WTN: 2022 Wehrheim Birkweiler Mandelberg Weissburgunder GG

I don't often gravitate towards Weissburgunder, but the wines do have a place. Deliciously perfumed ripe crisp orchard fruit, with regal GG depth and mineral refinement. This is a wine that begs to be drunk, appreciated on its own, and paired with your dinner.

[David M. Bueker]

I don’t often gravitate to it either, though there are exceptions such as Hiedler and Boxler. They do promise that there are others.

I don’t often gravitate to it either, though there are exceptions...

I actually didn't even purchase this. It was a 'mistake' shipment. I ordered several bottles of Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling, but got a mixture of Kastanienbusch and the Weissburgunder. But no complaints because they were the same price and I had tasted the Weissburgunder at the winery, so I knew it was good. I also took it as a sign that maybe I should get over my Weissburgunder prejudice!

From this first bottle, I can see it having a place. But will see how I feel in the future.

[David M. Bueker]

Thinking about it more, Pinot Blanc/Weissburgunder is something where I often enjoy it, but rarely want more than a glass. Bottles, as a largely solo drinker, rarely get finished, as after a night or two I lose interest, with the exception of those two producers mentioned above.

Thinking about it more, Pinot Blanc/Weissburgunder is something where I often enjoy it, but rarely want more than a glass..

Yes, that is often how I think of Weissburgunder, something easy and uncomplicated to drink with a crowd.

This Wehrheim GG is obviously a more complex wine, with structure, refinement and detail to carry my interest throughout the evening. It doesn't have the energy/flavor profile of Riesling GGs, which excite me more and am more inclined to cellar. But, there is room for lots of profiles in the world! Here the orchard fruit is more reminiscent of Chardonnay, but I've found Weissburgunder more compelling than German Chardonnay, despite what the New Fans say. (Although admittedly I haven't tasted very extensively across all the new German Chardonnay offerings)

Have been following another bottle over the past two days and this is really good. Such a perfect balance of elements.

Yet, as admirable as it may be, not sure how much I need wines like this around... Tough competition and all.

[David M. Bueker]

It’s interesting when a wine is really good, but there’s just not a real place for it in your life.

I feel that way about Frappato. I really like it, but do not have a place for it.

Wait a minute, since when do they have GG Weissburgunder? I was very surprised at Wein & Glas in Berlin to see they have a Silvaner GG as well. Not that I'm complaining about other grapes getting in on the action, I had an Ortega that was surprisingly good.

Thanks for the reminder - I cellar some North American Pinot Gris but very little German Weissburgunder. Went looking and found a half bottle of 30 year old Eiswein - wonder what the chances of that being drinkable are....?

Thanks for the reminder - I cellar some North American Pinot Gris but very little German Weissburgunder.

At the risk of being too pedantic, Pinot Gris is of course Grauburgunder and Pinot Blanc is Weissburgunder. I go back and forth on which one I prefer. I think in Germany, Weissburgunder hits higher heights, but like everything, so much depends on specifics, and neither are my top choices.

Wait a minute, since when do they have GG Weissburgunder? I was very surprised at Wein & Glas in Berlin to see they have a Silvaner GG as well. Not that I'm complaining about other grapes getting in on the action...

I believe there is more Weissburgunder GG than Grauburgunder GG. And many Americans do seem to associate GG with rieslings but that's of course not the case. GG is a property of the vineyard, not the grape. (Of course with exceptions, as not all grapes can be called GG)

And, GG is technically only about vineyards for people in the VDP club. I was visiting AdamsWein in Ingelheim earlier this week, probably the best producer of Pares Spätburgunder, but she can't call hers GG because she's not in the VDP, whereas other 'lesser' Pares Spätburgunders can be GG. So it's not technically about vineyards alone, the way the French system works.

[David M. Bueker]

Wait a minute, since when do they have GG Weissburgunder? I was very surprised at Wein & Glas in Berlin to see they have a Silvaner GG as well. Not that I'm complaining about other grapes getting in on the action, I had an Ortega that was surprisingly good.

I do not recall exactly when Weissburgunder got GG rights, but it’s only eligible in some regions per the VDP website. Heck, in Baden they can make GG Chardonnay and GG Lemberger!

Heck, in Baden they can make GG Chardonnay and GG Lemberger!

Maybe Lemberger's reputation is mixed, but Chardonnay has been known to make some high quality wines in certain vineyards elsewhere too!

[David M. Bueker]

Heck, in Baden they can make GG Chardonnay and GG Lemberger!

Maybe Lemberger's reputation is mixed, but Chardonnay has been known to make some high quality wines in certain vineyards elsewhere too!

Not disputing Chardonnay’s merits, merely the placement in the firmament within Germany.