WTN: 04 and 05 Marechal Cuvee Gravel and others

Some wines I've tried over the last two weeks.

1997 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Very nice bottle. Mature aromas of cigar tobacco mixed with Cab cassis fruit. Very pure core of ripe red fruit in the mouth, no noticible heat or oak. Long finish with polished tannins. This kept improving over several hours and based on this bottle has plenty of life yet. Elegant and understated style, but really delicious.


2004 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Bourgogne Cuvée Gravel

Cherry liquor, rose petals, mushroom broth, and the faintest hint of barnyard in the nose. Nice silky palate, mix of red and black fruits. About a year ago this seemed firm and even a little angry, but the acidity seems to have settled down and it is very good right now. A great match with chicken seasoned with rosemary and dijon mustard and a side of brown rice with porcinis. Not as much forward fruit or brown spice as the 05 Cuvee Gravel shows right now. A fine Bourgogne.



2004 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône

This was a very different experience than other Cotes du Rhone wines I've tried. Aromatically it reminded me of more of a Burgundy or even Beaujolais without the obvious fruitiness of a Beaujolais, but a freshness combined with some Rhone herbs. In the mouth also a lighter, lower alcohol, lower extract impression than the usual grenache CdR blends. It had a nice combination of flavors (red cherry, orange peel, leather, hint of licorice) without heaviness, and seems very food friendly. $10, very decent value if your tastes run to less concentrated/dense style wines.


2005 Jean-Pierre et Jean-Francois Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin Anne de la Biguerne France, Savoie

The nose is awash with wet river rocks, very minerally. Midweight, with yellow apples and fresh citrus acids in the mouth. Great match with steamed Chinese dumplings and also pretty good with grilled Ahi tuna.



2005 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Bourgogne Cuvée Gravel

Very enjoyable. Expressive nose with brown spices and cinnamon together with red fruits, fresh macerated cherries that finishes with a slight savoury bitterness. Fine tannins and bright acidity, very drinkable now but has the depth and structure to age. The only tiny nit is the finish right now is a little short. I bet it will lenghthen with time.



2002 Domaine Barmes Buecher Gewürztraminer Steingrubler Alsace

Deep golden color. The nose is tight, a little lychee fruit, cashew nut oil, and after a bit some grey slate minerals. Sweet and somewhat oily palate, better with a slight chill. I think this is in an awkward place now, beyond primary fruit and not quite mature. The 14% abv shows towards the finish. Big and complex, but for me not easy to drink.



2000 Heinrich Mayr-Nusser Lagrein Alto Adige - Südtirol Riserva

The nose was a little mute for the first hour. Damp earth, tart mountain berries, red plum skin, silky mouthfeel, tannins seem resolved, still nice acidity. Later smoke and graphite minerals show. This seems fully mature right now, but the acidity and roundness of the fruit makes me think it should drink well for a couple of years. Very nice.



2004 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux Loire

Dark red but translucent color. Classic Chinon nose with blackberry leaf, red raspberry, thyme, and wet cement. Firm acidity, solid middle with dark fruit and minerals, dusty tannins with a long finish. Stylish and good typicity. 13% abv. Nice now but with the concentration and balance to age well. I'm definitely buying more.


2004 Argiolas Cannonau di Sardegna Costera Italy, Sardinia

Leather and dark sweet plum nose, with some black pepper and garrigue. Earthy, grenache kirsch flavors, black licorice, big bodied with lots of tannin towards the finish. Noticeable French oak, and just a little towards the soft side. Very different and great value for the money. MJ liked it better than me. Reminds me of a Chateauneuf du Pape.



2005 Domaine de Colette Régnié Sélection Vieilles Vignes Beaujolais

Beaujolais at its best should be simply pleasure without a lot of thought and this bottle provides that. Pure red strawberries, light powdery tannins and just enough acidity to give it some zip. Great with grilled burgers. Nice for current drinking and over the next year or so.

Cheers,
Marc

If you like the '05 Gravel you really should try the Savigny VV. A distinct step up. I'm told the Savigny 'Lavieres' is another big step up from that but haven't tried it yet.

Thanks Jay. I liked the 2002 Lavieres a lot so I will order a couple bottles of the 2005. Claude Kolm also had nice things to say about the Lavieres in his newsletter.

I thought the Cuvee Gravel was really good this year, a great '1er cru' kind of nose, but maybe a little short on the finish.

Yes, I like the Gravel quite a bit until I had the SLB VV immediately after it at which point it seemed a little rough in comparison.

I believe that Texier Cotes-du-Rhone is made with 20% white grapes.

I believe that Texier Cotes-du-Rhone is made with 20% white grapes.

Thanks Jake, that explains a lot of what I was tasting. I am curious what types of white and red grapes are used in the blend. Does Texier use white grapes in his other red bottlings?

Also I think it is interesting to see a wine maker going the opposite direction of the trend where bigger and darker means better (or at least higher scoring).

Best,
Marc

I believe I remember Eric pouring me a bottling of a 2003 all-Grenache CdP cuvee that was raised in an upright, not-topped-up 500L barrel. Unfortunately, it was about wine 200 of 250, so I don't remember much about it. But he goes his own way, for sure.

Yes, I like the Gravel quite a bit until I had the SLB VV immediately after it at which point it seemed a little rough in comparison.

Jay, Marc (or others)...how does the '05 Marechal Chorey les Beaune compare to either Gravel or the SLB VV?

Yes, I like the Gravel quite a bit until I had the SLB VV immediately after it at which point it seemed a little rough in comparison.

Jay, Marc (or others)...how does the '05 Marechal Chorey les Beaune compare to either Gravel or the SLB VV?

Bill, I haven't tried the 05 Marechal Chorey yet. Greg del Piaz posted a positive note on the wine not too long ago on WT. The 04 Chorey was a beauty, very fragrant nose, a little rustic but good honest Burg. I am planning to try one when it becomes available. I hope you post your impression if you do try it.

I like Drouhin CLB too, even the 2003 version. Still some decent values there in Beaune.

Best,
Marc

Thanks, Marc!