Belated tasting notes on a gathering in Germany on August 12 & 13, 2006. Erik’s guests that weekend included Albino and Andrea, Victor and Oliver (“their” Oliver, not “ours” from Zurich), plus of course yours truly.
If the order looks a bit strange in places, it is because of the courses the wines were served with, or the breaks we made in between.
We started with a line-up of 2004 dry Rieslings, some of which I had tasted before and recognised, but it is not a secret that I my favourite dry Rieslings come from Alsace and the Wachau, and that the little Swiss delegation almost exclusively buys and drinks off-dry and sweet ones from Germany. Sorry I largely forgot who contributed these.
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Erstes Gewächs Monzinger Halenberg 2004
Thanks to Oliver. 13% alc. Soft herbs, off-dryness, quite long, nice minerals and fruit. Already liked this at the release tasting in Zürich. Rating: 85
Schlossgut Diel Riesling Erstes Gewächs Dorsheimer Goldloch 2004
13% alc. Much more minerally, deeper, darker herb notes, seemingly more body, rounder. Rating: 86/87
Dönnhoff Riesling Erstes Gewächs Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle 2004
12.5% alc. Grapier, with a soft bitter note, more complex, fuller body, more extract, not necessarily longer, though. Rating: 88+?
Josef Leitz Riesling Spätlese trocken Alte Reben Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland 2004
13.5% alc. Spicier, more herbaceousness, grassy, limey. Quite full-bodied as well. Stronger bitter note here. Fairly long. Already thought the alcohol integration only just sufficient at the release tasting in Zurich. Rating: 87
Van Volxem Riesling Alte Reben Kanzem Altenberg 2004
There was a tiny sulphur top note here that some thought a bit worrisome. Yeastier and “wilder”. A bit lighter, but there’s so much more subtlety to the fruit, lots of finesse, the least reductive and the longest of the dry Riesling that day. Even so, by far not the most convincing bottle I have tasted of this often outstanding wine (at release and since). Rating: 88
Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Erstes Gewächs Roth Lay 2004
12.5% alc. Bit whiter flowers, apple blossoms, mineral dust, higher, good acidity, but also more concentrated. Good body. Rating: 88
Wittmann Riesling Erstes Gewächs Westhofen Morstein 2004
Too tannic, a bit dusty and rough, rather than bitter. Very closed, though, and a well-concentrated wine hinting at some minerality and herbs. Rating: 85+?
Keller Riesling Erstes Gewächs Dalsheim Hubacker 2004
Yeastier nose, more than just surface here for once, herbs and minerals, some soil notes/expression of terroir, too. Rating: 87?
Plus one 2005:
Villa Niederberger Riesling Neustadter Mönchgarten 2005
Thanks to Erik who had got this in the mail that day, but was too curious to wait. Very pale colour. Apparently Hans-Günther Schwarz’s (former, highly successful and widely admired winemaker at Müller-Catoir) winery. Merely 600 or so bottles made. 12.5% alc. White chocolate, subtle lilac, a little tannin, sweet Gala apple peel, a touch of greenish banana, good medium-plus body, fairly palate-staining and long. Rating: ~88?
Trimbach Riesling Séléction de Grains Nobles Cuvée Frédéric Emile 1990
Half bottle thanks to Albino. Deeper golden yellow-green than usual. Top aroma of saffron like a Weil, oily texture on the palate, some candied lime bitterness, now subjectively sweeter with its only 80 g/l residual sugar, seemingly also fuller-bodied, a comparatively forward bottle. Earlier standard size bottles seemed a fraction more promising, but then, it has been clear from the outset that the 1990 will never fully live up to the great 1989. Would love to taste the 2000 and 2001 versions. Rating: 94(+?)
Sélectionné par Caves Augé Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2001
Thanks to Erik (or was it Victor?), who was told by a wine merchant that this was made by Aubert de Villaine (of DRC fame) – whether or not this is true, I do not know (Anyone know? Claude?). From a stylistic point of view, it did not seem unlikely at all (especially on the nose). Note we are talking about a costly 57 dollar generic Burgundy here. Nice, well-integrated oak. Some herbs, a lees aroma and shell of an oyster yeastiness, mustard seed, nice body and alcohol integration, could have been firmer and more intense in the middle. A touch tannic, including minor phenolic bitterness, firm acidity, fairly long. High sulphur, and yet, seemingly prematurely aged. Interesting rather than attractive at least at this point. A bit rougher and more tannic with airing. Hard to tell if this is was merely in an awkward phase. Rating: 86(+?)
Franz Künstler Riesling Auslese trocken Hochheimer Hölle 2003
Thanks to Sam, who arrived a bit late. 13% alc. Complex herbs, such as basil, tarragon and sage, apple, some exotism to this, concentrated but, subjectively at least, probably not particularly high in dry extract. Mouth-puckering, firm acidity. The combination of spice and alcohol give this dry wine a superficial impression of sweetness. Rating: 88+?/89
Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 1991
Thanks to Sam. Garnet-ruby-red, some orange at the rim. Smoky nose, some brick clay and mushroom and a touch of dried tomato, soft cured meat sweetness. Definitely fully mature, exhibited some autumnal austerity, best enjoyed with food at this stage. Could not help being reminded of the near-perfect La Mouline from the same vintage, and of how long ago it is I last got to drink any great LaLa... Herbaceous yet sweeter after 12 hours in the decanter. Rating: 89-/88
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 1996
Thanks to Erik. I have had much better bottles of this wine (the last of which at the La Chapelle Vertical in Bad Ragaz in April 2004) – apart from the fact that there may be different bottles of this wine on the market, same as with the 1997 (and, I hear, other vintages of La Chapelle), I am not convinced this was ideally stored throughout its life. Glossy ruby, if with a slightly garnet-brown hue, some orange at the rim. A bit strawy on the nose, a rather boring Malaga sweetness, definitely an oxidative touch. Decadent, even morbid salted and air-dried meat, some of the tell-tale canned tomato, fish oil, pepper, green licorice stick and leek almost rather than chive. A weird bottle still of almost very good quality, but that cannot have been representative. I hope! Rainer claims he has had bottles like this before... Rating: N/R
Domaine Peyre Rose Côteaux du Languedoc Clos des Cistes 1992
Thanks to Sam. Quite deep garnet-ruby-black with good gloss, tiny orange rim. Pruney garrigue and milk chocolate, lovely tobacco with a touch of eucalyptus, round sweetness, nicely juicy, though ultimately a bit flatter on the mid-palate than ideal. A touch of charcoal and some gun-powdery tannin dryness on the back end. Even so, no doubt an interesting wine that appears to have aged well. Drink up! Rating: 89-/88?
Greenock Creek Shiraz Barossa Valley Roennfeldt Road 1996
Once sold a bottle to Rainer, who drank it with his parents and called me to report how much he preferred the 1996 to the 1995 we had at our great Syrah/Shiraz shootout at Victor’s in 2001. Although this was my contribution, the truth is, wines like this have always made me scratch my head and probably always will. Why? Because their quality is undeniable, and yet, it is really only my curiosity that makes me taste and drink, let alone buy them. I once read an interview with the world’s most famous wine critic, where he says: “There are fruit bombs that I do give good reviews to - generally Australian wines, because that's what they do best.“ Never having travelled Australia, I cannot say if this is true in general, but it certainly is for the wines we get to buy, thus taste and drink here. Of all these wines, those vinified by Chris Ringland have always seemed to me among the finest, in particular the 1994 to 1996 Seven Acre and 1995 Three Rivers, which all manage to retain an admirable freshness. These wines can be overbearingly jammy and baby-fat, apart from being full-bodied (the 1995 RR at 14.4% alcohol is not the least bit less monstrous than the 1996 at 15.2). They are not at all artificial-tasting, on the contrary, they are old-viney (in this case fruit from 50-plus-years-old vines), expressive of terroir (the prominent soil notes are where a Roennfeldt Road bottling differs most from other Greenock Creek bottlings, not just the incredible concentration and monumental size), not too oaky given the raw materials (typically aged three years in sealed American hogsheads). It would be unfair to accuse a wine like this for what it has to offer, let alone for stylistic reasons, as that would be to throw the baby out with the bath water. I only wish there were more freshness, subtlety and finesse, all of which I have problems believing are going to develop with bottle age (of course, ageworthiness seems a given here, too). After all, such wines exist, it is not as if we had to accept some kind of impossibility asking for more. Having said all this, note that my friends seemed rather happy with it, Albino actually urged me not to sell remaining bottles (as I was openly dallying with the idea), confident there may be something, possibly lots to gain from cellaring them. All right then, we shall see... Deep, almost opaque ruby-black colour. Aromas and flavours of ink, mint, milk chocolate and game, less “cool” and complex than the 1995 perhaps, a bit sullen and a touch malty at first (more freshness would not hurt, but it really seemed to be in a mildly closed phase), superripe and full-bodied, easier to enjoy than the 1995 at this early stage. Balanced in its inimitable Super Size Me way, highly resistant to oxidation, seemingly more youthful with airing if not “early-harmonious” (the latter a characteristic the 1995 was lacking altogether), a hugely concentrated and intense, extremely well-made wine, no doubt, although this is not going to help much if, like me, you merely recognise its (potential!) greatness but remain unsympathetic. Luckily not as fearsome as the 1995, though. Rating: 94++!?
Château Haut Brion Pessac Léognan 1966
Thanks to Erik. Quite deep garnet-red, some orange at the rim. Single Malt peat, quite noble Havanna tobacco and dried black cherry on the nose, a little brick clay and coffee. A bit lighter and soapier on the palate, with a medium sweat note, neither structure, concentration nor length were ideal. Medium-plus body. Somewhat citrusy acidity with metal note, not too dry tannin. Still youthful and tasty enough to drink, but definitely best on the nose. But: dead on the nose after 12 hours, paradoxically almost better, certainly more terroir-typical on the palate. Rating: 89-?
Château La Lagune Haut Médoc 1970
Thanks to Erik. Not too glossy, clear garnet with a touch of amber, orange at the rim. Unattractive on the nose, with aromas of boaty-salty oak, stale waxy tobacco, no fruit worth mentioning. Bland and short on the palate, a bit light though not bad. Somewhat dry, faintly tea-like tannin, but the acidity is already slightly brittle. Rating: 84-
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Fay Vineyard 1975
Thanks to Erik, I believe. Healthy garnet-ruby, medium orange at the rim. Seemed corked at first, but really was a bretty bottle with same kind of varnish note that mars some bottles of 1986 Ducru-Beaucaillou. The stale varnish-like component also played into the acids, compromising the blackcurrant and cherry fruit’s expression rather severely. This also oxidised all too quickly in the decanter. Only time I have ever had this, I can only hope other bottles are not defective (or, as is often the case with old Heitz, far from undrinkably so). Rating: N/R
Château Troplong Mondot St. Emilion 1990
Thanks to Victor, thus one must assume as perfectly stored a bottle as they get. Full, quite glossy ruby-red with a garnet, and towards the time slightly orange hue. Aristocratic on the nose for a Troplong Mondot, quite noble tobacco, but beware of the tannin, it is so massive it can be smelt! Along with the slightly brandy-like alcohol. A bit malty, lactic and rough, firm on the palate, if not mouth-puckering to the point where it becomes faintly abrasive. Heavy-handed chocolate cream. Less opulent and sweet than typical as Victor observes, but then, I have always had my doubts that wines like this age well. If there were any less fat to this, it would have been truly problematic. After 12 hours almost edgy with abrasiveness despite some smoky tobacco, rose-hip and Roiboos tea complexity. Not easy to judge, there is still hope this was not a representative bottle. Rating: ~90?
Château Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf St. Emilion 1990
Thanks to Oliver. What a bad day for Bordeaux this turned out to be. From the same case as that wonderful, perfumey, Kirsch-sweet bottle four and a half years earlier. Healthy ruby-black, slight orange at the rim. Pretty sweet oak and candy, if not caramel on the nose. Impressively balanced, but much less focused on the palate than I remember it, much less inner-mouth perfume and purity. Warming up front, cooler and fresher on the back end, with the same, recurring emphasis on malt, candy and dark caramel. Better in the sense of more complete and expressive with airing, but unfortunately a bit spiky underneath. Almost better than the Troplong Mondot for a short while that night. Undrinkably oxidised after 12 hours. Another inexplicable showing... Rating: N/R
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia (Marchese Lodovico Antinori) Masseto 1996
A bottle Albino and I once received as a present from our dear friend Ned, who accompanies us all too rarely to wine-related events these days. Full, fresh-looking ruby-black. Slightly Aussie-like milk chocolate, firm black cherry, has cut, starting out a bit lean, but soon rounder and fuller-tasting with airing, fine body and length. Fatter, sweeter, rounder, smoother and longer after 12 hours in the decanter, soft tobacco and earth finesse notes. Not the thickest vintage of Masseto ever, but elegant and certainly one of the wines of the weekend. Still young, will age, but hard to tell how much room for improvement this has got. It seems a fraction more modern than the 1994 in style only, the more radical change towards New Wordliness (which, along with the sudden price increase, has since kept me from buying any more of my once favourite Italian Merlot) seems to have taken place around this time and later. In terms of quality alone, I would currently place it on roughly the level of the 1994, or close (above the 1993 for sure, probably below the 1995). Rating: 91+?
Château Yquem Sauternes 1921
Thanks to our generous host Erik. Vandermeulen bottling. Medium orange-gold. Tangerine, airy-light, sweet and dry, no excess fat, a touch of caramel, soft bee’s wax. Rather reminiscent of the 1970. Best on the nose, smells like a wine of greater concentration than it (this bottling) is. The impression this made on the palate would not justify an outstanding rating. Mature wine is always a treat, though, plus to me, smell is easily as important as taste, probably more so. A fraction sweeter the following day, though still rather dry for a 1921. Rating: ~90/91?
Sérafin Charmes-Chambertin 1999
Thanks to Victor. Nice medium-plus ruby-black colour. Smoky meat and iron, firm and complex raspberry and black raspberry fruit, concentrated, stony minerality for a Charmes. Racy and multi-faceted. Crisp tiny caper finesse note. Good body. Tannin that is deep and tea-like, if a bit hard and salty (with old-vininess or extraction was hard to tell). Some forest earth, nice leather after a while, too. Race horse like structure, no excess fat. Very persistent and long. Simply love Pinot Noir as firm, showing cut and aging potential, and of course, drenched with soil notes. Needs and deserves several years in the cellar. The dry red of the weekend, not only to me. Rating: 94+/~95?
Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Auslese VdP-Auction Uhlen Roth Lay 2001
Half bottle thanks to Sam. It may be it actually only says “R” or Uhlen “R” on the label. Apparently the second-sweetest bottling (after the TBA) that year. Bright yellow colour. Buttercup and verbena, quite fat and sweet, lovely floral-scented acidity, long, a very tasty wine. But lactic, showing a weird little buttery-grassy top note after twelve hours. Even so, the finest I have so far tasted from this producer. Rating: ~90
Úri Borok (Vince Gergely) Tokaji Aszúeszencia 1998
Thanks to Albino and/or Andrea, I believe. "Only" 260 g/l residual sugar at 6.6% alcohol left of the earlier 410-430 g/l in this declassified Eszencia, as it was apparently “diluted" by the humidity it "attracted" during the time it was kept in a (used!) oak Gönci instead of glass demijohn as full-blown Eszencia would/might have and, as a consequence, was able to re-ferment to a slightly higher alcohol level than expected, albeit still too low for Aszú-Eszencia. Be that as it may, an important aspect is that this contains no base wine or must (technically speaking it is debatable whether it qualifies as Aszú-szölö bor). Even if what happened here seems cause for relative disappointment (what Albino and I tasted from barrel in May 2003 definitely was more promising, as well as seemingly the QPR buy of a lifetime), it seems pointless to complain, as in hindsight, prices have gone up drastically (not undeservedly so, one must admit) since then, so that this might be considered a bargain next to the 6 Puttonyos Szent Tamás 2000 (although again, it is tempting to say that wine deserves to fetch more). Golden colour with a slight green hue. Lightly volatile green tea, quincy pear and apple, fresh bee’s wax, quite candied, nicely viscous and still quite dense and chalky with soil notes. 12 hours later it seemed creamy with acacia honey, round and smooth, longer on the finish, it really kept growing on me (again). Perhaps not the immaculate precision of the 2000 6P (or the 1993 AE), but a great effort from a rainy harvest, and still my favourite wine of the vintage. Definitely needs time in bottle. Rating: 93+
Illés Pince Eszencia Huza Dülö 1999
An Eszencia from a top vintage, reportedly holding 565 g/l residual sugar, but it was nonetheless a mistake to serve this after Vince Gergely’s 1998 AE. Waxy amber-orange-gold. Off-putting aldehyde aroma, a little dried bee’s wax to some lightly oxidised quincy apple. Already better after 12 hours, showing a faint lemon rind bitter note to nice dried apricot, but also botrytis that seems faintly grey. AE sweetness balance perhaps, medium-plus length at best. Victor has retasted this at least once since then and reported that “clean”, so there is hope that what we had here was a slightly (?) off bottle. Rating: ~87?
F. X. Pichler Gelber Muskateller Trockenbeerenauslese 1998
The legendary wine insiders humorously refer to as Alois Kracher’s best, if not his only truly great wine ever. Thanks to Erik (from half bottle, as always). A perplexing wine rather than a perplexing bottle, starting out monolithic and seemingly a bit advanced, only to open up with airing, smelling and tasting youngest by the following day. My impression is that its very prolonged fruit phase is over, and that it is currently in an in-between phase, needing more time to acquire secondary characteristics. The “problem” with wine of this magnitude is, it will never fully shut down, thus any so-called closed phase may go by almost unnoticed. Full amber-copper colour. More orange peel to the tangerine now, thick if not fat, viscous and sweet, with impressive minerally depth (it is from the great Kellerberg vineyard, after all!), mouth-puckering intensity and grip, a long and powerful finish where the breathtaking acidity returns with a vengeance. A pity Pichler decided against making a wine like it ever again. 12 hours later, the passion-fruity acids could be smelled (as I had remembered from earlier showings), apricot and tangerine flavours seemed both sweeter and livelier, despite an important bee’s wax top note. Mouthcoatingly thick and long, it seemed as perfect again as ever. Was perfect every single time I tasted it, I am curious to see what is going to happen to it with significantly more bottle age, which now appears to be the most reasonable route. How long this will keep, I do not know – longer than any of us, I am afraid. More importantly, however, how long it will take to again reach a plateau of ideal drinkability is also a mystery to me (there is no track record for this bottling, all I can say is that top Muskotály from Tokaj are said to be as ageworthy as Furmint-based wines...). Rating: 98+/100?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
