Now some farmers are concerned about the effect spraying is having on the environment and humans. Also the frequent movement of spraying tractors impacts soil. Then there’s the cost of chemicals and regular spraying. This week it was reported that ‘in France, the vineyards are 3% of the agricultural area, and they are using 20% of the chemicals.’
To make Vinifera resistant to these fungal diseases and mildews means incorporating the appropriate genes from non-Vinifera vines. But such vines are known as hybrids and hybrids have a terrible reputation.
So the name PIWI is being used for such vines, results of multiple crossings over many years, that produces wines that don’t taste ‘foxy’ and don’t need any – or need only minimal - spraying. PIWI is an abbreviation from the German Pilzwiderstandsfähige: Pilz = fungus, Widerstandsfähig = resistant.
I read an article by Jancis Robinson about PIWI wines and spent most of a year trying to buy enough for a tasting for when it was my turn to present to our tasting group. At first I quickly got Floreal, Sauvignac and Cabernet Cortis varieties, then I got Solaris and Rondo but I had to use old hybrids – with resistance – for the rest: Seyval Blanc, Baco Noir & Vidal.
The September tasting of our group was mine. We had the following wines:
- Llwynhudol (Traditional Method) Sparkling Seyval Blanc 2021 (Wine of Wales)
Château Thieuley Sauvignac 2022, Vin de France
Wimbushes Vineyard Solaris 2019, St Albans, England
Les Grands Chais de France, Floreal 2023, Vin de France
Marie & Silvie Courselle ‘Sauvage’ Cabernet Cortis 2022, Vin de France
Wimbushes Vineyard Rondo 2020, St Albans, England
Henry of Pelham Old Vine Baco Noir 2020, Ontario VQA
Pillliterri Estate Icewine Vidal 2020, Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA
(Château Thieuley, producer of both Sauvignac & Cabernet Cortis, is in Bordeaux and makes Bordeaux AoC wines. These two varieties from their experimental vineyard are not approved for the Bordeaux appellation, hence Vin de France.)
The highest scoring wines were Baco Noir & Vidal which tied.
Next was Solaris then Seyval Blanc then Floreal.
So in the top 5 three were old hybrids (though the Vidal being an icewine surely helped) and there were only two varieties recognised by PIWI international.
The 2 wines from Château Thieuley tied for lowest score.
I’ve had a better sparkling Seyval Blanc, and I think it can make a cracker of a fizz.
The Sauvignac was impressive at first, but faded on mid palate and finish to nothing. It reminded some of Sauvignon Blanc, which was one of its parents.
Solaris was older then I’d have liked – seems the vineyard lost its viticulturist and isn’t currently producing – but the wine had a sleek fatness and a touch of sweetness even though it was dry.
The Floreal was tangy, but didn’t seem to offer anything beyond.
I am not sure of Cabernet Cortis, I think there was a complexity and interest to it. It was intense and rich and I liked it. I’ve got a bottle that I’ll have with dinner and give it time.
I didn’t like the Rondo, it tasted of sweet blackcurrant. I’ve had other Rondos and I didn’t like them either.
I’ve had HoP’s Baco Noir many times before and I love it. Likewise Vidal icewine.
But it was an interesting tasting; most of the vines were very young, Vidal and Baco Noir vines had the advantage of age.
For my next tasting I’ll choose a theme where sourcing the wines is easier-and less expensive.