WTN: In the Rocks approaching adolescence

I’ve really fallen off the tasting note horse, but this bottle was too good not to report here: Reynvaan 2013 Walla Walla Valley Syrah In the Rocks. 13.5% abv. Some burnt tire blows off in minutes and this becomes a lively and fluid bottle: at first, all leather and funk, but then, after half an hour, a rich vein of ripe fruit cracks through and the midpalate rounds out, giving the wine layers that last and last. The bottle loses a little tension and nerve by the last glass, but that’s replaced by a generous, relaxed, velvety openness. I haven’t had many bottles of Reynvaan, maybe three before this; I think I’ve enjoyed them all, but this was on a different level. Happy autumn, wine friends.

[David M. Bueker]

A little age is a wonderful thing.

[Jenise]

Makes me happy to read this, of course. The ITR is a viognier co-ferment, and everything you describe here is why Reynvaan, of all the syrahs made in Washington, is nailing Northern Rhone like nobody else.

I think you are responsible for me having ever known about Reynvaan in the first place, Jenise, and boy do I thank you for that. Looks like I have one 2010 ITR and one 2012 Stonessence left!

[Jenise]

It will be interesting to read of your reactions to those two wines when you get to them. If I didn't explain it before, the 2010 ITR was made by Christophe Baron of Cayuse fame. Mr. Reynvaan Senior was his personal attorney; a personal relationship that resulted in Christophe's involvement and mentorship of young Matt Reynvaan who would eventually take over the winemaking. I absolutely LOVED the 2010 vintage--robust fruit, big structure. 2012 was probably Matt's first solo vintage. Although I've posted notes on twenty 2012 Reynvaans, the '12 I know I owned wasn't one of them but after my experiences with the '08 and '10 vintages I remember it being surprisingly blue-fruited and fleshy (typical of the vintage in general). Will be interesting to see how it's come around now.

I didn’t remember all that detail, so thanks, Jenise. You will hear about these bottles when I open them. I’m sorry they’re not all ITR… as I recall, I’ve preferred that bottling to the Stonessence I’ve had (in an admittedly very small and unsystematic sample.) I think I have some same-era Cayuse lying around too. Maybe I should do a comparison…

[Jenise]

Though they now make several other syrahs (and whites) the ITR and Stonessence were the originals along with The Contender, which is like the ITR but with marsanne in the co-ferment vs. viognier. Equally wonderful. The Stonessence is supposedly a best barrel situation, but strangely--to me, anyway the softest--or to put it another way, the least ballsy--of the three. I've wondered if he doesn't blend in straight syrah.