WTN: Yalumba Signature 2002. (On "raising" husbands.)

2002 Yalumba Winery The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 56% and Shiraz 44% Barossa Australia. http://www.yalumba.com/ 14.5% alcohol. Imported by Negociants USA Inc. Napa California. $38 from Andrea Robinson Wine Club.

Deep ruby red color, deep hue, intense aroma of cherries and currants with hints of tobacco and licorice and pepper, very good fruit tastes, hints of pepper and tobacco and that licorice note -- Australia makes the very best licorice for my money and this wine just hints at its best examples; medium mouth feel, good tannins and light acidity in good balance with the fruit, exceptionally long finish with notes of earth, fruit, pepper and that same licorice. Drinking very well now, but I would think it has the stuffing and the capability of aging and improving for several years. 4*.

Note: Yalumba honors -- oops honours -- a different employee with each vintage. The 2002 vintage release honours Rhonda Sexton, Key Account Sales Manager in the Victorian branch office. “I have been incredibly lucky. I have been a Yalumba salesperson since 1985 and I cannot imagine working for anyone else. I love Yalumba, who else would pick a ‘nobody’ like me for this great honour? My job has been more about forging relationships with my customers than selling; most people show a nice side sooner or later!

"In all this time, I have only had one nasty moment when a customer made me cry. I went next door, had a hair washdry then marched back into the store. I wrote the biggest order ever!"

I particularly liked this closer from the winery: "All of us who have been lucky enough to work with her can only wonder that she has not only carved out a formidable reputation in the Wine Trade of Victoria but raised a husband and three children and now moves confidently into her role of grandmother to Cooper and Jack."

My wife Janet can only take courage from this endorsement; she may be able to raise me yet.

Regards, Bob

I have a case of this sitting in the cellar, Bob, thanks to a tip from an OZ friend. I was told to leave it alone until its eight birthday or later.

Thanks, Randy. I wouldn't hesitate to wait two or three years to sample this wine. It shows excellent balance now, and is just delightful to drink, but it has a brooding quality that may blossom over time.

Your adviser has a point.

Regards, Bob

[Jenise]

Bob and Bucko, I also own a few bottles of this, picked up at auction for $20ish. After tasting it a year ago, I'm surprised yours was drinking so well now, Bob. I scheduled the next bottle for 2010.

Randy, and Jenise, thanks for the feedback. I'm really puzzled about the reports on this wine. The winery says it hasn't been released yet, although they expect great things.

Wine Spectator thinks it's ready now:

SEP-06 Rated: 91 Bright and generous, a lively mouthful of red berry, cherry and black pepper that gets meaty and rich as the finish sails on and on. Tannins are well-integrated. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2012.

Pricing is all over the lot -- Wine Searcher Pro has it from $35 to $99.

Andrea Robinson normally ships wine that drinks well on receipt, although she advises that it may reward cellaring as well. I've sent her a note and asked for her tasting note on this wine.

It's almost like there are two different wines being described. In any event, I'll revert if Andrea responses to my request for further information. Thanks to you both for your input.

Regards, Bob

BTW, Cellar Tracker's public ratings indicate it is drinking well now, especially after a bit of time in decanter. Tanzer gives it a 93+, indicating it needs a bit of time, although he doesn't say how long it needs.

The public CT reviews:

Tasted by ruddy on 4/8/2007 & rated 92 points: Agree with other notes that this wine needs some time in the decanter or glass to open up. Anise, cassis, bramble/underbrush on the nose. Palate follows nose. Finish has a touch of menthol. A very nice wine at a nice price. (417 views)

Tasted by pgm on 3/30/2007: Bought a couple bottles at a restaurant for a large party. No formal notes taken but the wine was similar but not quite as expressive as the previous bottle tasted at home with decanting. Excellent wine, excellent value, and it was a hit with the group (who bought a third bottle when the two I ordered were emptied). (470 views)

Tasted by spts1000 on 3/2/2007 & rated 93 points: very smooth and integrated. this was a very nice wine and not that big shiraz that i was expecting. a very nice wine and im happy i have another bottle, but wish i had more than one left (645 views)

Tasted by pgm on 2/17/2007 & rated 94 points: Decanted for two hours, but it didn't really come alive for another hour after we began to pour to the glasses. Glad I decanted. It was fantastic. The cabernet profile really dominates, with cassis and black cherry, with a slight, sweet herbal notes somewhere between tobacco, eucalyptus, and olive. For a brief period, it presented a nice note of milk chocolate on the nose and to the palate. The tannins are ample enough to provide a firm structure, but are are exceptionally fine, and well balanced by the acid and fruit.

A really serious wine that performed beyond my expectations. Lives up to high marks by WA and IWC. At ~$36, a very good value. (787 views)

Tasted by Barberolo on 2/15/2007: 56/44 CabSauv/Shz dark ruby/purple translucent, red cherry/cassis fruit with toasty vanilla and pepper, slight menthol/eucalyptus streak with warm earth, med-full bodied with moderate complexity, med- acidity with med+ tannins and med finish. Good but not up to RP/WS ratings. Steak, lamb 2G (Horizon, Icon) (793 views)

Tasted by nob8dnkr on 2/6/2007 & rated 92 points: good solid wine. Much closer to a Shiraz than a cabernet. Very clean, polished wine with separated flavors. I think that age will help this wine develope some complexity which it seems to be lacking. If it had some unique characteristic to it, it would merit an even higher score. (894 views)

Tasted by jacobp on 2/5/2007 & rated 93 points: Licorice on the nose; delightful mouthfeel and long lasting and firm finish with well formed tannins. (937 views)

Tasted by Mark on 1/26/2007 & rated 94 points: No tasting notes, but I recall this to be a lovely signature. These wines are always so attractive when young, previous vintages seemed to lose a little of their luster after a few years of age, let’s see what happens. (1140 views)

Tasted by mfkidd on 1/26/2007 & rated 95 points: Consumed at the Steiner/Traynor house prior to Dyan's birthday party. No serious notes taken as we were whisked away quickly to Katana. But eveyone was mighty impressed with this pop and pour. (1202 views)

Tasted by samurai on 1/21/2007 & rated 92 points: Very drinkable with well integrated tanins. I thought Parker was a little generous with his rating but it's definitely a nice bottle of wine. (1137 views)

Tasted by Pearce on 1/20/2007 & rated 94 points: very ballanced wine, We really enjoyed this, the finish was as strong and smooth as the first breath, very nice. (1078 views)

Tasted by vinaigre on 12/3/2006 & rated 95 points: Montreal MWP End of year offline (02-12-2006) (Restaurant Forchetta): Nice deeep ruby red with violet edge. Nose of sweet wood, cedar and chocolate. Great body, balance and finish of fruits and pepper. Nice long finish.
Have to get some !! (1609 views)

Tasted by KevinS on 12/2/2006 & rated 94 points: Tasted weeks ago, quick thoughts: REALLY enjoyed this. Huge fruit flavors, but retained good balance. You can really taste both the shiraz and cabernet. I'm usually unimpressed with these blends, but this one really worked well, highlighting the strengths of both varietals and complementing them. Will certainly improve, but will be hard to resist... (1566 views)

Tasted by mimik on 12/2/2006 & rated 93 points: A strong nose of black licorice,cedar, chocolate, cassis and plum. More plum and blackberry/currant notes on a lush low acidic palate. Fleshy and a long sweet finish. 93 points (1318 views)

Regards, Bob

[Jenise]

Bob, all I remember knowing about it when I purchased it is that it got exceptionally high points from Parker--95 or 96. And, the ratings from Cellar Tracker actually don't seem all over the map to me. That all those people would taste it and end up agreeing that it's in the excellent-to-outstanding range of 90-95 points is in fact fairly consistent. We all know how the company, the event, the food and your own mood can impact your perceptions. I'm only surprised to see it described as a "pop and pour". Boy, that's now how the wine showed here 12-18 months ago.

Here's Andrea Robinson's notes on the wine; my experience was pretty much the same. She knows a great deal about Australian wine -- she represented Penfolds at tastings for a number of years.

Regards, Bob

YALUMBA “THE SIGNATURE” CABERNET/SHIRAZ, BAROSSA 2002

Get this wine. That was the bottom line in my tasting notes for this wine. I also wrote, “Grange-like without the Bourbon,” meaning the wine reminded me incredibly of Penfolds Grange, Australia’s most famous, and one of its most expensive, reds. “Without the Bourbon” refers to the fact that this wine, while receiving a comparable oak regimen to Grange of 22 months in American and French oak barrels, wears its “oakiness” with greater subtlety, which I like. It is 60% Cabernet, 40% Shiraz, and 100% impressive.

Although I would unequivocally describe the raspberry fruit as “huge” and voluptuous, the wine is not overly alcoholic and cough syrup-like the way so many big Aussie reds are today. Instead the fruit is borne up by a nice velvety-chewy tannic structure, and interlaced with both pepper/cumin savory, and cinnamon clove sweet spices. It is a real pleasure to drink now with a hearty dish, but will also age well for a good ten years. The touch of bottle age on it now has already begun to introduce subtle elements of tobacco and smoke that will develop further into leather and caramel, with time. The fennel seeds in this dish are the secret to its particular flavor affinity with the wine.


SPRING LAMB STEW Serves 8

2 t kosher salt
1 t freshly ground black pepper
¾ t fennel seeds, crushed
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 lb cubed lamb stew meat
2 T vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, minced
2 sprigs parsley, plus minced parsley for garnish (optional)
½ t dried thyme
1 ½ cup beef broth, plus more if needed
½ cup dry red wine (it is ok to use leftover wine)
6 carrots, sliced into coins
2 stalks celery hearts, sliced ¼ inch thick
4 large shallots, diced
2 cup frozen peas

In a shallow bowl, stir together the salt, pepper, fennel seeds and flour. Add the lamb cubes and toss well. Place a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the lamb cubes in batches and cook, turning for 10 to 12 minutes, until browned on all sides. Add the garlic, parsley, bay leaf, thyme, broth and wine. Decrease the heat to low, cover and simmer for 2 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding more broth if needed. Add the carrots, celery and shallots, season with additional salt and pepper if needed, and continue cooking, covered, for another 20 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Add the peas and cook for another 10 minutes. Serve hot garnished with parsley, if desired.