WTN: 2001 Ch. Beaumont; 1999 Ch. Lagrange - great QPRs

I have recently added Thursday to my weekend, so that I can drink three Bordeaux a week instead of two. I have also changed my drinking strategy slightly, drinking mostly Cru Bourgeois on Thursday and Friday, and sometimes experimenting with something other than Bordeaux on Thursday. Then on Saturday my wife Lynn and I drink a Classed Growth. By setting up the evening with 'lesser' wines on the previous two evenings, even average Classed Growths pick up weight by comparison. Most of the time I get what I expect and don’t bother to post anything about all these ‘normal’ wines.

After a very normal 2001 Larose Trintaudon on Thursday, opened a 2001 Chateau Beaumont on Friday. What a delightful surprise! Exotic, very earthy and dark nose with hints of tobacco and cedar. I got the sense that the darkness was suppressing other elements, and they sort of all came out as a wonderful mid-palate of exquisite cab morphed into a firecracker finish of nutmeg, spice and other things nice. Hopefully I can find a case of this Beaumont.

Then on Saturday, a 1999 Chateau Lagrange surprise was even greater. I can’t do justice to describe a quintessential Bordeaux, but I know it when I taste it. It’s that sensation that you got when you drank your very first real Bordeaux. There is nothing like Bordeauxness. This Lagrange had that effect. Cedar, herbs, silky, spice on the finish, which reappears upon every exhale. Burnt earth, black fruit and that sweet, lead pencil effect I find with good 1997 Bordeaux.

In case you haven't seen it, Chris Kissack has a nice article on Beaumont on his site. Now that wine-journal is subscription, it seems that WineDoctor is the best free site for Bordeaux.

Though it certainly seems so from your note, you are talking of the St.-Julien Lagrange rather than the Pomerol one?

-O-

In case you haven't seen it, Chris Kissack has a nice article on Beaumont on his site. Now that wine-journal is subscription, it seems that WineDoctor is the best free site for Bordeaux.

Though it certainly seems so from your note, you are talking of the St.-Julien Lagrange rather than the Pomerol one?

-O-

Thanks, Otto.

Sorry, I should have specified St-Julien. Just looked up Parker's comments on the 1999. He said the oak might overrun its meager fruit soon, and that the tannins are dry and astringent; but that the wine had nice purity and texture and could have elegance potential. Hope I can find a case. Parker's faint praise might have helped maintain availability and modest cost.

Covert

I haven't seen the 2001 Larose Trintaudon around. I still have one bottle of the 2000, and it is probably time to open it. I haven't bought any of these in a few years.

Covert - did you get into the city? Dinner at The Harrison, and checking out the smoke situation at GT?

[Jenise]

Covert,

Beaumont's one of those many Bordeauxs that have eluded me. As I've said before, I live in Bordeaux Siberia, even for houses like Beaumont who turn out tons of wine (40,000 cases of their premium lable, and there's apparently a second label too), and I've not had a compelling reason to order these from my usual sources out of state. I like your review, though; thanks for bringing this one to my attention. "Exotic" and "earthy" are compelling descriptors.

I haven't seen the 2001 Larose Trintaudon around. I still have one bottle of the 2000, and it is probably time to open it. I haven't bought any of these in a few years.

Covert - did you get into the city? Dinner at The Harrison, and checking out the smoke situation at GT?

Hi Diane,

We are going on 14th. I petitioned for Annisa, but Lynn stuck by her guns on The Harrison (in truth, I think she is forming an unconscious link with an old boyfriend of hers, named Harrison). We don't negotiate restaurants: Lynn picks them, as well as what we eat for lunch and dinner at home. In fact, we don't negotiate on anything; we mutally agree on what is her providence and what is mine. I pick the wines we buy and even what kind of car Lynn drives, just so you don't think I'm uxorious to a fault.

Maybe I will have another life in which I get to pick the restaurants. Then I would defer to you often. I know from some of the restaurants you have liked that I have also tried, that I would never be disappointed with any of your picks.

I will try to get an answer regarding the smoke.

I wasn't impressed with 2001 Larose Trintaudon, but there is nothing wrong with it. I liked the '99 and thought that the 2000 was okay. But there are so many fantastic Cru Bourgeois when you start checking them out, that some of the old standbys like LT and Greysac can become ordinary. But we did like the 2003 Greysac.

Covert

Covert,

Beaumont's one of those many Bordeauxs that have eluded me. As I've said before, I live in Bordeaux Siberia, even for houses like Beaumont who turn out tons of wine (40,000 cases of their premium lable, and there's apparently a second label too), and I've not had a compelling reason to order these from my usual sources out of state. I like your review, though; thanks for bringing this one to my attention. "Exotic" and "earthy" are compelling descriptors.

Hi Jenise,

I'm glad you posted this so I can share something related with you. I probably wouldn't have otherwise posted it.

I mentioned a hypothesis a while back that 2ème vin du Château might hark us back to traditional wines no longer possible under the watchful eye of Robert Parker Jr. I reasoned that certain plots of a Cru Classé vineyard might yield certain gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate; but, rather than to sell such grapes for distillation or to cooperatives, a vintner might use them in a second wine; which, if from a lowly Cinquième Cru, wouldn't even be tasted by RP. Second wines from top growths are tasted and usually reflect American tastes.

Also, second wines are vinified for near-term drinking, and thus are not as concentrated, possibly resembling some of the older, more traditional clarets.

Enter 1999 Les Alleés De Cantemerle. Already amber on the edges and wonderfully funky, earthy, - even dirty, but perfumy. Since I have drunk at least a dozen 1999 Cantemerle Cru Classé for reference, I bought the 2ème to lend evidence to my hypothesis, and Lynn and I drank it on Saturday night. What a delight! And cheap. I am heading to wine searcher at this very moment.

Covert

I haven't seen the 2001 Larose Trintaudon around. I still have one bottle of the 2000, and it is probably time to open it. I haven't bought any of these in a few years.

Hi again on this one, Diane. We opened our second bottle (of a case) of the 2001 LT last night and found it much more interesting than the first. I guess even a modest young Medoc can suffer considerable travel shock. We opened the first bottle after only a couple of weeks post shipment. This second bottle was quite tasty with some nice vanilla and perfume.

I am impressed with how much it tastes like Merlot. Quite red. And I am beginning to associate the particular hue of purple it has with Merlot.

A good deal for less than $15.

Covert

I mentioned a hypothesis a while back that 2ème vin du Château might hark us back to traditional wines no longer possible under the watchful eye of Robert Parker Jr. I reasoned that certain plots of a Cru Classé vineyard might yield certain gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate; but, rather than to sell such grapes for distillation or to cooperatives, a vintner might use them in a second wine; which, if from a lowly Cinquième Cru, wouldn't even be tasted by RP. Second wines from top growths are tasted and usually reflect American tastes.

Also, second wines are vinified for near-term drinking, and thus are not as concentrated, possibly resembling some of the older, more traditional clarets.

Interesting theory, but I don't think so as a rule(I haven't tasted the Allees). While it's true that 2nd labels are generally not as concentrated as the marquee label, my experience is not that they in any way resemble "more traditional clarets." If anything, from my limited experience, second labels are more likely to be mistaken for new world wines. Because they are intended for immediate drinking, the tannins are generally quite soft, a far cry from the traditonal Bordeaux that demanded 15 years of cellaring. In most cases, they see less oak than the grand vin (based partly on cost and partly on idea that they don't have time to integrate the oak), but low/no new oak is also generally true of Bordeaux Sup. AC, lesser cru bourg., etc. But like the 2nds of 5th growths, those wines don't neccessarily resemble the grand vins of Bordeaux of old.

I also find it questionable the idea that there are "gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate." Could you name the terroir characteristics that so repulse Americans?

I mentioned a hypothesis a while back that 2ème vin du Château might hark us back to traditional wines no longer possible under the watchful eye of Robert Parker Jr. I reasoned that certain plots of a Cru Classé vineyard might yield certain gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate; but, rather than to sell such grapes for distillation or to cooperatives, a vintner might use them in a second wine; which, if from a lowly Cinquième Cru, wouldn't even be tasted by RP. Second wines from top growths are tasted and usually reflect American tastes.

Also, second wines are vinified for near-term drinking, and thus are not as concentrated, possibly resembling some of the older, more traditional clarets.

Interesting theory, but I don't think so as a rule(I haven't tasted the Allees). While it's true that 2nd labels are generally not as concentrated as the marquee label, my experience is not that they in any way resemble "more traditional clarets." If anything, from my limited experience, second labels are more likely to be mistaken for new world wines. Because they are intended for immediate drinking, the tannins are generally quite soft, a far cry from the traditonal Bordeaux that demanded 15 years of cellaring. In most cases, they see less oak than the grand vin (based partly on cost and partly on idea that they don't have time to integrate the oak), but low/no new oak is also generally true of Bordeaux Sup. AC, lesser cru bourg., etc. But like the 2nds of 5th growths, those wines don't neccessarily resemble the grand vins of Bordeaux of old.

I also find it questionable the idea that there are "gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate." Could you name the terroir characteristics that so repulse Americans?

I mentioned a hypothesis a while back that 2ème vin du Château might hark us back to traditional wines no longer possible under the watchful eye of Robert Parker Jr. I reasoned that certain plots of a Cru Classé vineyard might yield certain gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate; but, rather than to sell such grapes for distillation or to cooperatives, a vintner might use them in a second wine; which, if from a lowly Cinquième Cru, wouldn't even be tasted by RP. Second wines from top growths are tasted and usually reflect American tastes.

Also, second wines are vinified for near-term drinking, and thus are not as concentrated, possibly resembling some of the older, more traditional clarets.

Interesting theory, but I don't think so as a rule(I haven't tasted the Allees). While it's true that 2nd labels are generally not as concentrated as the marquee label, my experience is not that they in any way resemble "more traditional clarets." If anything, from my limited experience, second labels are more likely to be mistaken for new world wines. Because they are intended for immediate drinking, the tannins are generally quite soft, a far cry from the traditonal Bordeaux that demanded 15 years of cellaring. In most cases, they see less oak than the grand vin (based partly on cost and partly on idea that they don't have time to integrate the oak), but low/no new oak is also generally true of Bordeaux Sup. AC, lesser cru bourg., etc. But like the 2nds of 5th growths, those wines don't neccessarily resemble the grand vins of Bordeaux of old.

I also find it questionable the idea that there are "gout de terroir funks and interests that would be repugnant to the American palate." Could you name the terroir characteristics that so repulse Americans?

Dale,

I know, you mentioned your position the last time that I made this claim. And I very much agree regarding the light tannins. But I read that old style clarets were less concentrated, like second wines. Could be wrong. I plan to talk with a couple of Bordeaux property owners regarding the potential funks and interests in grapes rejected from the grand vins before I voice this kind of hypothesis again.

I am purposely being contentious when I generalize about Americans. I know that the Americans on this Forum don't have a problem with interesting flavors, and I know that your friends do not fit the category that I am denigrating. But almost all of the people that I know personally do. I try not to let these people into my house, but sometimes I have to entertain them for business reasons. Except for one Italian, and a couple of people I met at the Friends Lake Inn during a wine dinner there, I have never run across a single American who didn't reject the slightest hint of what I would call earth, or leather, or barnyard, or mushroom, or underbrush, or creosote, etc., etc., etc. But then, I live in the sticks compared to you. I shouldn't complain, however, because I often ended up finishing their glasses of wine, just like the tomalley and roe in their lobsters.

Covert

Covert - I have come across bottle variation on the 2000 Larose Trintaudon. The first one I had was simply okay, and for that I was disappointed. However, the second bottle, maybe a year ago, was a surprise. I found complexity in this low level Bordeaux. I have one more bottle, and I will check in on it soon.

Maybe I will have another life in which I get to pick the restaurants. Then I would defer to you often. I know from some of the restaurants you have liked that I have also tried, that I would never be disappointed with any of your picks.

One to file away for your other life is Trestle on Tenth, opened by a former chef at Union Square Cafe, and located diagonally across from Red Cat. It's a little quirky, with an interesting wine list of mostly smaller producers. I stumbled upon the place at lunchtime after shopping at the Chelsea Marketplace. I had a nice trout with bok choy drizzled with a mustard vinaigrette and sipped a glass of a (little too) simple 2005 red Burgundy.

One to file away for your other life is Trestle on Tenth, opened by a former chef at Union Square Cafe, and located diagonally across from Red Cat. It's a little quirky, with an interesting wine list of mostly smaller producers. I stumbled upon the place at lunchtime after shopping at the Chelsea Marketplace. I had a nice trout with bok choy drizzled with a mustard vinaigrette and sipped a glass of a (little too) simple 2005 red Burgundy.

Noted in my book. Thanks! That one sounds like fun. And the bok choy dish is the kind of thing we would definitely order. So many restaurants, so little time. Why can't I just hit the lottery so that we could simply spend a couple of months a year doing nothing but dining in The City while reading books about Paris in anticipation to my next couple of months spent there, reading...etc? That comment was influenced by this last weekend's reading of Maugham's 'The Magician', which takes place in fin de seicle Paris, with a lot of dining stories. My Adirondack town's librarian recommended it to me without knowing a thing about me. (At least I couldn't imagine how she could.) I took it to be polite and then really enjoyed it.

Covert

[David M. Bueker]

Of course if we're discussing the second label of Las Cases (Clos de Marquis) or perhaps Latour (Forts de Latour) then there will still be a great degree of refinement with some level of earlier drinkability. For Cantemerle, a chateau that has underperformed for years and only recently begun to make good wine again (the 2000, 2001 and 2002 are all pretty good juice to my taste) a second wine would perhaps show some funky earthy nuances (and not much else) because the winemaking/vineyard management was just not that good.

I drink a lot of wines with some earthy elements (e.g. Edmunds St. John (Yum!!), traditional Chateauneuf, Pinot) with all sorts of folks and find general acceptance of those characteristics as long as they are in balance with the overall aromatic/flavor profile of the wine. When they dominate the wine then people (including me) get turned off.

I drink a lot of wines with some earthy elements (e.g. Edmunds St. John (Yum!!), traditional Chateauneuf, Pinot) with all sorts of folks and find general acceptance of those characteristics as long as they are in balance with the overall aromatic/flavor profile of the wine. When they dominate the wine then people (including me) get turned off.

I promise I won't try to come to your wine dinners, either.