No, unfortunately we’re not quite ready for the fruit in London, markets still filled with apples and pears, pears and apples, pears, apples, apples, and pears. But, in the meantime one can drink plenty of Muscadet.
2004 Guy Bossard Cuvee Classique
This is in a lovely place, ripe firm and exuberantly juicy with slight mature spicy kasha notes. The aromas are very very expressive and it lingers on the tongue much longer than one might expect considering the low price. Lovely.
2005 Guy Bossard Cuvee Classique
Not in the same lovely place as the 04, this shows crisp salty citrus without much distinction. Best drunk in large amounts with jovial company and minimal attention to the beverage.
2005 Domaine la Claretiere Muscadet (vinified by Pierre Luneau Papin)
I’m guessing this is a negociant venture, and it is respectable showing loose and brisk but firm and ripe fun. Perhaps a bit more exciting than the above 05 Bossard, but would be best enjoyed in similar circumstances.
2002 Luneau Papin Clos du Poyet
I don’t find this the slight bit controversial. Yes it is rounder and richer than most Muscadets, but it has all the pure white flower sea shell crisp you would expect from the grape, plus an intense mineral sear on the tongue that has me yelping and cheering from the start to the finish of the bottle. I paid roughly $20 at which price I would purchase again immediately, although I understand it sometimes sells for $30 at which price I would hesitate a bit.
1996 Luneau Papin Le L D’Or
This shows quite well right now, not as much material as the 95 sure, but with a little bit of air it is a lovely tight framed elegant number dancing across the palate with all the salty rocky lime flowers you could want.
1995 Luneau Papin Le L D’Or
This is a beast, shows gorgeous rich liquid Muscadet salt stones upon opening but then shuts down hard and becomes a cranky beast with the pungent flavors flying one way and the coiled structure flying another. Probably just needs age for the creamy luscious body to come into balance with the whip-cord spine and start singing harmoniously.
1993 Luneau Papin Le L D’Or
This is also in a nice place, a sleek coiled wine but with a slightly plump toasted middle that gives you something to roll around the tongue. The most damning aspect is the tart clipped finish, which means this might make a fine sip right now, but I'm not encouraged to buy more or put in the cellar. Still, each wine has its merits.
1990 Luneau Papin Le L D’Or
Golden vibrant and nutty with a fine elegant herbal thread that slips over the tongue and makes you happy to have this wine in your glass. Not as mineral or as regal as the 89, but this has lots and lots of merits.
1989 Luneau Papin Le L D’Or
Lovely balance. Exuberant flavors that leap into the skull, where crisp mineral floral dances occur while the juicy torrents gush forth. Still despite that exuberance it is so regal poised and balanced. So fine. So fine. Seems younger than the 90, or perhaps is just pursuing a different aging curve. I guess more experience is needed. And I’ll be very very happy to oblige.