A great crew gathered at my place on a rainy Sunday for a 2 part tasting, Drier Rieslin g and Mature California. We had out some chips, beet-cured gravlax, and cheeses (I had Tulip Road Foxglove and Challenhocker, Cathleen brought 5 cheeses she had gotten in Paris Friday).
2006 Corbon Blanc de Blancs Avize Champagne
What a lovely showing! Expressive nose of peach, oranges, and brioche, lovely texture, long finish. Delightful. A-/A
2017 Keller Von der Fels Riesling
I think I liked more than the table, herby and citric with a ginger and mineral finish. B+/B
2017 Eva Fricke Kiedrich Riesling
Screwcap, and there’s some reduction, but it opens and I enjoy, great acids and tangy citrus fruits. I used to see more Eva Fricke around here. B
2014 Prager Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd Riesling
Somewhat ponderous, heavy orchard fruits, candied apricot. B-
2012 Weiser-Kunstler Steffensberg Spatlese Riesling Trocken
I’m not used to premoxed Riesling, but this is a goner. Nasty nose. C-
About here I served a choucroute garni (smoked hock, ham, smoked brats, smoked pork loin, franks)
2007 Nikolaihof Von Stein Smaragd Riesling
Heavy and tired, our batting average is getting pretty low. B-
2007 Rudi Pichler Steinriegl Smaragd Riesling
I liked more than those around me. Peach and red apple, stony finish. B/B+
1983 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling Vendanges Tardive
Young and strong, pretty dry,with peach, lemon and petrol notes. Vibrant, long, and lovely. A-/A
Bubble break before we switch to reds
2018 Marguet “Verzenay” Brut Nature Champagne
I’m a Marguet fan, but don’t think I’ve seen this bottling before, and its not really showing me much charm. It feels a little tired (no sulphur), some cidery apple fruit and a bit of a flat finish. B-/C+
1987 Ch. St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon
Low expectations , met. Some maderization, but don’t think even a pristine bottle would be good. C-
1987 Swan Zinfandel
Slightly lifted nose, maraschino cherries and licorice, bright and light. B
1986 Monticello Corley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Mark told me he had meant to blind but forgot foil, so I looked at label and called it correctly ! Solid if slightly stolid Cab, good finish. B/B+
1984 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon
Nice showing, darker fruit and some tobacco, nice length. B+
I think here is where I brought out the beef stew with star anise
1982 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon
Crumbly cork, some maderization, but nice wine underneath. This bottle B-/C+
1982 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon
This is the Napa not Howell Mountain but it’s pretty backward.Dense and tannic, 40+ years old and needs time! B for now
1982 Kalin Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara)
Light but with good intensity, green herbs (pot) and red cherry fruit, I liked to start and it really grew on me. A-
1977 Mount Eden Cabernet Sauvignon
Rich dark fruit, minty, cigarbox, long. A-
1974 Swan Zinfandel
Solid, red berry fruit, brambly. Good but overshadowed by ‘73, but really holds up well- was tasty next night. B+
1973 Swan Zinfandel
Delicious, pretty wild profile of black raspberry and orange marmalade, with earth and cigar smoke notes. Complex and fun. A-
1974 Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon
Crumbly cork, I think not a pristine bottle of this, I’ve enjoyed more, but still a fairly solid wine at 50. B
1973 Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
I didn’t write anything down on this but think it was more advanced than a bottle a couple years ago
That was the “official” lineup, but I couldn’t let the guys leave without a couple of blind wines:
Blind OnTheme Wine A- good but not the awesome wine it can be, I tried the next day and thought I might be catching the slightest whiff of TCA. But guys did well, got Syrah on second guess (and then producer immediately knowing me), then Craig said early 90s and John Durrell.
1994 Edmunds St John Durrell Syrah B+ (even if possibly slightly corked)
Blind OnTheme Wine B- Sweet black plum and cherry fruit, some tobacco, resolved tannins and nice lush texture. Not a ton of verve left, but fun. John got Merlot, I gave “the Graduate” as hint and Craig got vineyard and producer. 1989 Beringer Bancroft Ranch Merlot B+/B
John mentioned he had kind of hoped I’d have opened the 1973 BV Georges de la Tour Cabernet Sauvignon we had talked about. I’d forgotten that, but grabbed cradle and headed downstairs. Nice way to end. I’ve mostly given up on older BV, but every once in a while you hit a good one, and this one shone. Red and black cherry, eucalyptus, earthy soil tones. A-
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.