Thankful for Oregon Pinot Noir

[David M. Bueker]

I love Pinot Noir. I especially love Burgundy, as the elegance with power and structural form of the wines suits my palate. I am not alone in that, and given the tiny quantities and demand, prices have gone beyond my comfort zone.

Enter Oregon Pinot Noir, specifically wines from the Eola-Amity Hills and even more so the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The more I try wines from those areas, the more I find that they hit a lot of the same marks, even if they don’t have the same grace and complexity as fine Burgundies. What I find so notable is the similarity in structural make up. Where many California Pinot Noirs, even from top tier producers, rely almost exclusively on acidity for structure, the Oregon wines combine acids and tannins in a way that feels more (and I hate using this word) Burgundian.

I was reminded of this again last night as I was enjoying a 2018 Vincent Pinot Noir ‘Tardive’. It’s a blend, so only lists Willamette Valley, but Vincent Fritzche sources from a lot of sites in both Ribbon Ridge and Eola-Amity. There is a depth and structural presence to the wine, and it costs only $25! That’s what good Bourgogne used to cost. Heck, so good village wines used to cost $25!

Do the Oregon wines scratch the exact same itch? No. But they do hit a lot of the marks, and they are still very affordable, so I am happy to settle for that!

I love Pinot Noir. I especially love Burgundy, as the elegance with power and structural form of the wines suits my palate. I am not alone in that, and given the tiny quantities and demand, prices have gone beyond my comfort zone.

Enter Oregon Pinot Noir, specifically wines from the Eola-Amity Hills and even more so the Ribbon Ridge AVA. The more I try wines from those areas, the more I find that they hit a lot of the same marks, even if they don’t have the same grace and complexity as fine Burgundies. What I find so notable is the similarity in structural make up. Where many California Pinot Noirs, even from top tier producers, rely almost exclusively on acidity for structure, the Oregon wines combine acids and tannins in a way that feels more (and I hate using this word) Burgundian.

I was reminded of this again last night as I was enjoying a 2018 Vincent Pinot Noir ‘Tardive’. It’s a blend, so only lists Willamette Valley, but Vincent Fritzche sources from a lot of sites in both Ribbon Ridge and Eola-Amity. There is a depth and structural presence to the wine, and it costs only $25! That’s what good Bourgogne used to cost. Heck, so good village wines used to cost $25!

Do the Oregon wines scratch the exact same itch? No. But they do hit a lot of the marks, and they are still very affordable, so I am happy to settle for that!

One of the things I adore about Pinot Noir is its transparency in reflecting its terroir. There are such discernable differences between Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Jura, Baden, Mittelmosel, Willamette Valley, RRV, Central Coast, Marlborough, Central Otago and Martinborough expressions of the grape, so many of which are appealing in their own right (though I struggle with RRV ripeness these days). Only Riesling (and perhaps Chenin Blanc) in my experience has a similar ability to translate its terroir into a unique expression of the grape.

[David M. Bueker]

It most certainly does express site - extremely well. That gets back to my likes and dislikes in California. I actively dislike most Anderson Valley Pinots due to the acid-driven structure, and the frequent cranberry/watermelon fruit profile. Santa Cruz Mountains hits more what I am looking for.

[David M. Bueker]

Opened another Oregon wine tonight

• 2018 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Wadensvil Clone Freedom Hill Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (11/21/2024)
  For some reason wines made from the Wadensvil Clone of Pinot Noir strike my palate the right way. They seem to add a degree of juiciness without veering into jamminess. This bottle struck me exactly that way from the first sip. It’s structured, but somehow also succulent. It’s enthralling. Given the depth of fruit and the solid underlying structure it’s also probably going to be long lived. I won’t find out as it’s my last bottle, but it sure is good now.

Opened another Oregon wine tonight

• 2018 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot Noir Wadensvil Clone Freedom Hill Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (11/21/2024)
  For some reason wines made from the Wadensvil Clone of Pinot Noir strike my palate the right way. They seem to add a degree of juiciness without veering into jamminess. This bottle struck me exactly that way from the first sip. It’s structured, but somehow also succulent. It’s enthralling. Given the depth of fruit and the solid underlying structure it’s also probably going to be long lived. I won’t find out as it’s my last bottle, but it sure is good now.

RIP Patty Green. I loved her wines, both from her eponymous winery and before that at Torii Mor. CT tells me I'm down to my last bottle of her Pinot Noirs.