Wine Focus January 2025 - Dry Riesling-uary!

[David M. Bueker]

Yeah we’re bucking the Dryuary thing and tucking into dry Riesling this month. It doesn’t have to be bone dry, but let’s stick to the drier side - trockens from Germany, Austrian and Australian Rieslings that are normally dry, and dry versions from anywhere else.

What are your favorite dry Rieslings?

I ended 2024 with a dry riesling! Had a small dinner party for NYE with people who aren't wine geeks and had some little kids around, so it wasn't the time for anything too contemplative. The white was 2021 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett Trocken and it was perfect for the occasion. I last tasted it about a year ago, when it was crisp correct and a bit boring. Last night it had gained a bit more weight and complexity in that golden KR mode, but still plenty fresh and lively. Still not a contemplative wine, and well-suited to a casual dinner party, but no longer boring. Looking forward to the next bottle and may continue to wait.

Next up is 2017 Dr. Wehrheim Kastanienbusch Riesling GG. Pretty similar to the last bottle from 11 months ago. Firm and muscular in the Kastanienbusch style, but with golden ripe fruit, some tangy juicy elements, and herbal mineral detail. A very nice wine that is delicious at dinner, although I think the more recent vintages here have a bit more spark and interest. (Which is of course a good thing...)

[David M. Bueker]

You’re on a roll.

I was planning on a GG for tonight, but the Thai place we were going to go to for dinner was closed. Got Mexican instead, so not GG friendly.

You’re on a roll...

In recent weeks have been shifting towards riesling as the white wine selections, in prep for Rieslingfeier!

Recently had a few bottles of 2022 Andreas Laible Stollenberg Riesling GG.

It’s been many years since I’ve had a Laible, so was happy to return, as these were both delicious. Everything was in exquisite balance: juicy succulent fruit but also fresh sleek and firm structure with great definition.

Many years ago I remember the Laible wines having a slight rustic edge, which I didn’t mind. Things have changed over time and these bottles were more polished suave and sexy, but still with some crisp savory/earthy notes that make me place it in Baden (although can't swear there was no power of suggestion, no blind tasting here). Either way, am happy with the developments and there is a place for this in my rotation, especially given the reasonable US pricing ($43 plus shipping).

[David M. Bueker]

I have only had a couple of bottle from Laible. Good stuff, but I don’t have bandwidth for more producers.

... I don’t have bandwidth for more producers.

I know all about that!

2022 Rebholz Kastanienbusch GG

The last of my pre-Rieslingfeier prep bottles. And it was a very good one. It’s been too long since I’ve had Rebhlolz and from the immediate corkpull there was so much aroma in the kitchen and so much elegance on my tongue. A ripe firm structured Kastanienbusch, but still young enough to have enough juice to be easy to drink. The main feature that grabbed me was the elegance, clarity and delicate tone to the power. I’ve been drinking more Wehrheim Kastanienbusch recently, but those wines don’t approach this level of finesse.

Not a wine that screams to the masses, but I really dig it.

[David M. Bueker]

I like Rebholz. Never had enough to get to love, but I like them.

I like Rebholz. Never had enough to get to love, but I like them.

Yeah, they've always been overpriced in the US, and perhaps not widely available. For many years I only bought/drank them in Germany. And of course the style is restrained. But this reminded me of the elegance that accompanies that restraint! (Plus of course the warm vintage adds fun to the restraint)

[David M. Bueker]

2022 is general has left me lukewarm for the most part.

2022 is general has left me lukewarm for the most part.

That's what some people say, but I've found it very useful. Maybe not a blockbuster vintage to fill the cellar, but juicy 'accessible' fruit without the heat of 18/20. I need wines to drink and I've been happy.

[David M. Bueker]

Useful is a good word for it. I suspect I will appreciate it more in the fullness of time.