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WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 20, 2026 3:13 pm

A nice group met at Song e Napuli on the Upper West Side, theme was to be Atlo Piemonte and Barbaresco, but we made room for Valtellina as well.

House sent us some arancini

NV Marie Ledru Champagne
I’m a big Ledru fan, and liked this, but the person who brought it was last bottle of a case and it’s beginning to show its age. Pear, marzipan, chalk, but getting very nutty on back end. B/B+

2013 Paul Bara Special Club Rose Champagne
Rose special club is a rarity. Sweet cherry and raspberry, citrus peel, a little sweeter than my ideal but fun. B+

Pizzas (baby zucchini, 4 cheese, margherita)

1964 Nervi Spanna
Dried cherries, roses, leather. Alive and fun, if not real long. B/B+

1967 Produttori di Barbaresco Barbaresco
Brambly raspberry notes, balsam, rose petals. Pretty rather than powerful, fragrant and fun. Great showing for the normale (this was first year they bottled cru Riservas). A-

1974 Produttori di Barbaresco Barbaresco

Bigger than the 67 (Chris calls tough, I think just big), solid fruit, still a touch of tannin, tarry. B+/A-

Carpaccio, eggplant parmigianni, octopus salad

1990 Produttori di Barbaresco Pora Barbaresco Riserva
Ben though oxidized when first opened, but it opened nicely in glass with red fruit, black tea, and menthol. But with more air a bit disjointed. At peak B+

1990 Produttori di Barbaresco Moccagatta Barbaresco Riserva
Smelled fine when I double decanted, but got a terrible bretty aroma when first poured. But that cleared up for the most part, with only a slight hint of barnyard remaining. Macerated black cherry, spices, a bit too ripe to be classic but very good. B/B+

1996 Pertinace/Vignaioli) Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco
Seems a little flat and lacking fruit sweetness, tannic and acidic structure, could be just shut down but there’s a little ashtray note that makes me thinking holding on might be less than successful. B-/C+

Paccheri Genovese, steak, broccoli rabe

2016 Produttori di Carema Carema Riserva

Floral, hard candy/Jolly rancher, tangy and juicy. No need to hold, fun now. B+/B

2013 Proprietà Sperino Lessona
I thought this a little oaky though not supposed to see much, black cherry, violets, tangy finish. B

Chicken Milanese

2005 ArPePe Sassela Riserva
Tar and eucalyptus, red cherries, sandalwood. Fun and interesting B+/A-

2005 ArPePe Grumello Riserva
Black cherries, anise, pepper, good length. B+

Fun night; fun group.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was the only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by David M. Bueker » Fri Mar 20, 2026 5:57 pm

Very much appreciate the Produttori di Carema note!
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by Bill Spohn » Fri Mar 20, 2026 6:51 pm

I'm a big Produttori fan - have 100+ bottles but only going back to about 1990 now. (Still have the 90 Pora, Asili and Rabaja).
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Patrick Martin

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by Patrick Martin » Fri Mar 20, 2026 7:26 pm

Fun group of wines. I love old Produttori, but haven’t had any older than 1970… we had a 74 Moccagatta not long ago that was magically good.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by Mark Lipton » Fri Mar 20, 2026 10:34 pm

Yes, thanks for the note on the Produttori di Carema. I have a couple of bottles of that, so far unbreached. Sounds like I shouldn't be too hesitant.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco, Alto Piedmont, Valtellina

by Dale Williams » Tue Mar 24, 2026 2:34 pm

I think the Carema will last well, but was surprised at how well it was drinking now.

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