WTN: The three Bs of Piedmont

Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo were the topics of a tasting last night. A good cross-section, some with a bit of age.

Served with mushroom risotto and rabbit.

2005 Conterno-Fantino Barbera Vignota Cherry and currant on the nose and palate. Very fruit forward, almost citrus-like, with a nice, bright acidity.

2001 Moccagatta Barbaresco ‘Bric Balin’ Plum, cherry, currant and flowers on the nose. Cherry and currant on the palate, with dusty tannins and a mouthwatering acidity.

1997 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja Rose petals, manure and cherry on the nose. Chocolate, tar and cherry on the palate.

2000 Marcarini Barolo Brunate Floral, earthy and cherry nose. Mushrooms, cherries, currants, cedar and a meatiness on the palate.

1996 Massolino Filli Barolo Parafada Concentrated, port-like nose. Raspberries and black cherries in the mouth.

1996 Giovanni Manzone Barolo La Gramolere Riserva Very tight right now, perhaps because it was shipped from Italy less than a week before the tasting. With some coaxing and heavy sniffing, it showed violets on the nose. Some red berries in the mouth, but the tannins were too tight and the acidity to bracing to really gauge the wine at this point.

1997 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornata Fruit forward, with raspberries, cherries and currants on the nose and palate. Showing some black tea and leather characteristics.

1990 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa Tar, black tea, prune, plum and violets on the nose. Black tea, currants, leather on the palate. Well integrated tannins and acidity.

The Fontanafredda and the Moccagatta were the favoured wines. I had a hard time with the Massolino - it wasn't bad, but it seemed off. Otherwise, they were all excellent.

Nice tasting, Mike.

Did you think the 2000 Brunate was in a good place for current drinking? It sounds like it was pretty good from your description. I have the 2001 Marcarini Brunate, but I am going to leave it alone for some years, as the 01 Marcarini La Serra seemed very tight last year.

Was there a lot of oak flavors with the Conterno Barbera?

I also like the Cortese Rabaja Barbarescos, but haven't tried the 1997. The '98 has lots of character, and was relatively inexpensive compared with some other equivalent wines.

Best,
Marc

Nice tasting, Mike.

Did you think the 2000 Brunate was in a good place for current drinking? It sounds like it was pretty good from your description. I have the 2001 Marcarini Brunate, but I am going to leave it alone for some years, as the 01 Marcarini La Serra seemed very tight last year.

Was there a lot of oak flavors with the Conterno Barbera?

Hey Marc,

The Marcarini is in no threat of going downhill anytime soon. To my knowledge, it had been decanted about three hours before we drank it and it was still showing mostly primary characteristics. I went back to it a few times over the night and it kept showing me more and more.

I suppose you could drink one now if you have a few bottles, but I'd hang on to it otherwise. It will just continue to get better.

I found little oakiness in the Barbera. Though it's possible the bright acidity may have obscured it. It's mostly fruit forward. Nice, too. I bought two bottles to drink soon.

I found little oakiness in the Barbera. Though it's possible the bright acidity may have obscured it. It's mostly fruit forward. Nice, too. I bought two bottles to drink soon.

Well, I'm just gonna have to take that back. My wife and I drank a bottle last night. It was wonderful with prosciutto and chunks of parmesan reggiano. But there it was - vanilla. So yup, there's definitely an oakiness to it, though I didn't find it prominent.