WTN: Paulo in NYC

Paulo Faustini was in town from Philadelphia, Jay Miller organized an offline Sunday to greet him. Betsy was away, and I jumped on a chance to drink good wine with nice people. We convened at La Grolla, where eventually even the perpetually late Jay arrived (that's how reps get destroyed on the internet).

A really fun night. The La Grolla staff was nice and welcoming, and the food was mostly quite good. I loved my octopus/fava/potatp/tomato salad, and my main course of roast rabbit with rosemary was very tasty. The duck ragu over whole wheat pasta was a little bland. We're going back.

And to the wine:

NV Pinon Vouvray Brut
Broad apple fruit, a hint of fresh-baked bread, fun and easy. Jay determines with questioning that this is from the "very good lot" from last year. B/B+

2005 Ottaviano Lambruschi Colli di Luni Vermentino
I see Vermentino on label and take a sip expecting a lighter wine. Nope. Brisk acidity, but lots of body there. Very minerally, both chalk and slate. I really like this wine, and return to it with my octopus salad. B+/A-

1996 Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) "Cuvée Renaissance" Cour-Cheverny
More grapefruity than a bottle I served a couple months ago, nice balance between the sweetness and the citric bite, B/B+

2006 Larmes du Paradis Rosé, Vallée d`Aoste rosato
Apparently about 85% nebbiolo, 15% freisa. Very light, sprightly, and elegant. Reminds me of the 2002 or 2004 Il Mimo. Jeff states he likes this better than the more recent Il Mimos; I like both styles- this is more the picnic sipper on a hot day by the river, the Il Mimo more the bigger rose to have with grilled meats. B+/A-

1973 Lungarotti Rubesco
Scary to look at. Mid-shoulder fill, cork isn't just protruding, but top has expanded like a mushroom. It crumbles on removal, the strained wine is murky and unpleasant looking. But this isn't a painting, we're not looking at it,we're drinking it. And I'm shocked how alive it is. A touch high-toned, warm red fruit with notes of caramel and orange peel. A pretty tasty wine, just don't look at it. B+

1964 Marchese di Villadoria Barolo Riserva
Jute bag and a pullstring! Assuming this is the same Villadoria one sees thee days, currently they make inexpensive B & B for near-term consumption. But this wine in its funny packaging is really quite lovely at 43, cherry fruit remaining under the more dominant earth, tar, and saddle leather. My WOTN. A-

1974 Franco Fiorina Barbaresco Riserva
Red fruit, lifted nose, rose petals and citrus zest. Nice wine, but suffers a tad from the comparison to the 1964. Still a little tannic! B/B+

1998 Michel Lafarge Volnay
I'm a Lafarge freak, and probably liked a bit more than table. A little tight and closed at first, but opens nicely. Still some tannins, but not obtrusive to me. Red cherry fruit, a little woodsmoke and cedar, a mineral note on finish. Nice medium-weight village Volnay. B+

2001 Arcadian "Sleepy Hollow Vineyard" Pinot Noir (Monterey)
Big and slightly hot nose of kirsch and candy, I'm surprised based on my previous experiences of Arcadian. Nose calms with time, on revisit I find a nice if rather aggressive Pinot. B

1995 Ch. Musar (Bekka Valley)
Whoa, load of VA on the nose. Proust had his madeleines, I have Musar to stimulate memories- suddenly I'm 12 and making model airplaces again. I just can't get past this nose. I hold my nose and taste, a decent if tannic and slightly coarse red. It gets better as the VA eventually mostly blows off, but my least favorite red of the night. Of course, the next bottle will be totally different. B-/C+ (D originally)

1991 Ch. Musar (Bekka Valley)
But on the other hand.......just a slightly lifted nose, a little high-toned treat with very sweet red fruit, earth , leather, and citrus rind. With time the fruit becomes darker, with hints of cassis. One of the prettiest Musars I've run across. Of course, the next bottle will be totally different. A-/B+

2000 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny
Cherries and raspberries, herbs, a little tobacco. Good acidity, light tannins, good length. Gets a spicy note with time. B+

1996 Montevertine Riserva (Tuscan IGT)
OK, this is the part where I stopped any notes. Later on train I wrote typical Montevertine- bright Chianti dried cherry fruit, red plums, a little cigarbox and leather. B+/B

2000 Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine (Niagara)
Apricot fruit and canned peaches, a little fat, somewhat flat. Musky, perfumey, not for me. C+

I had a cheese plate with gorgonzola, fontina, and parmesan. Lovely evening. To make it evening better, when my train pulled into station, there was a neighbor picking up a relative, so I didn't need to walk the mile+ home. Great to meet Paulo, and see everyone else.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

My god.. I hope there were more than 3 or 4 of you! What a wonderful collection of older and newer wines.....the Barolo sounds amazing.... I'm afraid to even start drinking them... and one from 1964!! Very cool!!!

Paulo must have been charmed with so many Italian wines..... did he regale you with an aria????

My god.. I hope there were more than 3 or 4 of you! What a wonderful collection of older and newer wines.....the Barolo sounds amazing.... I'm afraid to even start drinking them... and one from 1964!! Very cool!!!

Paulo must have been charmed with so many Italian wines..... did he regale you with an aria????

Great notes, Dale! No aria as I was too busy with the Belgian chocolate mousse that was divine!!

There were 8 of us, including Jeff Grossman and Jay Miller. I brought the Ligurian white of Lambruschi and the 74 Barbaresco which I purchased at Chamber Street.

My Vermentino from Liguria was quite complex, with pear/nutty fruit, balanced acidity and gorgeous elegant minerality that cried out for seafood. I fell in love with the bubbly and white from the Loire - just incredibly complex wines with so much elegance - a true joy to savor them. The Pinon was a refined apple pie mouth feel, with a refreshing zip. The Cour-Cheverny had a stunning golden color; beautiful honey and citrus on the palate with a clear and well structured acidity - soooo delicious. The older wines were intriguing. The 64 Barolo was the oldest wine I have ever had to date (year I was born!); complex with much earthiness, dried cherry fruit and an elegant structure - a very sensual wine that made me have bad thoughts! The Lungarotti of 1973 was mind boggling; opaque brownish/prunish color; sharp dried prune fruit at the attack, then shockingly empty on the mid palate, and then KABOOM - an overwhelmingly long hazelnut finish that is still with me today.

I did also lose my Musar virginity with the 1991 Chateau Musar - what an elegant wine; cushiony dark fruit attack that embraced you like a gentle hug, with a beautiful subtle peppery finish - to die for. The 95 was sharper. I don't get the glue thing that some get - I never built planes when I was a kid!!!! Beautiful wine.

My palate was too overwhelmed by the time the newer Pinot Noirs rolled around. I should have paced myself better - I was too intrigued with the old wines.

4 and a half hours zipped by so quickly. The company and the conversation was a delight. I must get up to NYC more often! Thank you Jay for organizing!

I need to get to NY if this is the sort of wines one is served! I can't get enough of old Nebbiolo (well, actually I can't get any ) or Musar. It's not a surprise the '95 Musar isn't showing well, and no surprise that you thought the '91 so nice. Nice notes, thanks.

-O-

even the perpetually late Jay arrived (that's how reps get destroyed on the internet).

I hope you've prepared your defense for the Libel Suit.

2006 Larmes du Paradis Rosé, Vallée d`Aoste rosato
Apparently about 85% nebbiolo, 15% freisa. Very light, sprightly, and elegant.

This is the wine that Greg dal Piaz has been so positive about? Doesn't seem like you were as enthousiastic.

This is the wine that Greg dal Piaz has been so positive about? Doesn't seem like you were as enthousiastic.

It was lovely, but it was also surrounded by the stunningly complex Cour-Cheverny and a then a 1964 Barolo, so I think the line up did not do it justice, IMHO.

I hope you've prepared your defense for the Libel Suit.

hey, truth is an absolute defense in US, he WAS the last one to arrive. I guess the perpetually part might be stretching it......

2006 Larmes du Paradis Rosé, Vallée d`Aoste rosato
Very light, sprightly, and elegant.

This is the wine that Greg dal Piaz has been so positive about? Doesn't seem like you were as enthousiastic.

Well, Eden said Greg recommended it, but I don't know what he said. So it's possible I'm less enthusiastic. But I thought I was pretty enthusiastic (sprightly and elegant definitely have positive connotations to me, and I actually rated it higher than any bottle on the table but the '64 Barolo and the '91 Musar). I would buy it, but Eden said it sold out. It was a good night for wines, except the ice wine and the '95 Musar, I'd welcome anything there to my dinner table.

it was also surrounded by the stunningly complex Cour-Cheverny.

Glad to hear you are becoming more and more fond of the Loire wines..

it was also surrounded by the stunningly complex Cour-Cheverny.

Glad to hear you are becoming more and more fond of the Loire wines..

I've been convinced by the whites so far; the reds, on the other hand, have yet to woo me. Sunday I was way distracted and overwhelmed with the old Nebbiolos and the Musar to notice the Clos Rougeard. Alas, tomorow is a new day!

and I actually rated it higher than any bottle on the table but the '64 Barolo and the '91 Musar)..

Ok, I guess I'm guilty of not paying enough attention to the scores. But that is a pretty strong comment actually.

I pretty much agree with Dale on these wines, with the following exceptions:


I liked the 2000 Rougeard 'Poyeaux' a bit less than him. It was nice, but not nearly as good as on release. It might be shut down but 2000 just might not be the best vintage for aging.

I like the 1995 Musar a lot more than him. I'm not especially VA sensitive and thought this a *very* pretty wine, much better than the last one I opened. Of course I also double decanted this one beforehand. That said, it was still overwhelmed by the beautiful 1991.

I liked the Inniskillin even less than Dale. DNPIM stuff.

Great evening, nice meeting Paulo. I've already stood up a bottle in storage in preparation for the dinner.

JC - if you're debating what Finger Lakes wine to bring I'm always a sucker for a nice Rkatsetelli (sp?). It's not a grape I get to drink very often.