WTN: Game dinner w/Tuscans, Burg, Rhone, Champs, Loire

Betsy joined me at a game dinner at Talia in Port Chester. Ross organized a nice table.

2013 Germain/ Roches Neuves Saumur Blanc Clos De L’echelier
Honied Chenin Blanc goodness, though pretty dry. Peach and meyer lemon, a little waxy note, good citrusy finish. B+

OK, on to the dinner
Fried alligator with remoulade , with saucisson sec with pickled carrots

2002 Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or
I figured Champagne works so well with fried chicken why not fried gator? And it worked. Actually a little fresher than (very good) last bottle, pear with citrus zest and hazelnut. Full, bright acids, holds up well until last dregs are consumed. A-

Wild boar ragu (with golden raisins) on pappardelle
1997 Caparzo La Casa Brunello di Montalcino
Not always a fan of 1997 BdM, but this has aged well and is not the least bit roasted. Red cherries, espresso, blood orange. Balanced and tasty. B++

1990 Campogiovanni San Felice Brunello di Montalcino
Red cherries, cedar, a little smoke and cedar. Very good but maybe not quite as vibrant as some bottles. B+

Squab (confit leg and medium rare breast) with potatoes, bacon, and onion

2022 Prieure-Roche Nuits St Georges 1er
I know this is a hyped (expensive) producer, but I’m not really feeling the groove. Black and red cherry, a little green wood (stems?), touch of animal. Opened several hours in advance but still felt closed in. B-

2008 Meo-Camuzet (Frere and Soeurs) “Perrieres” Nuits St. Georges 1er
Opened as a backup, needed more air time, but nice in a polished black fruity style (and I don’t mean polished as a pejorative), lush without being flabby. Velvety texture, long finish. B+/A-

Russian razorback wild boar strip loin with sunchoke puree and carrot
1998 Jaboulet La Chapelle Hermitage
I thought quite good, others loved, solid dark berry fruits, hot rocks,smoked meats. This isn’t tired but fully resolved tannins and moderate acids, I’d drink sooner rather than later. B+/B

2001 Redigaffi
Another generous bring that isn’t in a style that resonates with me. Plush black plum, woody tannins, somewhat dense and monolithic. I think if you like the style its a good wine, but for me the best I could do is a generous B-

For dessert they served duck fat tart with citrus custard and orange.

Fun night, fun table, met some new people. Food was excellent (chef joined us at end and was widely lauded), Betsy had a good time despite an excess of wine talk (and wine people talk).



Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was the only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

[Jenise]

Sounds like a great evening! No questions about the wine (although: what do hot rocks taste like?)--I want to hear about the alligator! Please don't say "tastes like chicken".

Can't find the reference,but many years ago I was at a dinner and had commented that a white Loire had a finish like wet river stones (not an uncommon descriptor). Next flight was red Rhone and someone said "we went from wet rocks to hot rocks". Damned if it didn't fit. Used it for Syrah a few times, it sticks in my brain and is evocative to me.

OK, couple of people did say it tastes like chicken. But different texture (a bit chewy but not all tough, think pork chop), and I'd say more veal-ish with only a tiny hint of gaminess. I have had alligator before (20-30 years ago we had a great Cajun cafe in Dobbs Ferry) but Betsy hadn't. She expected not to like,but ate every bite.