Homage to Thomas Jefferson: Virginia Wines Come of Age

This most enjoyable write-up on the Virginian wine scene showed up on Appellation America's website today.

I thoroughly enjoyed reading it and, with great enthusiasm, pass it on for the enjoyment of other fans of our Eastern American wineries and home-grown wine.

Homage to Thomas Jefferson: Virginia Wines Come of Age

thanks paul - he is one writer i really respect.

Paul, thanks for posting. I was in DC this weekend staying at a Hotel in Northern VA. The hotel was hosting a Jon Benet Ramsey type little girl's beauty pageant - absolutely disgusting - how can parents do this to their kids? But I digress. I was there to meet some friends and see some sights. The hotel brochure had a listing of all the wineries in Northern VA, but since my time was limited, I'll have to make an extended stay the next time I go to see some of the sights I missed, including the area wineries.

Thank's for posting Paul, nice article.

Salute

Thank you for the article! I stopped at a Virginia winery last summer (I believe the name was Chatham) and was able to do a tasting with the owner. I was pretty impressed by their wines, especially their unoaked Chardonnay (and I'm usually not a Chardonnay fan!)

My pleasure, everyone. I'm really happy to see all this interest in the wines of The Olde Dominion ... Thanks for your feedback.

Although most of Virginia's efforts may be aimed at vinifera, I am very happy to see Norton get due mention in the article. Norton is America's true red wine grape; as such, its place in the national winescape really needs to be recognized.

[James Roscoe]

Paul, if I get up to NiagaraCool or MoCool I will bring one of my 2001 Horton Nortons and we can see how it is progressing. My wife doesn't care for it, so it's been sitting in the cellar for the past four years. It ought to be ready.

Additionally, I have tried almost all the wines mentioned in the article. I don't know that I would rave so much over the vinefera reds, particularly the Bordeaux varieties, except for the cab. franc. There is some good cab franc being made in Virginia. The Barboursville is the best, but others are coming along. Virginia does have some truely great whites. I was surprised to see no mention of viognier, which Virginia does pretty well. I love the Linden whites across the board. The rule in Virginia is that the whites can compete with anyone, but the reds still need to find their place. That is my humble opinion at any rate.

James, that would be fantastic. I'm truly looking forward to it.

[James Roscoe]

James, that would be fantastic. I'm truly looking forward to it.

Since you seem NEVER to be able to get down here.....

Additionally, we have been promising the kids a trip to the Falls since forever. We need to get up there this summer.

Since you seem NEVER to be able to get down here.....

I know ... there's never enough holidays to go around, that's the problem. Damn, we all should have French-style national holiday plans ... then I could finally get to some, if not most, of these places!

The rule in Virginia is that the whites can compete with anyone, but the reds still need to find their place. That is my humble opinion at any rate.

Just another data point here, but I feel like Virginia's reds aren't doing so poorly. In terms of varietals, I'd say that Virginia's cabernet franc, merlot, and norton all do pretty well. In particular, I love the cardamom, dill, and great acidity that I often find in Virginia's merlots--whereas the random California examples I would run into would feel flat and lifeless. Red blends can be a tossup, however. Some do feel concocted and make it seem like Virginia either has a ways to go or is going the wrong way, but others like Blenheim's Meritage, Villa Appalacchia's Toscanello, or Afton Mountain's Clairet give me faith that there are some pretty passionate people out there doing pretty well.

But across the board, I'd say it's an exciting place for wine. The contrast with California when it comes to diversity and experimentation is something that I found quite astounding. The caveat, of course, being that some of those experiments turn belly-up, and there is some real clunkers being poured in some of Virginia's tasting rooms . . .

[David M. Bueker]

I love the Linden whites across the board.

Another Linden fan here! The wife and I will be getting to a few VA wineries on our vacation this month. I'll post some notes when I get back.

. . . give me faith that there are some pretty passionate people out there doing pretty well.

That's the bingo phrase for me, Keith. Passion - a love of what one is doing - makes every endeavor so much more fruitful (pun intended). I'd say it goes right down to the level of the smallest-volume producer who fusses over his vines every day. You'd swear that the meticulous, hands-on babying of the vines shines through in the wine later - even if the vinification is a relatively simple step in the making of the wine. It's as if the fruit pours forth its gratitude later.

I think this approach is the perfect antidote to a blasé, codified, prescribed "by the book" spontaneity-stifling legalistic approach that is sometimes seen in corporate-minded circles. I run from that sort of thing.

[James Roscoe]

I love the Linden whites across the board.

Another Linden fan here! The wife and I will be getting to a few VA wineries on our vacation this month. I'll post some notes when I get back.

What wineries do you plan to hit? May is a great time to be in the Blue Ridge! You might take some time to get over to Shenandoah NP. The hiking can be spectacular in an east coast sort of way. It's my family's favorite vacation spot as it's close to home yet seems remote. We've been doing it off and on for years. It's affordable for us. Enjoy your time David!

We'll be hitting four of the VA wineries this Saturday on a bus full of Maris College alumni (a friend invited us along): Piedmont Cellars, Chrysalis Vineyards, Swedenburg Estate, and Winery at LaGrange. I've been to Piedmont (some really bad wines if I recall) and Chrysalis (some really nice wines, esp. their viogner).

Will post notes next week.

[James Roscoe]

We'll be hitting four of the VA wineries this Saturday on a bus full of Maris College alumni (a friend invited us along): Piedmont Cellars, Chrysalis Vineyards, Swedenburg Estate, and Winery at LaGrange. I've been to Piedmont (some really bad wines if I recall) and Chrysalis (some really nice wines, esp. their viogner).

Will post notes next week.

I have been to the first three and would agree with your analysis. The Swedenburg winery makes a very nice dry riesling, or did. They were also responsible for the Supreme Court case a few years ago that opened up interstate shipping. I am not familiar with LaGrange. It must be new.

[David M. Bueker]

Piedmont has at times produced decent Chardonnay. At one time they were one of the leaders in VA for that grape.

As for my trip, I will likely go to Veritas and King Family, and probably find time to fit in another one somewhere. I've done the whole Horton/Barboursville thing too many times to count (been tasting in VA since 1989), so more likely some place down near Charlottesville.

Piedmont has at times produced decent Chardonnay. At one time they were one of the leaders in VA for that grape.

I wonder what happened at Piedmont . . . my experience there a year or two ago was like what James and K described--completely undrinkable. In fact, 'world-class chardonnay' (which Piedmont claims in all their write-ups) became a running joke for me and my friends . . .

As for my trip, I will likely go to Veritas and King Family, and probably find time to fit in another one somewhere. I've done the whole Horton/Barboursville thing too many times to count (been tasting in VA since 1989), so more likely some place down near Charlottesville.

Have you been to Blenheim, David? If not, I think they are worth a visit. And Brad McCarthy is a lively personality . . . makes for an interesting time as well.

[David M. Bueker]

Haven't been to Belnheim yet. I'll check out the location and vitals. Thanks.

We've long admired Linden's whites, including the '99 hardscrabble cited in the article, plus he makes an impressive dessert wine. Barboursville '04 Cab Fran is exceptional, and their nebbiolo is very good. Naked Mountain - not mentioned in the article - can also make terrific chardonnay in good years, which improves for several years. We've had an impressive natural yeast chardonnay from Piedmont in the past year, though overpriced. Chrysalis and Norton have not been impressive, in my experience, though I know Norton has a loyal constitutency. We've also had surpisingly decent pinot Noir from Afton.

Jim Law seems to be the most inspired and artisinal winemaker, and he has a great business model (he is also a former Peace Corps Volunteer); Barboursville has the most professional organizational approach. Quality and consistency around the state generally, though, is still at an early stage, IMHO.

Paul, I have a bottle of Estate grown Kentucky Norton in my possession that I am saving for Mo'Cool 2007. I bought it especially with you in mind. BTW, it "ain't" a bad wine either.

[Robin Garr]

Paul, I have a bottle of Estate grown Kentucky Norton

Smith-Berry or Lover's Leap or other, Bob? (I think Lover's Leap calls theirs Cynthiana, though.)

It is Elk Creek, in Owen County Robin. At $20 it is a bit over priced, but our friend Paul is worth it. I tasted it at the Cincinnati wine festival, and decided on the spot to get a bottle for Mo'Cool.

It is Elk Creek, in Owen County Robin. At $20 it is a bit over priced, but our friend Paul is worth it.

Thank you Bob - spoken like a true friend. I appreciate the thought.

Naturally, I am always eager to try V. aestivalis wine whenever I have a chance - especially since our liquor monopoly is none too eager to diversify into the genre, despite a number of written appeals in the past asking them to consider so much as featuring it one time. Hey - if they can feature a Shiraz from India, then why not take a chance on a Midwestern Norton/Cynthiana? Oh, right, I forgot ... Shiraz just sells!