WTN: Many Burgundies at Cafe Loup

Tuesday night John "Pappadoc" Dawson organized a nice Burgundy wine dinner, even if the crew was predominantly from Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts. We met at Cafe Loup, and a nice group shared wine, food, and friendship.

We opened with a bubbly:

NV Pierre Peters Champagne
Fresh-cut apples and fresh-baked bread, another nice showing for one of my favorite grower Champagnes. I revisited when I found my duck fritter appetizer too heavy for the white Burgs, the yeastiness was more apparent with time. Thanks Frank. B+

(note: grading is tougher than usual, to differentiate between wines better)
then to whites:
1985 Ampeau "Combettes" Puligny-Montrachet
Steely and young, lots of backbone. Amazing, but the 22 year old wine was one of the ones that seemed to need a little more time. Very nice indeed.A-
 
1992 Colin "Les Demoiselles " Puligny-Montrachet
I believe this was Marc Colin. Pear-driven fruit, a smoky/flinty note that hinted at oxidation but wasn't quite there yet. B/B+

1996 Henri Boillot "Les Charmes" Meursault
I had brought this because organizer John had loved a previous bottle. But this was a victim of the white Burgundy random oxidation disaster. Smelled clean on opening, but within seconds in the glass color darkened and an overwhelming oxidative note wins out- sherry anyone? F
(so out of 6 bottles I had of this 3 showed very well, one seemed flat and tired, one corked, one totally oxidized. 50% is not good. My current plan is to drink up my few cellared white Burgs, and only buy Bourgognes and village wines that I intend to open within 2 years).

1997 Jadot Batard-Montrachet
Nice nose of pears and flowers, decent acidity for a 1997, but I didn't think this showed a lot of Grand Cru depth. Blind I'd have pegged for nice village level Burg. B (C+/B- for level).

1999 Vincent Dancer "La Romanee" Chassagne-Montrachet
Slight oxidative notes on pouring, but they quickly mulitply. Not as bad as the Boillot, but not my cuppa. C-

2000 Carillon "Les Perrieres" Puligny-Montrachet
Very Puligny, flinty minerality under a core of apple and citrus fruit. Quite nice with great length. B+/A-

2001 Chateau de la Maltroye"La Dent du Chien" Chassagne-Montrachet
I'm not 100% sure of producer, inquiries are being made. I liked less than others. I found this a bit hollow in the middle, and short. Not flawed, just unexciting. B-

2004 Carillon "Les Perrieres" Puligny-Montrachet
Nice, but without the length of the 2000. Still, nice stony minerality. B/B+

2005 Paul Pernot "Folatieres" Puligny Montrachet
Young but open, layers  of minerality and floral aromas over a solid core. Has the full ripe fruit of the vintage, yet good acidity. B+/A-

Then to reds:
1976 Robert Ampeau Volnay-Santenots
This is showing as fairly young, with high toned red fruit and a little sandalwood. Still, I admit to being just a little disappointed, having heard great things about this, I found it nice but not profound. Some others loved it. B/B+

1985 Chateau de la Maltroye "Boudriottes" Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
A 22 year old Chassagne red gets points for just being drinkable. A bit reticent on the nose, tart red fruit on palate. Better than I expected, but not exciting. B-

1994 Mugnier Bonne Mares
This was like the other better 1994s I've had- a great nose, but a bit thin on the palate. Nose was an intoxicating blend of sandalwood, spice, and red berries, but lacked depth and focus on the palate. An A- nose and a B- palate - we'll give this a B/B+

1995 Chevillon "Bousselots" Nuits-St-George
There was a little musty note that turned conversation to possibility of TCA, but there was no fruit scalping and I think it was just bottle funk, as it disappated with time. Some earth and mushrooms, as it sat it glass it developed some weight and fruit sweetness. Pretty nice, maybe needs a bit more time. B+

1996 Rene Leclerc "Combe Aux Moines" Gevry-Chambertin
Tight, tight, tight at first. Not especially acidic for a 1996. Opens nicely after a while. Dark fruit, some earth and forest floor. B/B+

1998 Lafarge "Clos des Chenes" Volnay
Also tight at first, fairly tannic. Opens nicely, with rich black cherry fruit surrounded by woodsmoke and mineral notes. Continues to open nicely, but this does need time. My favorite red of night, but I'm always a Lafarge slut. A-/B+

1998 Jean Grivot "Les Boudots" Nuits-St-George
I don't have very clear notes on this one,.but found it an enjoyable middleweight. B

2001 Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny
I found the oak a bit distracting, though unlike some Vogues this didn't seem overextracted. Sweet cherry fruit with raspberry overtones, the vanillin is a bit much for me. I think this was the biggest stylistic divide among the group, I think others liked more than I did. Still, certainly well made and clean. B

2005 Michel Ecard "Serpentieres" Savigny-Les-Beaune
( I think I have this right- Michel is the son of Maurice, now on his own, using plots he bought from his dad. Someone else is making wines under the name Maurice Ecard). I found this simplistic and grapey at first, though it calmed a bit at end. Unsure how long ago this landed, could be bottle shock. Adds a little weight at end. B-

You know with John/Pappadoc something sweet will appear. This time it is the 2004 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese. Rich ripe tropical fruit, slatey minerality, and a whiff of damp clay. More pineappley with a honied apricot edge , I think some botrytis. Very nice way to end evening. A-

I enjoyed my rather nice pork tenderloin, though the sides and sauce (red cabbage, squash, onions) were a bit oversweet. Probably should have heeded the waiter's advice and skipped the ploddingly heavy duck fritters. But I think most folks enjoyed their food, and prices are reasonable.

A nice night, way to organize John!

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

2005 Michel Ecard "Serpentieres" Savigny-Les-Beaune I found this simplistic and grapey at first, though it calmed a bit at end..

Certainly doesn't sound very sinewy or serpent-like..

[David M. Bueker]

2005 Michel Ecard "Serpentieres" Savigny-Les-Beaune I found this simplistic and grapey at first, though it calmed a bit at end..

Certainly doesn't sound very sinewy or serpent-like..

Ridiculously young.

Nice notes, Dale. Was '98 considered a good vintage for red Burgs? I enjoyed the '98 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques I tasted the other evening but didn't think that vintage was very well regarded.

This is early for planning, but I will be in New York City June 11-13 (Monday through Wednesday). Any chance of a weeknight offline in Manhattan? Keep it in mind.

Dale,

I am curious as to why you drank the CdV and the Ecard Savign-les-Beaune so young? Would you expect that either of them would show well at this early date? I always look for some reason to drink my Burgs early, but I always end up being disappointed when I do.

I am curious as to why you drank the CdV and the Ecard Savign-les-Beaune so young? Would you expect that either of them would show well at this early date? I always look for some reason to drink my Burgs early, but I always end up being disappointed when I do.

Sam, the why for me was "because they were there." This was a rather informal offline, with everyone bringing a wine or two (mostly two). I probably would have hesitated personally at the Vogue, but it was actually quite open. As to the Ecard, I generally find Burgs pretty open and giving for first year or two after release (the '99 & '02 Ecards were very good at release). I didn't bring it (Lafarge and Boillot were mine), but was surprised by showing. But as I said, maybe travel shock.

Jane, would love to plan something. Can you post a reminder about a month in advance? I'll know my schedule better yet, and see if we can round up a crew. Early in the week is actually better, from finding restaurants that allow BYO. Let me know if you're more interested in a more upscale thing (Triomphe, 11 Mad), bistro-ish (Cafe Loup, Philip Marie, etc) or funky (Afghan Kebab!)

Oh, and '98. I think some prominent publications didn't like it. But I think there were a lot of very good wines, and the tannins (main objection) seem to be integrating well. Big GCs need more time, but village wines and some 1ers are drinking well. I think most Burgheads I know would call it good, not great. WA regards '97 as better, but not me.

Maurice Ecard has hung it up. I was equally disappointed at Michel Ecard's SLB. I found it candy-coated and over-ripe (more so than any other 2005 I've tasted).

I was equally disappointed at Michel Ecard's SLB. I found it candy-coated and over-ripe (more so than any other 2005 I've tasted).

That was my thought as well on the village wine, but didn't know if something else would be coaxed out from the Serpentine vineyard.

Dale, Thanks for responding. I will bring up the offline again as the time grows nearer. I would like either upscale or bistro but probably not too funky.