WTN: Ch. Coutet 1997

I had a red burg standing up all ready to go with home-made chow mien tonight, but as things always seem to turn out with two teenage daughters in tow, the family splintered in five seconds flat, I ate alone and when Janet returned home from family taxi duties, she wasn't in the mood for pinot (or me, for that matter) but mentioned she'd like something sweet. The only thing on hand was a '97 Coutet. So here goes ......

Slightly burnished mid-gold with tremendous depth and a luminescent brightness. Reeks and tastes of candied apricots, powdery botrytis, dessicated coconut encrusted pineapple, creme brule', citrus peel, marzipan, poached yellow peaches, a touch of butterscotch and the haunting everpresent overlay of spicy oak that, seemingly, only the French can infuse seamlessly into their Sauternes. There's nothing overly heavy or cloying to be found in this wine, although I don't believe this will make extremely old bones, displaying just enough acidity, freshness and equilibrium to suggest this will continue to hold for another 5-10 years. With extended breathing everything got a little thicker and more unctious, further enforcing my belief this will be better drunk sooner than later. Excellent drop, all the same. 90 points.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks David.

My first Coutet was the 2001. It was right up there with La Tour Blanche & Rieussec as my favorite of the vintage.

.... So, I take it, that means you've not tried, what I consider, Chateau d'Yquem's most foremost rival, Coutet's prestige cuvee, Cuvee Madame. If a bottle of 1986, 1989 or 1990 ever crosses your path, you should be in for a rare treat. The 1971 I tried last year was, sadly, not a great example. Another bottle from the same case, tried some months after (I was not there! ), was, reportedly, spectacular.

As you mention in your reply, you rate the 2001 Rieussec very highly. Unfortunately, I haven't had the chance to try this particular wine as yet and with the way its'price has escalated over here, I'm not at all confident I'll ever be buying any. In any case, the most recent Rieussec's I've bought and tried (1989 and 1990) seemed to verge on the overextracted/cloying. This very rich, unctious, fat style of Sauternes just does not rock my boat. Does the 2001 Rieussec you tried fit this description? The last Rieussec that blew me away was the 1988 - a more refined and elegantly wrought example, sensationally nuanced, plenty of extract but counterbalanced with just fantastic racy acidity - a real keeper. I have fond memories, too, of the 1975 and two overlooked vintages that may now be in decline - 1980 and 1981.

[David M. Bueker]

David,

No Cuvee Madame as of yet. Some day.

Nearly all of the 2001 Sauternes appeal to me because of the balancing acids. Rieussec is no exception. It is huge, but it has the acid to back up the beef.

I should say though that my favorite (if forced to choose) from that lovely vintage is the La Tour Blanche. It's so elegant while also being so concentrated.

It may not surprise you given my Riesling habit, that my original path to Sauternes was blazed by the 1988s.

Does the 2001 Rieussec you tried fit this description?

Also IMO, no. It is balanced though rich and does have nice acidity. What I usually find worrisome with Rieussec is the oak which seems a bit annoying to me young. Alas, I have never tasted older examples so can't say if I will like them old. Off vintages like 2000 I have rather liked. And, oddly enough, I did enjoy 2003 - it is low in acid, but somehow stayed in balance. I must have been in a forgiving mood on the day I tasted it... Generally, I prefer the brighter, more refreshing styles of Climens and Suduiraut.

-O-

David,

Have to agree with you there. Loved all three but like many that I know, the La Tour Blanc was tops for us on the vintage. Good that those can still be found in the US for somewhere around $65-70, though there are so many good 2001. A good cheaper one is Ch. Myrat that you can get a case of for the price of one D'Yquem....though the D'Yquem was heavenly too.