Chardonnay or other dry white wine
4 oz mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 teaspoons chopped tarragon, or more to taste
Season scallops with salt and pepper. Heat about 1 tablespoon oil to medium high in a heavy skillet. When the oil is hot add about ½ tablespoon butter and when the butter foams, add the scallops. Cook until the first side is golden brown, 2-3 minutes, turn, and cook another 2-3 minutes until the other side is golden brown. Remove to a plate and tent with foil until ready to serve. Meanwhile, reduce the heat in the pan to medium, add the shallots to the pan and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add a small splash of the white wine and stir to scrape up any browned bits. Add the mushrooms and remaining butter and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms begin to brown and soften. Add the remaining wine and continue stirring until it is nearly evaporated. Stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper and simmer 1-2 minutes to reduce slightly. Stir in tarragon or chervil, spoon over scallops and serve immediately.