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WTN: Mostly Syrah, plus a Montevertine and a Zilliken

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Mostly Syrah, plus a Montevertine and a Zilliken

by Dale Williams » Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:52 pm

In our celebration of true grilling weather, Betsy made burgers for Wednesday. I grilled them, and then we enjoyed with a Syrah. I had intended to bring up the 2001 Edmunds St. John Wylie-Fenaughty, but realized at last minute I had brought up the regular 2001 Edmunds St. John California Syrah instead. My cellar is still at its winter temp of about 50°, rather than drink a way too cold W-F I just opened the CA Syrah. Good fresh acidity, smoke and pepper over a body of black raspberry fruit. I took the remainder to a Syrah tasting on Friday, just a hint of oxidation but really holding strong, with a bacon note. Quite nice. B+

Thursday Betsy decided to dash back between a rehearsal and a performance, and threw together a favorite pasta sauce, Mario Batali's parsnip-pancetta (from a post that Jenise made). We had that with a broccoli rabe/pea combo, and the 2004 Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo. Fresh and lively, cherry and dried cherry fruit with accents of coffee and herbs. Develops throughout the night, all sips are good, but the last is best (though on day 2 it's pretty well shot). Good stuff, B+/A-

Friday I was joining the guys for our little local tasting group. I had skipped lunch, and knew the 8 pm group would only have snacky stuff. So grilled a couple of chicken with Asiago and mushroom sausages, with leftover pea/rabe combo. I had opened a bottle of the 2004 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett a few nights earlier, and had a small glass each evening. On day 4 this is still going strong. Incredible piercing acidity, yet without seeming sharp. Peach and nectarine fruit, a base of slate, wildflowers and a hint of mint. How can a wine have bright acidity, yet still feel creamy? I liked the 2005 of this, but this rocks. A-/A

So I went join my compadres, for a blind tasting of Syrah/Shiraz. This was one of my better nights guessing, but there were no tough wines - everything was typical (verging on stereotypical). A great group of guys, good to be back together after a couple month hiatus.

First wine was rather juicy and fruit forward, red berry fruit with a hint of spice. Seems hot on nose,but not on palate. A little sweet for me. I'm going to say Australia but someone beats me to it, but they're wrong. So Fred and I both guess California and we're right,the 2000 Kynsi Paragon Vineyard Syrah (Edna Valley). B/B-

Next up is a wine with a rather aromatic nose, flowers with some earth. Medium bodied, dark berry fruit. Pretty obviously French, I go out on a limb with Cote-Rotie and am right. I liked at first, but later pour seemed a bit faded- surprisingly quick for a young C-R. It's the 2001 Louis Drevon Cote-Rotie. B

Holy s$%t, what is this in my glass? First sniffing impression is a blueberry milkshake, but a taste reveals someone has liquified some blackberry jam (with a side of buttered toast). Very dense, high alcohol, heavy. I guess Australia, yep, the 2003 Henry's Drive Shiraz (Padthaway). Not my style at all. This is a pretty informal group, a chance for the guys to get together, not real geeky -no dump buckets. I don't ever remember not just finishing my small initial pour (except for corked wines) with this group, but I go find the sink for this one. Obviously some others find it more appealing (but half bottle left at end of night, luckily the host is one who likes the best). D

My wine is next, so no guesses from me, but group gets Rhone quickly. The 1996 Chapoutier "La Sizeranne" Hermitage. Lots of earth and a hint of barnyard on the nose (someone else thought more than a hint, but this was light to me), tannins could use a little more time to fully resolve, good length. Better showing than last time I had this. Actually fairly nice, except the fruit had a little bit of a roasted note to it, surprising for a year I didn't think was especially hot. Still, nice enough. B

This is very fruit forward also, but not as heavy as the Henrys Drive. The little sweet edge and the jammy fruit leads me again to Australia, I'm right. The 2003 Lengs and Cooter "The Victor" Shiraz is pretty clearly New World, but seems fresher and lighter than the ponderous other Aussie. A little mint/menthol edge. B-/B

Last wine isn't blind, an inexpensive Syrah from the Languedoc. The 2003 Jean-Luc Colombo "La Violette" would have been my wrong guess of the night if blind -would have definitely been in New World. Overripe red fruit, not as oozy as the HD but a similar feeling of sluggishness (though in fairness to the HD the La Violette suffered from a short finish which one couldn't accuse the Padthaway of). C

My favorite wine of the night was probably the leftover ESJ, but good to be with the guys.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Jay Miller

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Re: WTN: Mostly Syrah, plus a Montevertine and a Zilliken

by Jay Miller » Sat Mar 31, 2007 3:26 pm

Thanks for the note on the Pian del Ciampolo Dale. I just picked one up at Chambers St. so I'm looking forward to it even more now. Maybe tonight...
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Marc D

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Re: WTN: Mostly Syrah, plus a Montevertine and a Zilliken

by Marc D » Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:29 pm

I am curious how the 2004 Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo compares to the 2002, which was the last one I tried. The 02 was a light bodied beauty. I guess some may say it was not very concentrated, but I really enjoyed it, and found it was pretty versatile with food.
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Re: WTN: Mostly Syrah, plus a Montevertine and a Zilliken

by Jay Miller » Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:58 am

The '02 was nice but I preferred the '99 which had a touch more intensity (though not weight) to it.

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