WTN: ESJ 1995 Durell Syrah

Here's one that demands a note. Today, I finished a monstrous piece of writing that has been, depending on how you measure it, either six months or twenty years in the making. To celebrate, I reached for one of the bottles I've been keeping upright in the cellar for just such an occasion: a Edmunds St. John 1995 Sonoma Valley Syrah, Durell Vineyard, purchased from Steve's library sale several years back. (My records show that I also have a 1996 from the same sale, as well as a 1999 that I might have bought back in the early 2000s.) Popped and poured the first small glasses and then decanted the rest gently. Over the course of three pours in about two hours, this had the arc of one of those multicolored, multistage chrysanthemum fireworks: it started with a gentle pop of flavor, mostly black fruit mixed with the high-toned, meaty tang of jerky; within half an hour, it released a big, bright, wide flower of dark red fruit and floral aromas; and then, when you thought it might be done, there was a final transformation toward blue fruit and black olive. Not only does this still have something interesting to say after more than 30 years, it has a whole story to tell.

[David M. Bueker]

Yeah, those early/mid 1990s Durell Syrahs were something else. Sad that all mine are gone.

Congrats on finishing the writing.

Yes, the Durells were my favorite ESJs (high bar, as I love most of Steve's wines), and the '95 was likely #1. Though I think I never had the '98 or '99. Congratulations on completing the writing, and thanks for lovely note.

Congrats on finishing the writing. Sounds like a pretty appropriate way to celebrate.

Thanks, all! Two chapters to go in the project, but this was the biggest and maybe most important. Being able to open another bottle like that is strong incentive to write quickly.

I wanna read it, Patchen!

Academic publishing moves slowly, but I’m hoping it will exist as an object in the world by 2027. I’ll send you a copy, Steve!