Peak fall colors in the Finger Lakes seem to coincide this year with peak fall shipping season: FedEx trucks are converging on my house today from both directions (south from Syracuse, north from Horseheads. Yes, Horseheads). Meanwhile, some recent consumption:
Domaine Guiberteau 2013 Saumur Blanc Brézé. Tried a bottle of the basic Saumur blanc from 2013 earlier this year and thought it was developing well. This, by contrast, isn’t in a good place at all: the extra stuffing in the Brézé, together with the brutal acidity, shows at the moment as intense Sour Patch lemon-lime candy, behind which some waxy complexity is struggling to show itself. Recorked and will taste again after 24-48 hours, but I think this is going to take a lot more time to become pleasant to drink, if it ever does.
Bet The Farm 2022 Cayuga Lake Gamay Noir, Jacob Thomas Vineyard. This is as local as I get, a winery that's within my weekday morning cycling radius. Had a bottle of their Brut Gamay Rosé sparkler at a local restaurant earlier this year and thought it was remarkably good, so I recently picked up a bottle of this, and it's pretty good. Nice combination of floral and red berry nose, a tiny bit of jolly rancher on the palate that would send Jenise to the dump bucket, but also some meatiness that lends depth. In the high $20s, this isn't a back-up-the-truck purchase, but I'd get it again for variety or for an example of a good Finger Lakes red. Also: 11.3% abv.
Château Canon 2012 St. Émilion. I didn't initially remember why I bought these, since when I drink Bordeaux it tends to be Left Bank, but I think I got Right-Bank-curious and was intrigued by this because of the proportion (30%?) of Cabernet Franc in the blend. Decanted 2.5 hours before dinner and held at cellar temp. On opening, bright red candied fruit, a little hot, and a tannic finish, but after 90 minutes, it begins to come together well: floral nose, lots of energetic push and pull between lively red fruit and darker, plummy notes, a finish that's now less raspy and more like a dusting of unsweetened cocoa, and enough substance to carry the 14%. Lots going on here, and the fact that it smoothed out without becoming monotonous bodes well. I seem to have two more and will space them out w i d e l y.
Frog's Leap 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. A very fresh, even youthful bottle. Saturated color, rich blueberry and currant fruit, propulsive acidity, some pencilly and olive notes on the moderately long finish. Great texture, very harmonious. A classically styled Cabernet that’s in a lovely spot now and could go another decade.
Domaine Bruno Clavelier 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux, Vieilles Vignes. Black cherry, beef jerky, leather, and a little spice. Mouth-coating without being overpowering; in balance but feels like it’s holding something back. My guess (and it’s only a guess: first bottle of three; and I’m no expert) is that this is only now starting to open up, and will continue to develop over a decade or more. I'm glad to have tried one now to get a sense of the wine.
La Raia 2023 Gavi "Pleo.". I think the best thing that can be said about a good Gavi is that it tasted like a good Gavi and didn't otherwise distract from the enjoyment of the last cherry tomatoes of the season, which this did, and didn't, respectively.
Malacari 2018 Rosso Conero, Villa Malacari. Enjoyed one of these a while back at a restaurant, saw it at retail and bought a few. This bottle is still good -- dark fruit with a rustic edge -- but has less prominent acidity than I recall from the previous one I had at home, and just a little soy sauce on the finish, which leads me to think this should be consumed soon; I’ll have another within a few months and if the results are the same, will put it at the top of the queue for weeknight reds.
Unti Vineyards 2001 Dry Creek Valley Grenache. This was better than it should have been for something this far out of any sensible drinking window. Some bright cherry fruit and an herbaceous midpalate would have made for a perfectly fine bottle, especially with food, except the alcohol’s a little obtrusive at this stage, and there’s a bitter tannic note on the finish. Not great but not without pleasure, either.
on your gamay.