A small group gathered at my place Thursday for a look at older Tuscany (mostly Chianti).
On table smoked bay scallops, Torres chips, charcuterie ( duck rillettes, Larchmont Charcuterie pate de campagne, mousse truffe, coppa, soppressata ), cheese (Robiola, Brie, Leyenda), and bread (Betsy’s roasted garlic/gouda, baguette, and an excellent olive bread from Bread Story in Manhattan)
2002 Vilmart Grand Cellier d’Or
A bit oxidative and oaky at first, tasty but mature. It actually seemed to open up and freshen up through the night, and got longer. Pear, pastry dough, with bright floral notes, with a fine elegant mousse. I think I’ll drink these up over next couple years (with enjoyment). B+/A-
1990 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale
Muted plum and cherry fruit, lots of leather, a bit roasted. Someone referred to it as a Kendall-Jackson Chianti. B-
1990 San Felice/Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino
Black cherry, coffee beans, a touch of oak lingering, still some tannin and with balancing acids. B+/B
1971 Castillo di Meleto Chianti Classico Riserva
You know there’s a problem when the wine is beige. Volatile and maderized, it’s dead Jim. F
1971 Ricasoli/Brolio Chianti Classico
Black cherry and currant, cedary/cigarbox, pretty bright and structured. One person says it reminds him of Bordeaux (in a good way). Holds well for hours. B+
1971 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale
Leathery and mature, slightly tired black plum fruit. B-
A nice Champagne break while I finished up dinner.
2019 Sebastien Girost Champagne Dure Peine
100% Meunier, a different take, I think others liked it more than I did, good crispness but I found a little odd on finish. B
2003 Tarlant la Vigne Royale
Lovely and in a good place right now, bready, long and elegant. Fine mousse. B+/A-
Chicken cacciatore, with and without mushrooms, GF and regular spaghetti, garlicky spinach
1970 Villa Antinori Chianti Classico
Not a Riserva, but one of the best of the night. Dried cherry, black cherry, saddle leather, bright finish with lifting acids. B+/A-
1970 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino
MY WOTN. Lovely deep black cherry and plum fruit, some coffee, great finish. Even better than the 70 Barbi Riserva last year, A-
1964 Ruffino Chianti Classic Riserva Ducale di Vecchia Annata
Pretty tired, some maderization, a little interest but not much. C/C+
1961 Ruffino Chianti Classico Classico Riserva Ducale
Elegant, some nice red fruit remaining, likely better 10-15 years ago but plenty of fun. B+
2017 Cervaro della Sala
Some found too oaky, but I though it well integrated, with solid pear and lemon fruit, good hazelnutty finish. B+/B
2006 H. Lun Passito Sandbichler (Alto Adige/ Sudtirol)
Popular with some, but the some didn’t include me!. The Muscat/Muskateller notes were overpowering, it’s like being sprayed by some department store fragrance tout. Not for me. C-
1979 Horacio Simoes Single Cask Moscatel de Setubal
I liked this but not as much as the other Setubal (everyone else opposite), but didn’t write down any notes.
Horacio Simoes Moscatel de Setubal Excellent
Combination of 01/03/07 vintages Dried fruits, brown sugar, great length I really enjoyed, though 17% and not something I would buy. B+/A-
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.