A February 2007 Sunday afternoon at Albino’s and Andrea’s place, with Dani and Oliver in attendance. Later, Rainer and some of his friends, who had just returned from a Mosel trip (or should I say, shopping spree?), Nick, Cornel and his girlfriend Jeanette joined us for dinner. The German Rieslings are from wineries they visited during that trip.
Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà 1999
Thanks to Oliver. I am, theoretically at least, a huge fan of the terroir (simply, of course, because I am a terroir fanatic, if not a terroirist), and prompted Oliver to bring this along after I claimed it needed a Bruno Giacosa to buy a parcel in this supposed-to-be (by local conoscenti, that is) finest Barbaresco vineyard (we have lately had his 1998 and 2001). I should mention I also said something to the extent in that discussion that no one ever seems to have made a Rabajà that allows the terroir to truly show. Needless to emphasize perhaps, I have tasted quite a few examples from different producers (and eras), none nearly on the level of Bruno Giacosa’s. This, by the way, is about as inexpensive as Rabajà gets: 25 Dollars. Plummy garnet-ruby, medium watery orange at the rim. Lightly macerated rose petal, faint leather polish, pepper and nutty oak on the nose. Medium weight and alcohol, a bit dry, the oak aging seemingly having dried out the fruit to some extent. The tannin is on the dry side of the spectrum as well and lacks depth and complexity of flavour. A suggestion of blueberry sweetness, some black pepper dust. Quite acceptable for the money, but not a wine one could return to after tasting the ones that followed. Rating: 86
Bruno Rocca Barbaresco Rabajà 2000
Thanks to Oliver. Full ruby-red, soft black reflections. Fresher than the 1999 Cortese (despite the respective vintages) on the nose, a little violet and blackcurrant to rose petal and blood orange. More cut and liveliness on the palate, too, baffling almost for a 2000, as is the wine resistance to oxidation in the decanter. Nice body, impressively racy tannin, faint polish note to some tar. Mouthwatering acidity (rare in a 2000). Good length. The terroir expression is not bad at all (again, especially for the vintage), although not on the deeply fruity Bruno Giacosa side of the spectrum, rather freshly orangey-minerally. Some petits fruits rouges that are somewhat reminiscent of a Romanée Saint-Vivant – but not a particularly Burgundian Nebbiolo. Faint graphite note. Ultimately a more impressive exponent of its vintage than its vineyard perhaps, but tasty. I noticed Albino was not too impressed with either of the two Rabajàs tonight, though. Rating: 90/91?
Castello di Ama Merlot L’Apparita 1990
A bottle Dani and I once bought at auction. Absolutely pristine, significantly better than the one I had at the Apparita & Masseto Vertical in Zürich in January 2002, a wonderful bottle that reminded me of why I used to buy these two famous Italian Merlots. Deep plummy ruby-black, still opaque at the center. Intensely fruity, mild sweetness and tannin, gorgeously round and satiny, harmonious and amazingly youthful, absolutely no bitterness or disintegrated oak, all Merlot opulence with a fine rosemary top note, mouthfilling and rather complex, long and balanced finish. Not the depth or soil notes of a top Pomerol but stylish, and it must be said, easily worth the price it cost at release. Makes me sad Castello di Ama produced mostly overblown (and overpriced!) versions in recent years. Rating: 93
Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico IV 1996
Thanks to Oliver. Faintly pruney ruby-black, opaque at the center, ruby at the rim. Somewhat closed at this stage, of course, showing little evolvement since I last tasted it in June 2001, the reason for retasting this being that it is currently being offered at a discount by a local wine merchant. Racy but also oak-induced, lightly tarry tannin, an aspect I have never particularly liked in modern Nebbiolo and that I have so far never seen subside with bottle age except in the some of Angelo Gaja’s wines. Rose-hip with cut, soft herbs, faint fennel and oregano. Firm structure, good body and length. Unfair comparison to the two Rabajàs from the perspective that 1996 may be the greatest Piedmont vintage in living memory (I am still tempted to nominate 1978, of course, plus I may never have had a bad 1971, 1964, 1961 or 1958 unless it was misstored – but seriously, there simply have not been as many top producers around back then). A very solid showing, even if that tarry barrique tannin makes me wish sometimes I could travel back in time (the Riserva-styled beauties of yesteryear seem to be becoming fewer and more costly as I am typing this). Rating: 91/92
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 1994
Contribution of mine. Opaque purple-ruby almost to the rim. Youthful, not nearly as ready as some 1994s. Highly complex, has cut, lovely Merlot sweetness to the pure Cabernet Sauvignon blackcurrant and leafy Cabernet Franc, a faint bretty horsiness, wet earth, raisins, lovely florality of violet if not pansy, an anchovy-like saltiness to minerality. Sappy tannin, mouthwatering. Very nice body, long and finesseful. Not quite the size and the opulence of the 1995, but still, I can see why some European wine critics feel the PLL is the wine of the vintage in 1994. Needs a few more years in bottle. At 25 Dollars one of the QPR buys of my lifetime. Rating: 93+?
Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Howell Mountain 1996
Thanks to Albino this time, decanted and poured in a rush. Virtually black, opaque pruney ruby-black, minuscule ruby rim. The freshest and cleanest imaginable medicinal iodine top note. Huge smoky blackberry and jammy blackcurrant, sage and caper, both some green and aged tobacco. Hugely concentrated, intense, minerally, abysmal depth. Fat, smooth, thick. Huge body. Flavourful and racy tannin. Palate-staining and long. I can only repeat myself: despite experience with a few of the ridiculously expensive trophy CalCabs, in my book this is second only to Heitz's 1985 Martha's Vineyard. Any day is a good day on which someone serves me a glass of this beauty. Awfully hard to tell, by the way, if we are committing infanticide, if Dunn’s wines mature and improve in bottle at all, in which case the 1996 may even have the potential to achieve perfection one day – the necessary ingredients all seem to be present in abundance. Rating: 96+
Martin Müllen Riesling Spätlese trocken #25 Trabacher Hühnerberg 2005
Thanks to Rainer? Medium yellow-green. Apple blossom, appley freshness with a touch of lime, some viscosity, medium-plus body for an SPL, quite tannic, good length. Not bad at all for a dry Mosel (not my favourite category from this region). Rating: ~85
Martin Müllen Riesling Spätlese** #10 Kröver Paradies 2003
Thanks to Rainer? Slightly pale yellow-green. Herbs, smoky flintstone, CO2 bubbles, faint roasted coffee. Medium body, softly sweet only, rosemary and some apple. A bit more depth than the dry 2005, a bit dry at the surface, but nicely ripe. Good freshness for a 2003. Rating: 86+?
Markus Molitor Riesling Spätlese #05 Zeltinger Himmelreich 2001
Thanks to Rainer, I guess (he likes Molitor). Medium green. Smoky slate and earth top notes, some vanilla flintstone. Firm wine of medium sweetness, healthy citrusy-appley acidity. Nicely tannic, still a bit reticent. Quite well concentrated. Rating: 86/87
Martin Müllen Riesling Beerenauslese #3038 1993
Thanks to Cornel, I believe. Medium-full yellow, faint green hue. Thick yellow spring flowers and herbs, juicy apricot, basil, walnutty tobacco, some CO2 left. Auslese Gold Capsule sweetness at best. Faint flinty honey note. Firm wine with a touch of alcoholic heat despite the fact that the label reads 10% only. Rating: 85?
Úri Borok (Vince Gergely) Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Szent Tamás 2000
Thanks to Albino. Uncorked and poured, actually a pity with this wine, one of the handful greatest 6Ps of all time, in my not-so-humble opinion (but note it sells for more than the superlative 1993 Aszúessencia did at the time!). From the great St. Tamás 1er Cru, though if I remember correctly, it is not indicated on the label. Medium-deep yellow-gold. Green tea leaves, chamomile, faint brown bread botrytis, soft creamy Crème Brûlée, faint balm mint, dried apricot of citrusy freshness (though not quite Mirabelle-like), white chocolate, sunflower oil. The loveliest little Amalfi lemon bitter note buffered by lightly green banana sweetness. Highly concentrated, viscous even for a 6P, has great body. Green tea acidity that may not especially high in this vintage, but is prettily aromatic. Extremely long on the finish. Too bad I had to leave, I would have loved to allow this to blossom in my glass. Rating: 94+?
Greetings from Switzerland, David.