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WTN: More aged rose Champagne

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Dale Williams

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WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by Dale Williams » Fri Sep 26, 2025 7:20 pm

Took a drive last evening to New Canaan for a night of aged rose Champagne. After dealing with a tire pressure issue, was greeted by sweet dog Gordo and our generous host. Nice spread of cheeses and pate on table, as well as smoked salmon

All wines in flights of 2

NV Vincent Laval “Cumieres” Rose Brut Nature (Base Year 2020)
Deep color (it’s saignee) labeled Vincent instead of George Laval because its from his uncle’s property he recently acquired, and it hadn’t been certified organic yet (though Vincent has been doing the farming). A bit quite at first, but it morphed in glass. Crunchy red cherry and pomegranate fruit, citrus zest and stones. Really quite nice A-/B+

NV Robert Barbichon “Rose de Saignee” Extra Brut (Mag, Base Year 2019)
Also dark (also saignee) , raspberry jam and watermelon candy, fresh finish B/B+

++
NV Bruno Paillard Rose Extra Brut (base year 2017)
Exotic and bright, blood orange and rye bread, quite good. A-/B+

NV Savart “Bulle de Rose” Extra Brut NV (Base Year 2017?)
Lovely pale color, tart with some overt oak notes B

Cauliflower pizza made an appearance
++
NV Billecart-Salmon Rose Brut
This is at least ten years old, and maybe much older (it was in an auction grouping with wines basically released 1985-1995). First impression was that it was really showing it’s age with a bit of maderization and oxidation, but Sasha and John made arguments to reconsider, and it really did seem to show a nice core. B

NV Philipponnat 1522 (dg Feb 2007)
Wonderfully fresh and bright, with young strawberry fruit, but complex overlays of fresh toast, citrus zest, and cinnamon. One of my favorites A-

Crab salad on avocado was served
++
Mystery rose, served in a Taittinger bottle. Big powerful deep color, slightly lifted nose, solid red fruit. Turns out it’s the NV Andre Beaufort Ambonnay Rose (dg 2010) B/B+

NV Gatinois Rose Brut (base year 2007)

I liked this is in an herby way but turns somewhat bitter and volatile. Some others liked more C+/B-

++
2012 Billecart Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rose Brut
Elegant mousse fruity and tons of potential but somewhat tight next to the Philipponnat B+

2012 Philipponnat “1522” Rosé Extra Brut Millesime
It’s a good night for Philipponnat! Rhubarb and strawberries, herby, lovely. A-/B+

++
2005 Charles Heidsieck “Speciale Edition ” Rose (2019 dg, 2005 base)
Delicious just as it was Tuesday night, I should have looked up lineup for last night before opening it Tuesday B+

2005 Ployez-Jacquemart Rose Extra Brut Millesime
John warned there was fFunk to be wiped off before opening, solid wine good red fruits with a spicy edge B

Break for a couple of blind reds with duck breast, roast tomatoes, and green beans.

Blind #1 (mine) - clearly PN, one person was in Oregon but rest Burgundy, first guess was Cote de Beaune, once we were in Gevrey most of the (fill in the blanc)-Chambertin GCs were named before Chambertin. Guesses were older, no one expects a 2011 (or an Ilan). Light and delicate for Chambertin, but nice flavors of cherries, dried cherry, sandalwood, and forest floor. Still a bit of tannin, nice grip. A pleasant surprise (for me and everyone) 2011 Maison Ilan Chambertin B+

Blind # 2- cassis and cedar, after an errant Pomerol guess Sasha got Graves and JC got Haut-Bailly. I was thinking 90 but Sasha said 1983 or 1986 (then opted wrong).Fresh and young for ‘83 (but turns out if was a mag). 1983 Haut-Bailly (mag) B+

++
Wow, 2008 is such a great vintage:

2008 Billecart Salmon “Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon” Rose
Elegant yet powerful, cherry and rhubarb, herbs and spices. Lovely A-

2008 Philipponnat “Clos des Goisses” Juste Rose Extra Brut
Tart in a good way, snappy raspberry and green apple, citrus, flowers. A-

++
2005 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose
Blood orange, tangerine, strawberry, good but pales next to the 1999 B+

1999 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose

Wow, lovely with great texture, nervy core, long complex and fine. WOTN against stiff competition. A-/A

++
Last Flight was Billed asVintage Roses Older than 2008, which Dan wants to serve as a blind flight

NV Andre Beaufort Ambonnay Rose Bottle
Lots of citrus, caraway seed, very savory, a little heavy for me but tasty. B+
It’s a Krug Rose, from before the number editions, likely 2000 base.

2000 Dom Perignon Luminous Bottle (lots of comments about the glowing bottle)
Some nice red berry fruit but a little lactic note and a touch of oxidation. Turns out it IS the 2000 Dom Perignon B

And finally (semi-blind), a lovely Chenin, honied and long, quite lovely. 1989 Huet Clos du Bourg 1ere Trie Moelleux Vouvray (when asked to reveal Dan said the Moelleux and Sasha immediately “no it;s the Moelleux 1ere- bino!). A-/B+

Fun crew, great wines.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by David M. Bueker » Fri Sep 26, 2025 7:48 pm

Wow, I would have loved to be there for that!
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by Rahsaan » Fri Sep 26, 2025 8:23 pm

Dale Williams wrote:NV Gatinois Rose Brut (base year 2007)
I liked this is in an herby way but turns somewhat bitter and volatile. Some others liked more C+/B-


I've been enjoying the value of Gatinois, but wouldn't have thought to age one that long. Doesn't seem to be the highest in complexity. But, I haven't actually tried...
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by Bill Spohn » Sat Sep 27, 2025 3:14 pm

How many people attended? That's a lot of bubble.

I have a few NV pink bubbles. She-who-must-be-obeyed likes it - I buy her a stock of Louis Bouillot Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé so she doesn't start asking for the Champers. It is surprisingly decent!
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by Dale Williams » Mon Sep 29, 2025 7:23 am

I used to buy Gatinois many years ago, it was very well priced and good, but never aged.
Bill, there were 8 of us. Lots of leftover (and I was spitting as driving, kept to .04)
One person sent the photos of the neck codes on the Krug to friends in Europe who are Krug-phile, consensus was base vintage 1997, disgorged in 2004
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Jay Labrador

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Re: WTN: More aged rose Champagne

by Jay Labrador » Mon Sep 29, 2025 9:05 pm

What a spectacular lineup!
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.

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