Wine Spectator's Grand Tour went on the road to Atlantic City, Chicago and Las Vegas this year. Janet and I joined two friends at the Las Vegas edition, and we all had a great time. One of the Davids "reserved" a table, and Janet and he stayed there all night, sharing chairs with passer-bys from time to time. The other David and I tasted wines, and brought back lovely examples for Janet and David to enjoy. There was plenty of food and I was amazed to see long, long lines for the roast bison -- people waited half an hour for a few slices. I suppose they wanted to squeeze every penny out of the $200 admission fee. As my tasting notes show, I focused on the wine, and was able to spend a minute or more with over 180 very good -- or at least -- very interesting wines during the three hour event.
[People complained about the $200 entry fee, but there were great wines, pours were generous, the food was excellent, folks were friendly and fun to talk with, and as a fringe benefit, we got an excellent rate at the Venetian. Well worth the entry fee if you enjoy events like this.]
The buffet tables offered excellent breads, cheeses, bison, salmon, crab raviolis, pastas, fruit and vegetables, and Fiji Water was freely available all night. There was a free tasting glass and a nice cardboard bag for carrying the glass home.
Tables were well spaced, there were about 1,500 wine lovers in attendance [I had ticket number 1047 purchased four weeks in advance], and despite some crowding for a few minutes at some tables, it was easy to get to every table over the course of the evening. The program was printed on 8 1/2" by 4 1/4" smooth light card board stock, spiral bound, and heavy enough so it was easy to take notes with no additional support. A page was devoted to each wine giving the name of the winery, the address, the web address, the name of the owner, the name of the winemaker, a small photo of the label, and the name of the wine, with room for tasting notes. I would have liked to see the name of the importer and the winery's description of their wine on offer -- the first would have helped experienced note takers like myself, and the second would have helped the many beginning wine lovers who attended. (I was able to talk to over 50 people from all over the country, and many were just beginning to learn about wine.) There were 215 pages in the program, each devoted to one wine, but I wasn't able to find a couple of wines that were listed.
One other suggestion to WS: there should be many more small tables, each with four chairs, around the outside of the exhibition area. There were about 20 tables with 40 chairs, but 20 tables was simply not enough for all the guests, and the Venetian's ballroom had plenty of room for dozens more. People were forced to sit on the floor and eat, which detracted from their enjoyment of the evening. But, this event was much more fun than the Grand Tastings I've attended in New York City, where the popular stands are so crowded it can take ten minutes to get a pour, and then one is jostled around so much it isn't fun to taste or possible to write notes. None of those problems arose in this venue.
The room was well lit, there were plenty of white backgrounds in the room, including on the program itself, so my color/hue notes are more accurate than they have been at other tastings. My notes are obviously impressions, not analytical tasting notes. But they provide me with a very nice working copy draft for my future study of many of the wines -- I plan to spend a bit of time studying Barolo, for example, and the several examples on offer make a very nice starting point.
Chris Regina, at Winecentric reviewed the Atlantic City edition of this tasting; his notes and commentary appear at Winecentric. I've incorporated Chris' tasting notes in my set with his permission -- he mentioned only his favorite wines. While we had different impressions of a couple of wines, I agree with all of Chris' comments on the mechanics of the tasting itself.
Here's Chris' note for a wine that sounds interesting, but wasn't in the program or on the floor as far as I could determine:
Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 2003 - Made from 250 year old vines that look more like trees than vines. Wonderfully unique and packed with truckloads of powdered cinnamon. [Palm Bay Importers I believe. There's a nice description of the area at http://www.palmbayimports.com/xq/asp/VI ... rands.html $50 to $60.]
And, here is Chris' tasting note on one of the Ports; I rarely taste port at large tastings -- they tend to make it impossible for me to taste other wines, and in any event, it's hard for me to taste more than one or two ports:
Ramos Pinto Tawny Port 20 Year Old - Amber color with nuts and oak on the nose and pure hazelnuts on the finish. I went back and ended the night with this one and left smelling the glass on the way home.
***
Wine Spectator carried a report on the event written by Thomas Matthews, which I've deleted from this report for the reasons discussed below.
***
The Davids, Janet and I capped the evening listening to Bill Maher present a generous hour and a half of conservative bashing at the Hard Rock Cafe.
Regards, Bob
Key:
WC = Chris Regina, Winecentric.
Wine Searcher Pro = WSP
I use stars mainly for searching out wines I like from my diary, but they provide some indication of how much I liked a particular wine:
1 star = undrinkable;
2 stars = ok in a pinch;
3 stars = buy if nothing different or better appears;
4 stars = a really good wine or a really fascinating wine;
5 stars = a wonderful wine.
Tonight's tally:
5 stars -- 21 wines
4 - 4+ stars -- 101 wines
3 - 3+ stars -- 53 wines
2 - 2+ stars -- 8 wines
Total 183 wines tasted; 32 not tasted.
[Note: the search and replace function isn't working exactly right on my word processor -- my only way of counting tasting notes using Not Tab Light and Word -- there are five wines in limbo from a statistical point of view -- but this is a pretty good estimate of what happened by the numbers. These discrepancies used to bother me enormously, but after writing over 35,000 tasting notes, one gets a little blasé about a few numbers plus or minus.]
ARGENTINA
Achâval-Ferrer Quimera Vino Tinto Mendoza Argentina 2004. Roberto Cipresso, winemaker. Blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Deep red color, deep hue, intense aroma of fruit with mineral notes, very good fruit and spice tastes, medium mouth finish, excellent balance with fine tannins and good acidity, long finish with excellent fruit, mineral and spice notes. 5*. Remarkable. And this wine sells for about $22 in northern New Jersey.
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Reserva Vina Hormigas Reserva Mendoza Argentina 2005. Attilio Pagli and Alberto Antonnini, winemakers. 13.3% alcohol. [Hormigas = ants.] The winery says that 2005 was an excellent year for Malbec. http://www.altoslashormigas.com/ Ruby red color, deep hue, very good fruit aroma and taste, hints of pleasant sweetness, light tannins and acidity in excellent balance, long finish, very satisfying, and it reminded me of an Auxerrois from Cahors. Very pretty and a good QPR. 4*. About $18.
Bodega Catena Zapata Catena Alta Malbec Mendoza Argentina 2003. Jose Galante, winemaker. http://www.catenawines.com/ One oddity from the website; it indicates that the vintage was 2001 but the bottle is labeled 2003 -- typo? 14.2% alcohol; 18 months in French oak. Red color, medium hue, good fruit aroma and taste, quite sweet and a bit cloying, medium mouth feel, relatively short finish, pretty enough but a little boring. 3*. Around $40. [WA notes shows me how little I understand wine: "Rated: 94. Flashy yet seductive. Vivid purple and blue fruits are layered with exotic mocha and spice notes. Long and powerful, but creamy and pure on the finish, with fine acidity stretching it out. Drink now through 2011. 2,500 cases made."
] [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "This 100% Malbec 94 PT stunner pops out of the glass with creamy blueberry and blackberry. Wow!"] [I'm always fascinated at how different people react to the same wine -- of course the three tasters quoted here are tasting different bottles -- but this is a good example of why it's always best to trust your own palate.]
Cheval des Andes Vistalba Argentina 2002. Pierre Lurton, winemaker. I hate websites that give me messages like this: "You don't have the latest version of Macromedia Flash Player. Vous n'avez pas la dernière version de Macromedia Flash Player." In fact, after five minutes with a fast connection, the Flash Player still wasn't loaded. The wine was 4* according to my notes, but I'm not going to encourage rudeness to winelovers by describing the wine further.
Bodegas y Vinedos O. Fournier Alfa Crux Uco Valley Mendoza Argentina 2002. Jose Mario Spisso, winemaker. http://ofournier.com/web/ ("The names of the "Alfa Crux" and "B Crux" wines are based on the stars of the Southern Cross.") 60% Tempranillo, 35% Malbec, 5% Merlot. 14.4% alcohol. Red color, medium to dark hue, interesting aroma and tastes of fruit, good spice, medium mouth feel, relatively long finish with fruit and spice notes. Promising, but not for me. 3*. $40.
Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Mendoza Afincado Argentina 2003. http://www.terrazasdelosandes.com Manuel Louzada winemaker. Red color, medium hue, good fruit and coffee aromas and tastes, long finish, nicely balanced, drinking very nicely now. Nice enough, especially from Argentina. 3*. $35.
Trapiche Malbec Mendoza Vina Victorio Coletto Argentina 2004. http://www.trapiche.com.ar Daniel Pi, winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, lovely dried fruit and cedar aromas, sweetish tastes of dried fruit, spice and cedar, medium mouth feel, smooth tannins, long complex finish. A very nice Malbec. 4*. $35
AUSTRALIA
d'Arenberg The Laughing Mapie Shiraz Viognier McLaren Vale Australia 2005. Chester Osborn, winemaker. http://darenberg.com/ Kookaburra are black and white birds; the wine is a blend of black and white grapes, and the winemakers daughters got naming rights. [Can you believe two Aussie kids can't pronounce "Kookaburra"?] Dark purple color, deep hue, good berry aromas and tastes, mild tannins, medium finish. OK and not too oaky but it didn't show me much tonight. 3*. About $20. [As a cheap skate, I'll probably buy a bottle or two and then laud this stuff to the skies.
]
Barossa Valley Estate E&E Black Pepper Shiraz Barossa Valley Australia 2003. 14.0% alcohol. Stuart Bourne, winemaker. http://www.bve.com.au/ [Not much of a site, frankly, unless you want their email address.] Deep red color, deep hue, intense aroma and tastes of fruit, chocolate, berries and earth, strong tannins, predominantly oak, long finish. If you like these big Aussie wines, this one is supposedly cultish and in demand. Maybe ok for the investor? Not for me, but hey, it's your money folks. 4*. $80.
Wolf Blass Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Black Label South Australia 2002. Chris Hatcher, chief winemaker. http://www.wolfblass.com Deep red color, deep hue, berries and cherries, with fine tannins, medium mouth feel, long finish. Seemed well evolved but not very exciting. 3*. $65.
Green Point Winery Shiraz Yarra Valley Reserve Australia 2004. http://www.greenpointwines.com Tony Jordan, James Gosper and Matt Steele, winemakers. http://www.greenpointwines.com Deep red color, deep hue, intense aromas and tastes, long finish, big, big wine, ok if you like the style, NOT for me, 3*. $25. [The price won't tempt me; I'd enjoy a Yellow Tail more.]
Groom Wines Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills Australia 2006. http://www.groomwines.com Daryl Groom, winemaker. Lenswood appellation. WS's take: "Australia's # 1 Top Value Sauvignon Blanc - Groom Adelaide Hills 90 points Lithe and aromatic, with juicy nectarine, lime, mineral and floral herb flavors competing for attention. Refreshing finish." Harvey Steiman got this exactly right to my taste. 4*. $18 in US from winery; around $12 in NJ; great QPR. Gotta search this one out.
Hardys Shiraz South Australia Eileen Hardy 2001. http://www.hardys.com.au Peter Dawson winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, complex fruit and earth aromas and taste, full mouth feel, long finish. Big Aussie Shiraz; very nice of its style. 3* for me, but if you like Big Aussies, this one deserves a much higher score. $90.
Leasingham Shiraz Clare Valley Classic Clare Australia 2005. http://www.leasingham-wines.com.au Kerri Thompson, winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, intense fruit and spice aroma and taste, medium mouth feel, long finish. Beautiful example of an Aussie Shiraz. 4*+. Price???
Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series Margaret River Australia. http://www.leeuwinestate.com.au Paul Atwood and Damian North, winemakers. 400 cases. Yellow color, clear hue, lovely fruit aroma and taste, smoky notes, excellent acidity, mineral notes, great structure, long finish -- not at all oaky even though it spent 18 months in new French oak. Delicious. 4*+ $60 at Costco. [Why do winemakers/business folks pour a 400 case wine? It makes no sense to me as a business matter, and yet a Spanish winemaker did the same thing. I asked him why, and couldn't get a useful answer.]
Peter Lehmann Wines Clancy's Barossa Australia 2004. Shiraz 48%, Cabernet Sauvignon 42% and Merlot 15%. 14.5% alcohol. Andrew Wigan, winemaker. A very pretty example of a Barossa blend, understated and underoaked. A perfect beginner's wine and a great QPR for OF's like me. 4*. $13.
Greg Norman Cabernet Merlot Limestone Coast Victoria Australia. http://www.shark.com/gnestates Andrew Hales winemaker. A pretty blend at this price point, but oaky and a bit sweet -- very smooth, nice cedar notes. 2*+. $15.
Penfolds Shiraz South Australia St. Henri 2002. http://www.penfolds.com Peter Gago winemaker. This was one of the nicest St. Henri vintages I've tasted. Deep red color, deep hue, intense dark fruit and spice, good acidity and tannins in great blance, long interesting finish. 4*+. $40.
Rosemount Estates Rosemount Syrah McLaren Vale Balmoral Australia 2002. http://www.rosemountestates.com Charles Whish winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, very good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, medium mouth feel, long finish with spice notes. 3*+. $45. Where did Charles get that last name? "Whish" -- ineffective cricket bowler? Man, I don't get it -- he's hitting like my Yankees. But the wine shows promise.
Two Hands Wines Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella's Garden Australia 25. http://www.twohandswines.com Matthew Wenk winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, intense aromas and tastes of cherry and plum flavors, very good spice, mineral and mint notes, medium mouth feel, long intense finish with fruit, spice, mint and mineral notes. Lovely wine. 5*. $40. I have to search this one out; really there was almost no oak and a great deal of subtlty. A very very pretty wine.
CALIFORNIA
Carneros California
Artesa Winery Pinot Noir Carneros Estate Reserve California 2005. Dave Dobson, winemaker. http://www.artesawinery.com 14.5% alcohol; 2400 cases. Light red color, medium hue, good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, smoke and mocha notes, medium mouth feel, good acidity, pleasant drinking with a medium to long finish. 4*. Around $40.
Etude Heirloom Pinot Noir Carneros California 2004. Jon Priest winemaker. http://www.etudewines.com/ 975 cases. Pretty red color, medium hue, very good berry aromas with hints of clove and cinnamon, good to very good fruit tastes with spice and earth notes, a bit of oak but rich and smooth tannins, very good structure, medium mouth feel, long finish with strong berry notes. 4*. $80 at winery.
Monterey County California
Chalone Vineyards Pinot Noir Chalone Estate Monterey County California 2005. Diageo Chateau and Estate Wine, owner. http://www.chalonevineyard.com/ 14.4% alcohol. I believe this vineyard was planted in 1997. Pretty dark red color, medium hue, lovely aroma and taste of fruit, spice and earthen notes, soft tannins, light acidity, very good balance, medium length finish. Remarkably forward and delicious; easy drinking. 4*. $35.
Napa Valley California
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Blends
Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve Napa Valley California 2003. Joel Aiken, winemaker. http://www.bvwines.com/ 14.5% alcohol. Deep red color, deep hue, good fruit, spice and earthen notes, firm tannins, good balance, full mouth feel, long finish. A pretty example of a California Cab. 4*. $95.
Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley California 2003. Rob Hunter, winemaker. 14.5% alcohol. Deep red color, deep hue, very good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, smooth tannins, hints of sage and cedar, long, complex finish. 4*. $55.
Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection Napa Valley California 2004. Chuck Wagner, owner and winemaker. http://www.caymus.com/ [a website with just the basic facts, ma'am! Name, address, phone number. These guys must have a long waiting list.] Deep red color, deep hue, very rich fruit aroma and taste, hints of licorice and cassis, full mouth feel, very good balance, great length with interesting notes, stuffings to last a long time, but drinking very well now. 4*. Around $75 although as a cult wine with a Parker 96, auction prices are apparently much higher.
Chimney Rock Winery Elevage Stags Leap District Napa Valley California 2004. Elizabeth Vianna, winemaker. http://chimneyrock.com/ Red color, deep hue, shy aroma and good fruit and spice taste, mild tannins, medium finish. Rather simple. 3*. $35
Diamond Creek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Red Rock Terrace Napa Valley California 2003. Boots Brounstein owner; Phil Steinschriber winemaker. http://www.diamondcreekvineyards.com/ Disappointing: dry and austere, definitely closed down, at least to my taste, but perhaps there not much home. Very tannic. 2*. Around $150. This would be a wine for contrarians to buy -- if they disagreed with my incisive analysis.
Flora Springs Winery and Vineyards Trilogy Napa Valley California 2003. Ken Deis, winemaker. http://www.florasprings.com/ 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. Deep red color, deep hue, very good Cabernet Sauvignon fruit aromas and tastes with spice and green pepper notes, medium mouth feel, long finish. 3*+. $60 at winery.
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 20th Anniversary Napa Valley Carneros California 2004. http://www.grgich.com Miljenko Grgich, owner and winemaker. 14.3% alcohol. I really enjoyed this wine and have respected "Mike" Grgich for many years. [He won my heart by signing a book on the Paris Tasting one evening, even though he said it would "open the flood gates" to other fans. Maybe because we are both kind of OFs?] His tasting note: "Released in 2007, this limited-edition wine celebrates the 30th anniversary of our winery. For this special wine we hand selected our best lots, crafting a rich, intensely concentrated Chardonnay. A harmonious blend of Granny Smith apple, hazelnut, acacia flower and lychee nut aromas are supported by the wine's firm structure and creamy texture. This is a full-bodied Chardonnay with a lingering aftertaste that echoes in your mouth long after the wine is gone." Lovely wine. Worth searching out. 5*. $73 at the winery.
Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley California 2004. http://www.hallwines.com Richard Batchelor, winemaker. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot; 14.5% alcohol. Deep red color, deep hue, good fruit and spice, lots of oak to my taste, medium mouth feel, long finish. 3*. $35 at winery. Pass.
Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Trailside Vineyard California 2001. http://www.heitzcellar.com/ 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.4% alcohol. Deep red color, deep hue, lovely aromas of berries with cedar notes, very good fruit and spice flavors with cedar notes, medium mouth feel, tight tannins, long finish, great aromas in the empty glass, particularly the cedar notes. A very big California cab. 4*. $70
Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve California 2003. http://www.robertmondaviwinery.com Genevieve Janssens, winemaker. WS 87, WA 94, IWC 93. Deep red color, deep hue, very good aroma and taste, very good balance, long finish. Quite a variety of ratings, but it seemed pretty good to me. 4*. $80 in New Jersey.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia Napa Valley California 2003. http://www.jpvwines.com, craig williams, winemaker. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest equal parts Malbec and Merlot. Ruby red color, medium hue, good aroma of fruit, spice, chocolate, very good fruit and chocolate tastes, medium mouth feel, long finish with some fruit and spice notes. I've enjoyed several vintages of this, one of my favorite wine, much more than I enjoyed this one. 3*+. $125.
Pine Ridge Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Napa Valley California 2003. http://www.pineridgewinery.com. Stacy Clark winemaker. Red color, deep hue, cherry, chocolate cedar aromas, good fruit and berry taste with smoke notes, good tannins, long complex finish with especially nice cedar notes. Drinking very well now but should last for years. 4*. $55.
St. Clement Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Oroppas Napa Valley California 2004. http://www.stclement.com Danielle Cyrot winemaker winemaker notes: "Enticing aromas of blueberry jam, cherry, raspberry, chocolate, clove and a floral back note are the introduction to this elegantly lush wine, as ripe flavors of black cherry, raspberry compote greet the palate. Rich coffee notes mingle with bittersweet chocolate and brown spices for a long, complex finish supported by structured, yet velvety tannins." All I can add is that it has a deep red color, deep hue, and was a very pretty Cab. 4*+. $40. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "I've had this wine on several occasions but this time was an extra special treat. The table had cherry Hershey's Kisses to pair with it. Anyone who doubts that red wine can enhance chocolate will be disproven on the spot. A rewarding experience."]
Turnbull Wine Cellars Napa Valley California Black Label 2004. http://www.turnbullwines.com Jon Engelskirger winemaker. I found this wine very closed down tonight -- I was very surprised they showed it. The aromas in the glass showed some promise, but I rated it only 3*. A more favorable review: "95 Points and Three Stars in the Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wines: "Real expectation and excitement are raised by this well-made youngster's concentrated aromas of cassis, smoke, mint, dark soils and dried cherries, and its expansive, deeply-filled flavors fully live up to promise. Already praiseworthy both for its real range of character, its luscious fruit and for the way its many pieces fit together, the wine is solidly structured and shows no shortage of youthfully gruff tannin. It is built to get better for a number of years, and it comes with a recommendation for five to eight years of cellaring." (04/07) This sumptuous Cabernet was aged for 16 months in 35% new French oak barrels, which adds roasty aromas to the otherwise fruity background of cassis and blackberry. The wine is dark in color and fragrance, with a somewhat loftier palate impression and a long, complex finish. Includes 5% cabernet franc, 3% merlot and 2% syrah." $40. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "I've had this before at other tastings. It still impresses me with its creamy fruit."]
Chardonnay
Hess Collection Winery Chardonnay Napa Valley California 2004. http://www.hesscollection.com/ Dave Guffy, winemaker. I'm not sure if there is a difference between the Hess Collection and the Hess Collection Select which tends to be cheaper. This sample did not have "Select" on the label. A pretty good beginner's Chardonnay, but too sweet and oaky for my taste. 3*. $10 to $20.
Newton Vineyard Chardonnay Unfiltered Napa Valley California 2004. Stephen Carrier, wine maker. http://www.newtonvineyard.com. Golden yellow color, clear hue, big California fruit with good acidity and a long finish. Too much oak for me. 3*. $35.
Merlot
Beringer Vineyards Single Vineyard Merlot Bancroft Ranch Vineyard Napa Valley California 2003. Ed Sbragia, winemaster. http://www.beringer.com One of my favoirt wines from California, drinking beautifully tonight. Should develop beautifully. 4*+. [Somehow Sbragia almost always describes his wines the way I taste them: "We've been making a vineyard-designated Bancroft Ranch Merlot since the 1987 vintage when I began to see what Merlot could really offer when planted in the right place. Bancroft Ranch is a very special vineyard that produces grapes with amazing concentration of flavors, tannins and structure. The 2003 Howell Mountain Merlot bursts with cola berry, plum, cocoa and kirsch-like cherry aromas that lead into a rich ripe black fruit flavors with hints of cedar and roasted coffee beans. It's got a bright acidity that is balanced by richness, ripe tannins and a very satisfying finish."]
Markham Vineyards Merlot Reserve Napa Valley California 2001. Kimberlee Nicholls winemaker. http://www.markhamvineyards.com Deep red color, deep hue, very good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, very rich, smooth tannins, long, complex finish, drinking well tonight. 4*. $42 at vineyard.
Paso Robles California
L'Aventure Winery Stephan Estate Cuvee Paso Robles California 2005. Stephan Asseo, winemaker. http://aventurewine.com/ 52% Syrah, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot. Ruby red color, deep hue, intense aroma and tastes, medium mouth feel, long finish. A bit over powering and not really pleasant tonight. In fairness, the winemaker reccomends corking half the bottle and letting it rest for two days; he promises you will pick up "licorice, litchi nut, acacia, pomegranate and so much more!" Maybe so. 3*. $75.
Justin Vineyards & Winery Paso Robles Savant California 2004. http://www.jasinwine.com Kevin Sass winemaker. Kevin Sass's notes on blending Savant are fascinating, a very useful introduction to the Paso Robles AVA. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon; 50% Syrah. Deep red color, almost black, deep hue, intense aromas of berries and plums with spice notes and some interesting earthen notes, very good fruit tastes with berry and cherries, with cedar notes, medium mouth feel, soft acidity, firm tannins, very closed down and very concentrated -- the winery suggests aging for three to five years -- and the long interesting finish and especially the rich and complex aromas in the empty glass suggests a delightful future. 5* for future drinking; not much pleasure just now. Price ???
Russian River Valley California
Gallo Family Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley Laguna Vineyard 2004. http://www.gallosonoma.com Gina Gallo, winemaker. I don't know why I try these wines -- hope springing eternally? Nice if you like the style. Too oaky and sweet for me. 2*. $17
Siduri Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Keefer Ranch Vineyard California 2005. http://www.siduri.com Adam and Dianna Lee, owners and winemakers. Pretty red color, deep hue, a lovely Pinot Noir. 5*. I like the understated winemaker notes: "Winemakers notes: The aromatics are reminiscent of a stroll thru a flower garden with red raspberry fruits highlighting the upfront nature of this wine. On the finish, the wine shows good levels of natural acidity (a trademark of the 2005 vintage) and a long finish that cries out for some food." [I drank a glass at the end of the evening with vegetables, salmon and a bit of bison -- a great food wine.] $50 to $60, often limited quantities.
Santa Lucia Highlands California
Novy Family Wines Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands Rosella's Vinyard California 2005. Adam and Dianna Lee and the Novy Family, winemakers. [Pretty impressive number of winemakers: Adam & Dianna (Novy) Lee of Siduri Wines and Dianna's parents, Adolph & Rose Marie Novy, and brothers and sisters-in-law, David & Angela, Bryan & Kathy, and Steven & Marie Novy.
] http://www.novyfamilywines.com Brilliant red color, medium hue, aromas of berries, spice and cream, very good to excellent fruit, spice and berry tastes, excellent balance with pleasant tannins, long complex finish, wonderful aroma in the empty glass. 4*+. $35
Santa Rita Hills California
Foley Estates Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Rancho Santa Rosa California 2005. Alan Phillips, winemaker http://www.foleyestates.com/ 14.3% alcohol. Deep red color, medium hue, very good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, quite tannic, but fairly well balanced, long finish with fruit, mushroom and earthen notes. 4*. $30.
Sonoma County California
Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cepages Sonoma County California 2003. Margo Van Staaveren, winemaker. http://www.chateaustjean.com/ I wish I could write like this: "Excellent- Chateau St. Jean's flagship Cinq Cépages has become a Sonoma County classic... The wine is frankly gorgeous and absolutely serious, bursting with vivid and vibrant cassis, black cherry and plum fruit that feels sifted with smoke, dried spice and glittering minerals that are enmeshed, in turn, in polished oak and chewy, grainy tannins. That tannin manifests itself in wheatmeal and walnut shell elements that bring some asperity and austerity to the wine from mid-palate back through the finish. A perfect wine for a grilled, medium-rare rib-eye steak, hot and crusty from the hickory coals. Koeppelwine.com, March 2007." My handwritten notes: "DR MH A++ T++ AG TG LF 4*." I'm always prepared to hate this wine, but often like it, but at this price???? $75 MSP, but often available at $50 or so.
Ferrari-Carano Vineyard and Winer Prevail Back Forty Sonoma County California 2003. Aaron Piotter and Sarah Quider, winemakers. http://www.ferrari-carano.com/ 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, 3% Cabernet Franc; 14.9% alcohol. Deep red color, deep hue, pretty aromas of berries and fruit, good fruit tastes with some spice notes, mild tannins, medium length finish. 3*. $80 at the winery.
Landmark Vineyards Chardonnay Sonoma Valley Damaris Reserve 2004. Eric Stern and Greg Stach, winemakers. http://www.landmarkwine.com 79% Sangiacomo Vineyards - Carneros 21% Frostwatch Vineyard - Bennett Valley. The beginning of the winemakers' tasting note says it all for me: "Toasty, creamy vanillin, roasted grain and oak aromas ... " It's probably a very nice example of this style of Chardonnay, but not for me. 2*. $30.
Sparkling Wines [California]
Domaine Chandon étoile Napa Valley California NV. Tom Tiburzi, winemaker. http://www.chandon.com/ Delicate with ginger, spice and rose aromas, firm acidity, medium sized bubbles, pretty and smooth and rich after an aggressive initial attack. 4*. Around $25 in New Jersey.
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves Brut Carneros Cuvee Late Disgorged Carneros California 1997. http://www.gloriaferrer.com Bob Iantosca, winemaker. Pinot Noir (58%) and Chardonnay (42%). This is a lovely sparkling wine, restrained aromas at the outset but growing in complexity and richness over time with lovely fruit notes, complex and refreshing, long finish. Lovely juice. 4*+. $18. Great QPR.
Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley L'Ermitage California 2000. Arnaud Weyrich winemaker. Pretty aromas of fruit and yeasty notes, good mousse, firm acidity. 3*. $30.
CHILE
Almaviva Puente Alto Maipo Valley Chile 2003. Tod Victor Mostero, winemaker. http://www.almavivawinery.com/ Deep red color, deep hue, good fruit and spice aroma and taste with earth, cedar and chocolate notes, medium mouth feel, harsh tannins which may smooth out with lots of time, long, somewhat graceless finish. Not for me. 3*. $65. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "lots of cedar and minerals in this 95 PT Chilean beauty."]
Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta Chile 2004. Michel Rolland, Jacques Begarie and Andrea Leon, winemakers. http://www.casalapostolle.com/ 84% Carmenere-Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby red color, deep hue, restrained aroma of fruit, spice and a bit of earth, good to very good fruit tastes, good balance, long finish with a number of fruit and spice notes. I just can't cotton to this wine; there's a spoofulated taste I can't identify. 3*. $60.
Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Don Melchor Chile 2003. Enrique Tirado winemaker. http://www.conchaytoro.com/ 95% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Cabernet Franc. 14.5% alcohol. Cherry red color, medium hue, good fruit and spice aromas and tastes, medium mouth feel, long finish, very little aroma in empty glass. May have been closed down tonight; WS liked it much better than I did. 3*. $60; $99 MSP. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "One of the best Cabs from Chile ever made. 96 PTS Wine Spectator."]
Montes Alpha M Santa Cruz Chile 2004. Aurelio Montes, winemaker. http://www.monteswines.com Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Merlot (10%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Deep red color, deep hue, powerful cab aromas and tastes, closed now, but showing great promise for the future, incredible aromas in the empty glass. Too young now; may age into a great wine. 4*. $70.
FRANCE
Alsace
Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Kitterlé 2002 France. Alain Freberger winemaker. http://www.domaines-schlumberger.com Yellow color, pale hue, attractive aromas of lemons and apples with some light floral notes, some pepper and hints of honey, very good fruit tastes, full mouth feel, long finish, pretty wine. 3*+. $35.
Bordeaux
Château Angelus Saint Emilion Bordeaux France 2004. Hubert de Bouard de LaForest, winemaker. http://www.chateau-angelus.com/ 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple color, deep hue, rich berry aroma, rich, complex fruit with chocolate and cherry notes, medium mouth feel, long finish, excellent tannins, excellent balance, drinking beautifully now, but showing promise more for the future. 4*+. Around $100. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "Amazing how well this is drinking right now. It is so young and approachable. Really impressive."]
Château Branaire-Ducru St. Julien Bordeaux France 2003. Jean-Dominique Videau, winemaker. http://www.branaire.com/ Deep purple color, deep hue, complex aromas of berries, chocolate, minerals, mushrooms and more, very good fruit and spice tastes, medium mouth feel, low acidity, good tannins, good balance, long complex finish. Drinking very well now. 4*. $90.
Château Cos d'Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux France 2002. Domaine Reybier owner. http://www.cosestournel.com/ This wine is developing beautifully -- in five years it promises to be seamless and wonderful. Drinking very well for its age tonight; it had been in decanter for two hours. 4*+ $75.
Les Forts de Latour Pauillac Bordeaux France 2003. http://www.chateau-latour.com/index.html Florence Rogers-Pinault, public relations; winemaker not identified! A very pretty Bordeaux second label, drinking beautifully now but with the stuffings to last for years. 4*+. Around $80 to $100.
Château Giscours Margaux Bordeaux France 2000. Jacques Pelissie, winemaker. http://www.chateau-giscours.fr. Parker wrote that this is the best Giscours for 25 years, and it sure was drinking well tonight. Very deep color, deep hue, complex aromas and tastes, low acidity, long pure finish. Great aroma in the empty glass. May be a sleeper from a very big vintage. 4*+ $60 to $80.
Château Gruaud-Larose St.-Julien Bordeaux France. George Pauli, winemaker. http://www.gruaud-larose.com/ Deep red color, deep hue, interesting aroma with some fruit but lots of leather, earth and smoke, good to very good fruit, medium mouth feel, long complex finish, great aroma in the empty glass. Very pretty especially at this price and drinking well now. 4*. $40 to $50. Good QPR if you want a mid-level Bordeaux.
Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux France 2004. http://www.haut-brion.com Jean-Philippe Delmas, estate manager. JeanpPhilippe Demas, estate manager. http://www.haut-brion.com/home/en/ [I can't taste this wine without remembering: Royal Oak Tavern, London, on April 10, 1663, Samuel Pepys: "There I drank a sort of French wine called Ho-Bryan which hath a good and most particular taste which I never before encountered....." Great writer, poor speller -- I aspire to the first, but achieve the second.
] Ruby red color, deep hue, ... and there I get lost -- I was totally baffled by this wine -- it seemed sweet -- too sweet for such a young Bordeaux -- but lots of complicated aromas and tastes and a long, long finish -- lovely aromas in the empty glass. Too much complexity to even form an impression.... Too youthful for me to judge, really, but ruby red color, deep hue, dense aromas and tastes of berries, fruit and minerals, firm tannins, very tight, full mouth feel, long finish, very pretty aromas in the empty glass. Gotta try this wine again with more time in the bottle and more time for me to enjoy it. 4*+. $180 or so.
Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux France 1999. Charles Chevallier, winemaker. http://www.lafite.com Dramatically better than at a tasting three years ago. Delicious. 5*. $250 plus.
Château Lagrange St. Julien-Beychevelle Bordeaux France. Bruno Eynard, winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, restrained fruit and chocolate aromas and tastes, very tannic, concentrated, long finish, aromas some promise in the empty glass, needs much more time. 3*. $30.
Château Latour Pauillac Bordeaux France 2001. http://www.chateau-latour.com Florence Rogers-Pinault, public relations. Remarkably fruit forward for such a young Latour -- a great wine drinking very well tonight. 5*. $300.
Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien Bordeaux France 2000. http://www.leoville-barton.com Jacques Boissenot, winemaker. This wine gets fantastic reviews from WA and WS, but it is so tight and closed I really couldn't get much out of it. And, waiting ten years to get just a bit of pleasure makes no sense in my world. It did have a lovely aroma in the empty glass, so the commentators are undoubtedly right. WA96. For me tonight, 2*. $140.
Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bordeaux France 2004. Jean Michel Cazes, owner and winemaker. http://www.lynchbages.com/ 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Bright red, deep hue, restrained fruit aromas, hints of violets, good fruit tastes with oak notes, medium mouth feel, long single note finish. 3*. $75.
Château Margaux Margaux Premier Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux France 1999. http://www.chateau-margaux.com Paul Pontallier winemaker. This wine is drinking much better than the sample I had two years ago. Long lingering finish with very nice fruit notes. 5*. $200.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux France 2004. http://www.haut-brion.com Jean-Philippe Delmas, estate manager. [Loved the spirit of the young lady who poured this wine for us; shw was not at all intimidated by the first wine.
] 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 55% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc. Ruby red color, deep hue, violet aromas with soft fruit notes, very good fruit tastes with mineral notes, medium mouth feel, spicy and fruity on the finish. Fun to drink -- or was it the young lady? 4*. $100 but prices all over the lot on WSP.
Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac Bordeaux France. Philipppe Dhalluin, winemaker. http://www.bpdr.com Beautiful ruby color, deep hue, wonderful aromas of blacberry, mint, minerals and earth -- at least in the empty glass -- very tight in the mouth tonight, although this promises to be a wonderful wine in ten years. 4*+. [Based primarly on that aroma in the empty glass, frankly.] $150 or so.
Château les Ormes de Pez St.-Estephe Bordeaux France 2003. Jean-Michel Cazes, owner and winemaker. Purple color, deep hue, good fruit and licorice aromas and tastes, medium mouth feel, soft tannins and acidity, long, smooth, fairly simple finish. 3*. $25.
Château Palmer Margaux Bourdeaux France 1988. http://www.chateau-palmer.com Red color, deep hue, restrained fruit and spice tastes, mild tannins, medium long finish with good fruit and spice notes. 3*. $150 to $175.
Château Petit-Village Pomerol Bordeaux France 2003. http://www.petit-village.com Serge Ley, Technical Director. 65% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc. Deep red color, deep hue, very pretty aromas of berries, chocolate and spice, very good tastes of fruit and chocolate with some oakiness, medium mouth feel, good tannins, needing a bit more evolution but still quite delicious, long interesting finish. 4*+. $100
Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron Pauillac Bordeaux France 1997. The program called for the 2003, but what a great substitution; Janet and David loved it with the roast bison. Drinking very well tonight. http://www.pichonlongueville.com Jean-Rene Matignon, technical director. Deep red color, deep hue, very good aromas and tastes, very smooth with many grace notes. 4*. $60. [An amusing note -- David and I met a father/son combo from Madison -- seven degrees from the University of Wisconsin at Madison among the four of us.]
Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac Bordeaux France 2004. http://www.pontet-canet.com Jean-Michel Comme, winemaker and regisseur. [What's a "régisseur"? I suppose it's similar to the régisseur in a French or Russian theater -- i.e. a "director".] Deep purple color, deep hue, restrained aromas of fruit, cedar and spice, good fruit tastes dominated by firm tannins, medium body, long finish. Needs lots of time but there seems to be fruit to last. 3* $50.
Sarget de Gruaud-Larose Saint Julien Bordeaux France 2001. http://www.gruad-larose.com Georges Pauli winemaker Red color, deep hue, pretty aroma and tastes of good fruit, spice and minerals, medium mouth feel, light tannins, fairly short finish, simple and single note. 3*. $25.
Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Pessac-Leognan Graves Bordeaux France 2003. http://www.smith-haut-lafitte.com/ Fabien Teitgen winemaker. Ruby red color, medium hue, very good aromas of fruit, herbs and a bit of earth, rather simple tastes of fruit and spice, a bit of oakiness, medium to full mouth feel, low acidity, good tannins, perhaps a bit out of balance, long single note finish. I'm always disappointed when the aroma promises more than the tastes deliver. So it was with the wine tonight. 3*. $50.
Burgundy
Maison Louis Jadot Meursault Burgundy France. http://www.louisjadot.com jacques Lardiere, winemaker. Pretty yellow color, light hue, lovely aromas of peaches and citrus with hints of almonds, very good fruit tastes, medium mouth feel, medium acidity, long finish. Delightful. 4*. Around $30.
Domaine Laroche Les Vaudevey Chablis Premier Cru Chablis Burgundy France 2004. http://www.larochewines.com Richard Lavanoux winemaker. Tanzer: "Incidentally, after giving his customers the choice of corks or screwcaps in recent vintages, Michel Laroche has made the decision to bottle entirely with screwcaps, a decision that I applaud." Me too.
Pale yellow color, clear hue, bright fruit tastes with ginger notes and floral notes, very concentrate tastes of lime and herbs, good acidity, a little sweet, medium finish. 3*+. $30.
Champagne
Champagne Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut Champagne France NV. 12% alcohol. http://www.champagne-bollinger.fr/ A very pretty champagne with yeasty notes and tiny bubbles in abundance. Great acidity. 4*. $35.
Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires Champagne France 1995. Regis Camus, winemaker. http://www.charlesheidsieck.com/ This wine has really improved from three years ago; getting more and more mellow with lovely fruit and other notes, lively acidity, pretty finish, great mousse. 4*+. $130 MSP, but often discounted to $75 according to WSP.
Heidsieck & Co Monopole Brut Champagne Blue Top Champagne France NV. Dominique Pichart, winemaker. http://www.vranken.net 70 % Pinot Noir, 10 % Pinot Meunier, 20 % Chardonnay. Pretty yellow color, clear hue, aromatic with fruit and toasty notes, well structured with great fruit notes, lively acidity, very good mousse. 4*. Amazing range of prices on WSP from $8 to $40 or more.
G. H. Mumm Brut Champagne Cordon rouge NV Champagne France. http://www.mumm.com Didier Mariotti, winemaker. Light gold color, light hue, flavors of apples, lemons and minerals, good acidity, dry and light weight. OK, nothing more. 3*. $50; widely available in half bottles around $25, but pricing is all over the lot.
Piper Heidsieck Brut Champagne Cuvee Rare NV Champagne France. http://www.piper-heidsieck.com Regis Camus winemaker. Brillant yellow color, yellow hue, persistent bubbles, very good fruit aroma, medium mouth feel, good concentration, sharp refreshing acidity, the class Champagne of the tasting. Delicious. 5*. $120.
Loire Valley
Pascal Jolivet Sancere Chateau du Nozay Loire Valley France 2005. Jean-Luc Soty, winemaker http://www.pascal-jolivet.com 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Light yellow color, light hue, lovely aroma of fruit and flowers, smooth fruit tastes, mild acidity, medium finish. A very pretty wine with lovely floral notes in the empty glass. 4*. Around $25 - $30.
Rhone
M. Chapoutier White Hermitage Chante-Alouette Hermitage France 2003. Michel Chapoutier winemaker. http://www.chapoutier.com/ 100% Marsanne. Golden yellow with tinges of green, clear hue, excellent aroma of quince, ginger and clover honey, lovely smooth attack, with great fruit, good acidity, relatively long finish. Pretty wine. 4*. Around $50 from the winery; one listing at $75 in the US.
Jean Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets France 2001. Jean Luc Colombo owner and winemaker. [No listed website.] Importer: http://www.palmbayimports.com/brands.asp?VID=711 Deep red color, deep hue, lovely aroma of fruit, flowers and spice, complex tastes of fruit with strong herbal notes, full mouth feel, long complex finish, fantastic aroma in the empty glass; with time to dawdle and allow the wine to develop in the glass, this may be a real winner. Worth searching out. 4*+. $70 at Wine Country of North Plainfield; may be the 2003.
E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde Northern Rhone France. http://www.guigal.com/ Marcel and Philippe Guigal, owners and winemakers. Medium red color, medium hue, lovely aroma and tastes, long complex finish, great balance, delicious. 4*+. $50 to $60.
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage White Le Chevalier de Sterimberg Northern Rhone France 2004. http://www.jaboulet.com/ [the website has limited value currently, but is being updated.] Jacques Desvernois, winemaker. Pretty yellow color, light hue, restrained aromas of melon and honey, very good fruit and honey tastes although still very young, good acidity, long single note finish. Needs much more time, but promising. 3*+. Price about $60?
Sauternes France
Château Suduiraut Sauternes Bordeaux France 2003. Pierre Montegut, technical director. http://www.suduiraut.com Deep yellow color, medium hue, intense aromas of dried fruits, apples, and nuts, very dense mouth feel with lovely spice and fruit taste, incredibly long finish with great fruit and spice notes. Delicious now, and can only get better. 5*. $60. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "Tremendous petrol on the nose with seductive honey and orange blossoms. Sweet without being cloying."]
GERMANY
Gunderloch Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Rheinhessen Nackenheim Rothenberg Germany 2004. http://www.gunderloch.de/ Fritz Hasselbach, winemaker. Pretty yellow color, clear hue, amazingly ocmplex aromas and tastes, good acidity, long finish, fantastic aroma in the empty glass. 4*+. Pricing on WSP is confusing; $45 for a bottle; $45 for a half bottle. I need more education in Rielsing -- it would be useful to attend a Riesling only tasting. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "This is what heaven with honey and nectar poured all over it tastes like. My wife adored this wine so it looks like I'll be shelling out $90+ to pick up a bottle of this 95 PT liquid gold elixir."]
St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Piesporter Goldtropfchen Germany 2005. http://www.urbans-hof.com Nik Weis owner and winemaker. Pale yellow color, clear hue, pretty aromas of peach, lemon and honey, rich flavors of fruit and honey, medium mouth feel, lovely finish. A pretty wine. 4*. $30.
HUNGARY
Disznókö Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Hungary 2000. 500ML http://www.disznoko.hu/ Golden amber, dried apricot, honey, almond and tobacco aromas and tastes, beautifully complex and harmonious flavors, full mouth feel, long, complex finish, great aroma in the empty glass. I prefer the 5 Puttonyos to the 6 Puttonyos versions of Tokaji Aszú, and this one was excellent. [The sweetnes of the 6 Puttonyos seems to overwhelm the subtle notes I find in the 5 Puttonyos versions and I would think that would be particularly true in a very hot vintage like 2000.] According to the winery, the early and very hot weather created a very special wine, and this sure is a very special wine. 5*. Around $45. [Chris Regina, Winecentric: "Unctous Hungarian dessert wine."]
ITALY
Abruzzo Italy
Symposium Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Italy 2000. http://www.vivavino.com Gino Razzi owner and winemaker. Ciccio Zaccagnini Estate. http://www.zaccagninivini.it/ 100% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Deep ruby red, deep hues, very good aromas and tastes of fruit and spice, notes of earth and licorice, medium acidity, good balance, medium long finish. Pretty wine and a pretty label. 4*.
Fiuli Italy
Livio Felluga Colli Orientali del Friuli Sossó Italy 2001. Stefano Chioccioli and Viorel Flocea, winemakers. http://www.liviofelluga.it/ Merlot and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso grapes, together with a small percentage of Pignolo, from Rosazzo; 14% alcohol. Ruby red color, deep hue, complex aroma of cherries, plums, berries and spice, somewhat disappointing tastes of fruit and berries, medium mouth feel, impression of softness, long fruity finish. Despite the great aroma of the wine itself, very little aroma in the empty glass. A taste of earth seemed to overwhelm the fruit and spices in the empty glass. 3*. Price ???; not in WSP.
Marco Felluga -- Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco Col Disôre Friuli Italy 2004. Roberto Felluga and Raffaela Bruno, winemakers. http://www.marcofelluga.it/ Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla with a small amounts of Pinot Bianco & Sauvignon. Intense grapefruit aroma and taste, firm acidity, refreshing. 3*. Price ???
Lazio Italy
Azienda Vinicola Falesco Ferentano IGT Lazio Italy. Renzo Cotarella, owner, Riccardo Cotarella, owner and winemaker. http://www.falesco.it/ 13% alcohol. 100% Roscetto; Montefiascone production area. Deep red color, deep hue, complex aroma of fruits, vegetables and spice, powerful fruit and spice tastes, rich tannins, medium mouth feel with an interesting impression of softness, long lingering finish, lovely aroma in the empty glass. 4*+. $25 in New Jersey; excellent QPR.
Piedmont
Barbaresco Piedmont Italy
Pio Cesare Barbaresco Piedmont Italy 2003. Pio Boffa winemaker. 14% alcohol. http://www.piocesare.it/ [What a useless website!] Garnet color, medium hue, very good aroma and tastes of fruit, spice and violets, firm acidity, bit of oakiness, very good structure, quite a long finish with lots of fruit, spice, earth and floral notes. A very pretty wine despite the hot weather in 2003. Note: no indication that this is the Il Bricco release. 4*. $55 but only one wine shop on WSP; $63 SRP.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello Piedmont Italy 2001. 13.5% alcohol. http://www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com/ Very tight -- I didn't find much tasting it, but the aromas in the empty glass were wonderful and very promising. 4*. $50.
Barolo Piedmont Italy
[Note for future study of Barolo: A key element in understanding the terroirs of Barolo is the east-west division of the appellation. The road that connects the towns of Alba and Barolo divides the Barolo DOCG into what is commonly referred to as the Tortonian subzone to the west -- the townships of Barolo and La Morra -- and the Helvetian subzone to the east -- townships of Serralunga, Castiglione Falletto, and Monforte (the terms Tortonian and Helvetian refer to the prehistoric geological eras when the subsoil was formed). The wines made from fruit grown in the east subzone tend to be more tannic and better suited to aging, while the wines from west are softer and tend to mature more quickly. Within each of these subzones, each cru ("growth" or "growing site") adds new variables to the mix depending on exposure, altitude, and microclimate. Italian Wine Merchants -- http://www.italianwinemerchant.com/ ]
Beni di Batasiolo Barolo Vigneto Corda della Briccolina Piedmont Italy 2001. Giorgio Lavagna, winemaker. Garnet red color, medium hue, good plum aroma with hints of lowers, good fruit taste, medium mouth feel, chewy tannins, long finish, unfortunately a single note finish tonight. 3*. $60.
Bersano Vini SpA Barolo Nirvasco Piedmont Italy 2001. 14% alcohol. Roberto Morosinotto, winemaker. http://www.bersano.it/ Good red color, medium hue, very good floral and berry aromas and tastes, full mouth fine, firm tannins, long finish. A very pretty Barolo at this price point that will surely improve with age. 4*. $36.
Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Bricoo Rocche Piedmont Italy 2001. Allessandro Ceretto and Mauro Daniele, winemakers. http://www.ceretto.com/ -- gorgeous pictures. This is one of my favorite Nebbiolo wines, and I spent just a few seconds glancing at a splash in the glass, inhaling the aromas, pouring out the splash, and then studying the aromas that remained in the glass. Floral and pretty, roses, herbs, and everything nice. I could have tasted this wine all night! 4*+ based on this moment of seduction. $70 to $225 a bottle, based on WSP -- how much is it worth to consumate this affair properly?
Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi Piedmont Italy 2001. Stephano Chiarlo, winemaker. http://www.chiarlo.it/ 13.95% alcohol -- love that precision. Deep red color, deep hue, strong aromas and tastes of dried fruit with good spice notes, medium mouth feel, long single note finish. 3*. $80 to $90.
Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva Piedmont Italy 2000. Stefano Conterno winemaker. http://www.poderialdoconterno.com/ 14.5% alcohol. Magnificent, and it can only get better. 5*. $189 at Italian Wine Merchants, with a great writeup on the winery and this wine in particular. It's interesting that Conterno would pour such a great wine at an event like this -- I was suspicious, but the wine was wonderful.
Damilano Barolo Cannubi Piedmont Italy 2001. Beppe Caviola, winemaker. http://www.cantinedamilano.it/ Red color, medium hue, very good aromas of fruit, mushroom and cedar, rich fruit and spice tastes, medium mouth feel, long interesting finish, great aroma in the empty glass with cedar predominating. 4*. $32.
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Piedmont Italy. http://www.brunogiacosa.it Dante Scaglione, winemaker. What a lovely wine -- lovely aroma -- too good to waste on sipping for a minute or two. Just lovely. 4*+. $100 to $120.
Prunotto Barolo Bussia Piedmont Italy 2001. http://www.prunotto.it Gianluca Torrengo winemaker 13.5% alcohol. Red color, deep hue, lovely aorma of plums and cherries with spices and floral notes, very good fruit, spice and earthen notes, full mouth feel, sweet tannins, long finish. Very promising and drinking well even now. 5*. $75.
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc Piedmont Italy. Enrico Scavino, owner and winemaker. 14.5% alcohol. Red color, deep hue, very good fruit aroma and tastes, good spice and earth notes, firm acidity, very good balance, long finish, needs some time. 4*. $70.
Vietti Barolo Lazzarito Piedmont Italy 2003. http://www.vietti.com Luca Currado, owner and winemaker. Deep red color, deep hue, wonderful Barolo with a great balance of tannins and fruit, full mouth feel, long, long finish with many grace notes. A wine to drink and dawdle over, far away from a hectic tasting of many wines. 5*. $100.
Barbera -- Piedmont Italy
La Spinetta Barbera d'Asti Superiore Bionzo Piedmont Italy 2004. http://www.la-spinett.com Giorgio Rivetti, winemaker. [Love that hippo!] Red color, medium hue, very good fruit aroma and taste with licorice, spice and coffee notes, medium mouth feel, medium finish, pleasant acidity, a good food wine. Pretty aromas in the empty glass. 4*. $35.
Puglia Italy
Tormaresca Aglianico Castel del Monte Bocca di Lupo Puglia Italy. http://www.tormaresca.it Renzo Cotarella winemaker. http://www.tormaresca.it 13.5% alcohol. Very dark ruby red, deep hue, intense aromas and tastes of raisins, spice and minerals, medium body, long finish, tight and needs time to open. 3* now, but very promising. $25.Tuscany
rugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) 90%, Colorino 10%." My notes were dismissive: Pretty red color, medium hue, restrained aroma and taste, short finish. 2*. Off bottle? Nothing on WSP in the US; around $40-$50 in Germany and Italy.
Very interesting. Thanks for taking the time to post.
