WTN: Roasted Copper (Guigal, Donnhoff)

[David M. Bueker]

Two wines over the weekend:

With burgers on Saturday I opened the 1995 Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde. I had not tried one in at least 5 years, and time had been decent to the wine. There was still some red and black fruit to go along with meaty and leathery notes, and just the barest hint of earth. Balanced more to the acidic side of the scale (good for me!), but with adequate fruit, it tasted not unlike the '95 Jaboulet wines I had opened recently. There's an austerity to these '95s which I like but which suggests drinking up is not a bad idea.

And to accompany roasted pork loin with a Sherry and black pepper cream sauce I opened the 2004 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese (Nahe). Initially it was quite closed, but 30 minutes or so of air brought out red fruit, peaches and a rocky, smoldering intensity that carried right through to the flavors. Rich and deep without being heavy (classic spätlese instead of outsized auslese in a spätlese bottle) it complemented the dish perfectly, with the well balanced sweetness working in harmony with the pepperiness of the sauce. On its own afterward the depth of the wine was even more apparent, with the red fruit and iron-like soil tones becoming richer and richer as time went on. Delicious stuff.

[Jenise]

David, just in case your note attracts the right attention, I'd appreciate anyone chiming in with recent experience on the 95 Guigal Hermitage. I own a single bottle, so I want to get it right.

[David M. Bueker]

I had the '95 Hermitage about 3 months ago. I thought it was in much the same place as the Cote Rotie - it's good, but drink up. It's not getting any better.

Something I've noted on the Guigal "generics" (e.g. Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Chateauneuf, Gigondas) is that they show spectacularly well in the first two years of release and then never get any better. So now I'm drinking up all my stocks and never putting any more down to age. Just buy and drink if I want to drink Guigal.

[Jenise]

David, thanks for the info. I've not bought many of the Guigal generics, as you call them. I remember buying several Cote Roties and Hermitages in the 90 vintage; but we probably drank them up pretty quickly--they never appeared on any inventories.

[David M. Bueker]

I remember buying several Cote Roties and Hermitages in the 90 vintage; but we probably drank them up pretty quickly--they never appeared on any inventories.

Smart move.

Something I've noted on the Guigal "generics" (e.g. Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Chateauneuf, Gigondas) is that they show spectacularly well in the first two years of release and then never get any better. So now I'm drinking up all my stocks and never putting any more down to age. Just buy and drink if I want to drink Guigal.

David,
One factor that may relate to your experience is that the Hermitage, CdP and Gigondas all come from Guigal's negociant business. I suspect that the Brune et Blonde may as well, but I don't know for a fact. As such, these wines are probably not sourced from the best vineyards (the St. Joseph OTOH comes from the former estate of Grippat).

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

David,
One factor that may relate to your experience is that the Hermitage, CdP and Gigondas all come from Guigal's negociant business. I suspect that the Brune et Blonde may as well, but I don't know for a fact. As such, these wines are probably not sourced from the best vineyards (the St. Joseph OTOH comes from the former estate of Grippat).

Mark Lipton

Not unlikely. I'm not expecting the moon here, but they do seem to fall flat rather quickly.

This was hard and tannic at release, but I thought it gained with time. Granted, I'm a wine necrophile.
Charles

• 1990 E. Guigal Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (3/4/2006)
  Steak Diane w B&R. Dark young color, Good syrah gaminess w/o brett. Very good intensity. Good wine. Last bottle , though could certainly last and perhaps improve
• 1990 E. Guigal Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (10/20/2005)
  Still quite youthful in color, very good syrah fruit with just enough funk; no hurry to drink full bottles.

[David M. Bueker]

I've heard great things about the '90 Guigals. Of course my buying coincided with the good, but not great 1995 vintage. Alas my mis-spent, nearly teetotaling years from age 23-26.

[Jenise]

We've been invited to dinner tonight, she's serving some kind of chicken. Maybe I'll take that Hermitage along. One of the other guests recently bought a case of the 03 Guigal Crozes Hermitage, so at least there's some label-awareness there.

[David M. Bueker]

Oh gosh...the '03 Guigal Crozes - I just had it. It tastes like tannic Beaujolais on steroids and human growth hormone.

[Jenise]

Oh gosh...the '03 Guigal Crozes - I just had it. It tastes like tannic Beaujolais on steroids and human growth hormone.

Human growth hormone? That's FUNNY. I didn't hate it, but it's certainly very Californicated. That particular friend, and his buddy who bought a case each, are all-California in their tastes and experience, so it makes total sense that they would find it appealing. I figure if it piques their interest in French wines, that's a good thing.

Anyway, I opened the 95 G Hermitage last night, and it was just as you say. Great nose, not a lot of flavor, tired. It was a good time to open and send it on its way.

[David M. Bueker]

Glad to be of service.

And why do we want California types drinking French wine?

Guigal had access to better grape sources before a lot of domaines started producing their own wines. In a way, his success sort of limited his own future production.

[David M. Bueker]

Guigal had access to better grape sources before a lot of domaines started producing their own wines. In a way, his success sort of limited his own future production.

Very good point. I had sort of blocked that out.

David,
I have just one bottle of the 2002 Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Spatlese. What you would advise as the window for opening this? Is it ready to show some of its charm now?

[David M. Bueker]

Give the Felsenberg another year and then go for it. I'm opening some in 2008 as part of a big tasting.

Okay, thanks.

[Jenise]

Glad to be of service.

And why do we want California types drinking French wine?

Hey, it's even worse; I'm an ENABLER. One of the guys gives me $300 a month to buy wine for him.

[David M. Bueker]

That I can forgive, as I know the joys of buying wine with other people's money!