A great group gathered at Talia in Port Chester last night for a Loire Sauvignon Blanc night. Originally I think intended as a Vatan vertical, it expanded to include F. Cotat “Monts Damnes” and some Dagueneau. Two tables in the lovely upstairs room.
2004 Philipponnat “Clos des Goisses” Brut
Gingery spicy nose with peach and toast, on the palate full and long with apple, pear, and a light touch of nuttiniess. Young and strong, very good showing. A-
Flight one
2022 Dagueneau Pur Sang
Reduced at first but as it opens lots of character, lemon and lemongrass with just a hint of grass. Very young B+
2022 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Soft and ripe, some oystershell but not a ton of complexity. B
2021 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Corked, damn!
2021 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre (mag)
Light but excellent and elegant, apple and pear blossom,lime. B+/A-
Swordfish belly sashimi,delicious but the jalapeno/shallot relish overwhelmed wines (but when scraped off great dish)
Flight Two
2020 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Hot (15%) and overripe, with evident RS, not for me. C+/C
2020 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Warm, ripe, bitter herbs, better than 2020 Cotat but low bar. C+
2019 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Tight and somewhat shut down, minty, needs time. B/B- for now, good bones underneath
2019 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre (mag)
More open, young, nice floral nose, great balance. B+/B for now
Great tartine of smoked salmon with aioli on focaccia
Flight Three
2018 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Fleshy but good acids for an 19, B
2018 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre (mag)
Herbs and citrus oils, surprisingly tropical fruit, different. B/B+
A bonus Cotat for next flight (Flight 4)
2017 Francois Cotat “Culs de Beaujeau” Sancerre
Comparatively exotic and tropical, ripe fruits with fennel and flint, good length.B+
2017 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Minerally and classic, B+/A-
2017 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Nice initial approach but falls off, neighbor thought premoxed, I didn’t at first but finish kept getting shorter, B-
Roasted oysters with guanciale
Flight Five
2016 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Wild musky green fruit, minerally, quite unusual but quite tasty! B+
2015 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
A bit too ripe to be classic, but tasty with a nectarine meets mango fruit profile.B/B+
Clam pizza with lemon and chile
Flight Six
2014 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Great showing, zippy and minerally, complex, ever evolving, one of my WOTN candidates. A-
2014 Dagueneau Silex
Almost creamy texture, honied fruit,smoke and gunflint. B/B+
2014 Dagueneau Pur Sang
Limeade with a side of fresh mown grass, tangy acids keep this lively. B+
2014 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Some thought this premoxed, I thought off but not necessarily oxidized, a bitter edge made this less attractive than rest of a great flight. B-
Flight Seven
2013 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Classic, citrus, spice, oystershell, B+/A-
2013 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Citrus (lime, grapefruit) and herbs (that mint again), vibrant. A-/B+
2012 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Quite floral, with grapefruit and gooseberry, good length. B+
2012 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Murky flavors, a bit oxidized. C+
Cod cheek on squid ink risotto with spinach and uni (fave dish, great match)
Flight Eight
2011 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Lovely and long, classic Vatan, vies with 2007 for my Vatan of the night. A-
2010 Dagueneau Silex
Pure and chalky, quite long A-/B+
2010 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Some argument on premox vs cork (I was in former camp), but no one really liked. C+
Flight Nine
2008 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Steely bright and tight, seems incredibly young, not as open as a bottle last year but just as good. A-/B+
2007 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Maybe the surprise of the night from an unheralded vintage, minty, excellent, and with strong mineral finish, no hurry. A-
2005 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
I actually didn’t write anything down, but remember as showing some oxidation, a bit tired, but good length
2005 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
Riper fruit,some oxidation as well. C+/B-
Flight Ten
2002 Vatan/Clos la Neore Sancerre
This can be a classic but this bottle is oxidized, though you can sense greatness underneath. C+
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2001 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Still plenty of life here, great acidic backbone, green plum and gooseberry fruit but wet rock is the dominant note. Long, lovely, and lively. A-
2000 Francois Cotat “Monts Damnes” Sancerre
Corked!
Olive oil cake with basil gelato
There was a 500 ml of 1995 Huet “Constance” Vouvray making the rounds as I left, a quick sip seemed a bit closed in, but this can be a great wine (if not a great Constance) with some air.,
Fun (long) night, nice crew. If you only had the good Vatan bottles you’d be a happy camper!
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
