WTN: M & M & M

I am enjoying a quiet dinner at home. We finished off the Bouchard Père & Fils Morgon 2005 (13% abv) that we opened last night since our d'Angludet wasn't quite enough for us, lushes that we are! It's one of only three Cru Bojos available here and has pleased me in almost all vintages I've had. This was very sweet and raspberryish on day one. Day two, that remains but it has gained a savoury edge to it. It is rather tannic but gloriously fruited. It isn't a fun drink at this moment, but I do think it will be in a year or so as all the pieces are rather lovable, but the whole just seems like its been shattered. The 2004 of this has turned from a tart wine into a delicous drink at the moment; hopefully the 2005 will change as radically.

Château Bouscassé Madiran 1997 (12,5% abv) is a great deal of fun. It isn't as rugged as Tannat reputedly is, but it smells of blue flowers and meaty, Bordeaux-like lead and cassis and herbs. The palate is tannic as expected but the tannins are soft. The acidity is quite delightful - it isn't high, but it does bring a refreshing guality to the whole. A recent taste of the 2001 (at a whopping 14,5% abv) tasted as if spoofulation has arrived chez Brumont! I really hope it isn't so? A Bouscassé VV 1991 and this '97 are what I really love to see in a Madiran: a mixture of wildness and refinement. Lovely!

-O-

Château Montus Madiran 1997 12,5%

Like the Bouscassé, this is a meaty and floral wine but shows more oak influence (but it isn't over-oaked, don't worry). The palate is bigger, less evolved but drinking well. This seems more fruit forward and less a traditional style of Madiran, but it is still a cracking drink!

The two recent vintages '01 and '02 that have been available here have been 14,5% abv monstrosities, over-extracted and much too oaky. This '97 is a great drink. When did things start going wrong at Montus? Or will the recent monstrosities really turn into such beauties as this?

-Otto-