WTN: My Homemade 2006 Dry Cayuga

<table align="right" valign="top"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/userpix/70_2006cayuga_1.jpg" border="0" align="right"></td></tr></table>Yesterday I finally got around to bottling the bulk of my 2006 dry Cayuga, which was made from grapes picked last October in the Halton area north of Milton, Ontario. This area is home to Scotch Block Country Winery, and I'm proud to say that this very Cayuga that I produced was made from the same vines that contribute to the winery's Halton White, a white hybrid blend that I have reported on many times in the past and which is one of my favourite regional small-farm wines. My initial notes on the harvest and processing of last year's Cayugas can be found at this link.

<table align="left" valign="top"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/userpix/70_2006cayugabottled_2.jpg" border="0" align="right"></td></tr></table>Five months later, with cold stabilization completed and the wine beautifully clear after having been put through the traditional fining with isinglass, I take my first formal notes on the wine. The colour is bright, clear yellow-straw with a deep greenish streak when viewed under white (fluorescent) light. Legs form obstinately. Aromas of peaches, white currants and green-apple. There is also a slight hint of pineapple and a whiff of alcohol - I chaptalized to obtain 13% ABV, and this seems at about where it is. Firmly acidic and completely dry on the entry; very powerful acidity even after tartrate deposition (not a surprise, given the vintage conditions last year, but the texture remains much better than I had expected). Powerful structure with round, bracing acidity - I am pleased with this. Warm and crisp on the finish, where it brings to mind white currants and gooseberries. It's not particularly aromatic or flavourful, but neither is it neutral or boring like its parent Seyval can sometimes be. There's lots of structure here and some astringency on the tip of the tongue as well. I am not surprised by this at all, since this wine was fermented on the skins for two days - a practice that I wholeheartedly recommend for white wines, believing that it gives them a firmer structure than is otherwise the case. And structure in whites is a desirable thing.

Cayuga is a complex hybrid containing some labrusca and Zinfandel in its lineage. Despite the ability of the grape to occasionally betray the labrusca side of its pedigree through a classic candied musk aroma, no candied musk (foxiness) is noted in this one - that's not a surprise given the lack of sunshine and heat last September. Still, I am very happy with how the wine turned out - a true food wine - and will be honoured to have WLDGers sample it at this year's NiagaraCOOL.

Paul, sounds good! I look forward to trying it at NiagaraCOOL. By then, I would expect the aroma to increase after a few months of bottle age. I recently completed the second racking of my Cayuga (grown by Bruce Giles in Niagara County, NY), but am planning on blending in some Vignoles, and perhaps a bit of Vidal (will sit down one night this week and do some blend tasting from the carboys).

Thanks Howie. It's an interesting idea, your blend ... I would love to try that wine once you bottle it.

Personally I have come to the conclusion that I generally prefer Vidal to Seyval. For many years I gave both of these common white hybrids equal time at the gustatory soapbox (i.e. my dinner table and tasting glasses), and finally I have concluded that for my palate, Vidal edges out Seyval. I simply enjoy the fruity-citrus/pineapply/apricot nature of Vidal to the aromatically nondescript character of Seyval. Now, an oaked Seyval made in the style of Stoney Ridge's '98 bottling (ancient history now - they discontinued that a long time ago) was a different, altogether more interesting story.

Cayuga, having Seyval as a parent, nevertheless seems more interesting than its parent. I certainly enjoyed working with the Cayuga last year - it has big, tapering clusters and, given last year's terrible rains at harvest time and lack of drying sunshine, it appeared to have no visible disease issues. I can't believe what a superb wine could be made from well tended, properly cropped Cayugas ripened to around 20º Brix - I would love to work with such fruit one day.

Great job there, Paul B. Nice to keep up with what is going on in your neck of the woods!!

Sounds excellent, Paul! I can't wait to try it at NiagaraCOOL. And Howie, I certainly hope to have a sip or two of some of your wines too!

Sounds excellent, Paul! I can't wait to try it at NiagaraCOOL. And Howie, I certainly hope to have a sip or two of some of your wines too!

I'll rummage around the cellar and see what I can dig up.