So a few of us gathered at Txikito for mature Rioja night (1982 and before was guideline). November in NYC, and it was a bit warm next to open windows!
Food was delicious, and we ordered a lot of it:
Gilda (anchovy olive pepper)
Jilda (sausage pepper)
Croquettes
Octopus carpaccio
Chicory salad
Lamb sweetbreads
Tongue
Beef cheek
Suckling pig
Lamb belly
Turbot
1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millenaires
Lovely and quite young, pear with smoke and chalk. A-/B+
On to the Rioja tintos.
Flight 1
1950 Riojanas Vina Albina Rioja Reserva
A divisive wine but I liked. More leather and smoke than fruit, getting on, but elegant in an elderly dowager mode. B
1956 Riojanas Monte Real Rioja Reserva
I am VA tolerant, but this was undrinkably volatile, paint thinner territory. C-
1970 Franco-Espanolas Royal Rioja Reserva,
Lightly lifted, sweet and easy, fruit came out more with air, good finish. B+
Flight 2
1981 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva
Delicious and young, black and red cherry, spicy, with grilled meat & coffee. Long and complex A-
1955 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva
Lifted, stinky nose that is hard to get past, but on palate quite nice with a sweet core of red fruit and leather. C nose, A-/B+ palate, let’s say B
Flight 3
1952 CVNE Vina Real Rioja Reserva Especial
Dark berries. cigar wrapper, long finish. B+
1962 CVNE Vina Real Rioja Reserva Especial
Black currant, earth, spice. Excellent. A-
1970 CVNE Vina Real Rioja Gran Reserva
Black fruits, espresso, mushrooms. delicious. A-
Flight 4
1928 Bilbainas Vieja Rioja Gran Reserva
OK, so this was a little tired, but at 96 that might be expected! Great color. Acidity is a little disjointed, some red fruit with citrus peel and incense. Really fun. B/B+
1955 Bilbainas Vendimia Rioja Especial
This got about 6 inches from my nose before I started yelling corked corked. About as TCA ridden as you can get, sad.
Flight 5
1942 Riojanas Monte Real Rioja Gran Reserva
Raspberry and red cherry, leather, clove, cocoa, long if dusty finish. B+/A-
1964 Riojanas Monte Real Rioja Gran Reserva
Red cherry and raspberry, cocoa, blood orange. Long and complex. A-/B+
1968 Riojanas Monte Real Rioja Gran Reserva
Earthy, mushrooms and mulched leaves, red and black cherries. B+
Really fun night with a fun crew.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.