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WTN: An unplanned “that bottle”

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David M. Bueker

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WTN: An unplanned “that bottle”

by David M. Bueker » Sun Feb 23, 2025 11:40 am

  • 2013 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (2/22/2025)
    This wasn’t our planned wine for Open That Bottle Night, but is sure as hell was “that bottle.” Started a little warm, as it was a last minute stand-in, but no matter it was beautiful from first pour. There was a little bit of fruit, but the fireworks were with all the yeast, bread, toast, and nut aromas and flavors. The wine was also incredibly creamy while also having pinpoint acidity. Really a magical combination. It’s hard to explain, but it doesn’t seem at all older, just that it’s living on the developed end of the spectrum. What we did discover at the end was a lot of yeast in the last glass. It looks like this bottle didn’t get the best riddling/disgorgement, so it had been sitting on the lees for an additional eight years following the disgorgement. Maybe that’s why it had such an interesting, developed texture and range of flavors.

    I have said before that I consider the 2013 Blanc de Blancs to be the best Ultramarine ever made, and this bottle further cemented my opinion.
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