There is no more exciting a winemaker working in Washington today, IMNSHO but I do share this with many, as Travis Allen who in a few short years has made his Kobayashi the most sought-after wines (by geeks) around. He essentially only makes one barrel of each thing--so scarcity plays a role--but really, it's his dialed-back approach that has everyone's attention. I already have some in my cellar, but definitely showed up when he came to town this week for an in-store tasting.
I have to preface this next bit by saying I'm not in his club, have not tried to be, have never met him or exchanged words before, in person or in print. But this happened: I walked up to the table, I extended my hand and said, "You must be Travis, so good to meet you." He asked me my name, and I said "Jenise" to which he said, "Oh! Stone? I was told you'd be here." You could have scraped me off the floor. I have no idea who would have done that or why, but wow!
Anyway, the wines:
2022 Kobayashi Winery Syrah Sans Soufre WeatherEye Vineyard Red Mountain
Reading thru others' notes on Kobayashi wines, one word keeps reappearing: pure. It's my starting place for this wine, too: it's a gorgeous wine, very young but very ready and the perfect antidote to the biggish, funky-Rocks style that's so popular in this state. I like those too, but this wine, stripped down to nothing, reminds one they don't all have to be like that. Though hard to judge from a brief in-store taste, looking back I think this vintage is (currently) not as extroverted than the '21 that blew my mind a year or so ago, but it's no less interesting. Next to it he poured his regular, non-SS, '22 Syrah, for comparison. Also very fine.
2022 Kobayashi Winery Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley
Even with a small in-store pour, that Travis achieved everything he set out to do with this brilliant cab franc is evident. Pure and energetic to quote Eric Levine, and closer to a top Joguet (Loire) than typical Wa, with savory elements achieved by deliberately maintaining some canopy in the vineyard. Though I'm technically in a wine-buying moratorium, couldn't resist adding some of these and the marsanne-roussanne blend to my cellar.
2023 Kobayashi Winery Marsanne-Roussanne WeatherEye Vineyard Rattlesnake Hills White Rhone Blend
Another CT review says "not a knock out". Well, for some of us, this IS what a knock-out tastes like: not decadently ripe or bombasticly concentrated, but ladylike (not delicate, but perhaps feminist) with layers and layers of elegance and nuance. Best version of this blend I've had from our state. Way to go, Travis, way to go.
