Stuart was in town for some reason or another, so we rustled up Nicos and met at the Persian restaurant which was a logical choice because they had approximately one vegetarian dish for Stuart and I to eat. They did boast free corkage, although they discreetly grumbled that usually they only allow one bottle per person and apparently we had exceeded that limit. Don't see what difference it makes to them as there was no alcohol on their menu, but we didn't let that distract us from the more pressing task at hand of convivial socializing, and of course drinking.
We started with the 1996 and the 1990 Luneau Papin Le L D'Or, which was very interesting because the 96 showed broad and golden while the 90 showed fresh lively citrusy and minerally. Now that may not necessarily seem interesting to you at first glance, but the last time I tasted these wines they showed exactly the opposite, i.e. fresh lively and citrusy for the 96 and broad and golden for the 90. One could suspect some sort of complex Muscadet fraud, but it is probably easier to assume that the wonderful variation of delicate wine was at play. The joys of our hobby. And they were both great fun, so..
Onto the red wines with 1998 JM Bouley Volnay Les Caillerets which was drinking very nicely to my tastes, a lovely crisp carriage of finely etched red Burgundy, with the volatile acid swinging perhaps a bit high, but not so much that I couldn't enjoy the delicate transfer of flavors and sensations across my mouth.
Pouring the 1999 JM Bouley Pommard Les Rugiens was a different story as the brett was flying out of the glass and at first it was a bit too sweaty for my tastes (other Rhone lovers at the table may have disagreed). Still, there was plenty of material underneath, and it continued to fill in over time, showing the best late at night when I returned home. A wine that needs more age to show its best no doubt.
I was intrigued to taste the 1998 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux because Stuart had mentioned a recent bottle that seemed at its peak. But, this was showing younger, perhaps because it hadn't suffered a voyage around the world, who knows, but it was very structured and fierce with piercing tannins, although a nice brooding depth that certainly gave me optimism for its future.
Moving a bit further south the 1999 and 1995 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape were not that far removed from the Pommards. Especially the 1995 which was spicy crisp and structured with somewhat of a regal northern-looking feel, but not showing all it had at the moment. The surprise of the duo was the 1999, which was showing better, quite supple, even "richer" to my tastes, and its layers were unfurled for all to see, caress, and enjoy.
Then the 2003 Foreau Vouvray Moelleux Reserve was a real treat. Already in the glass I could sense the sweet intensity and then it just rolled and rolled and rolled around the palate with such succulent juicy fruit. It was so robust that it stood up to the pistachio ice cream, not backing down one bit, and was also the only bottle we completely drained. One could pick nits and say that it was a tad heavy on the finish, but overall it was not a heavy wine, and plenty of debates flew around the table concerning the aging potential. For the future to see. For the present to enjoy.
And we were off..
