Our regular tasting group met last night for an evening of older Bordeaux. It's rather sobering (!) to realize that the 1980s were 30+ years ago. A number of the wines were holding up much better than me!
While we were gathering, the host served the 2022 Ridge Vineyards Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). General consensus was that it was some sort of Chardonnay, but the texture, and the overtly sweet fruit (not sugar, just sweet fruit) left me doubtful. Interesting to see the variety when it was revealed. Very good wine, and the richness could make it an intersting food partner.
There were nine Red Bordeaux in total. A tenth, the 1989 Domaine de Chevalier suffered from a poor cork, and was almost entirely oxidized. The wines were not served blind, and were uncorked about an hour prior to when we started tasting them.
In order of tasting:
1986 Chateau Talbot - The only wine that was decanted, as the cork had crumbled, and it needed to have the bits strained out. Dark ruby at the core, and merely pale at the rim. There was no hint of brown/orange. A touch of barnyard funk, as well as a slight metallic edge detracted somewhat, but underneath there was still some dark cassis fruit, as well as those typical drying tannins of 1986 Bordeaux.
1989 Chateau Cantemerle - As with the Talbot, this showed no excessive age based on color, and was in fact notably darker. Interesting aromatics that maintained a high degree of dark berry fruit, as well as earthy and aged wood elements, as one would expect and hope for in 35 year old Bordeaux. Where the Cantemerle shown was on the palate, as it maintained a richness and depth that belied its relatively humble origins. Not much streucture left, so perhaps it's best to enjoy this while it's showing so well. To my taste it was only a half step behind some of the much higher pedigreed wines that followed, and beat out a number of them.
1988 Chateau Pape Clement - There were three 1988s in the tasting, and only one (served later) really stood out. Nothing objectively wrong with this wine, but it was rather hard and charmless, especially compared to the Cantemerle that preceeded it. Tannins well out ahead of the fruit (what fruit that was left - not much), and so no expectations of improvement, only decline.
1990 Chateau Leoville Las Cases - 180 degree turn from the PC, this was still full of dark fruit, balanced and regal - maybe even to the point of being a bit standoffish. While this was my second ranked wine of the evening and it was no doubt excellent, it would not be my choice for an evevning of "fun" drinking. A wine to admire rather than to love, which is often how I feel about LLC.
1989 Chateau Beychevelle - Now this was a wine to love! Fully equal to the LLC in terms of quality, the aromas and flavors were more open, the mouthfeel more supple, and the overall presentation one of a welcoming, like a hug from a dear friend. Beautiful, soft fruit on the opening, led into a rich mid-palate that was held together by nearly invisible structure. I actually saved part of my pour of this (OK - I also poured a little extra), and was able to directly compare it with the remaining wines, and it remained my top choice. If I had any of this I would drink it now just because it's so good right now. Why wait?
1988 Chateau Lynch Bages - This was in a tough spot no matter what, and being another relatively charmless 1988 didn't help. Like the Pape Clement it was in no way a bad wine, just not terribly itneresting, and not in remotely the same league of the prior two bottles.
1990 Chateau Lynch Bages - richer and friendlier than its stern sibling the '88, this reminded me a lot of the '90 Las Cases in terms of being statuesque as opposed to the inviting '89 Beychevelle. Ultimately this was the wine I wanted to have with a steak, as the fruit and developed elements would work perfectly against the grilled meat. Make that a ribeye, as this also still had plenty of tannin. Very fine wine, and just on the outide looking in of my top 3 of the night. Let's say tied for fourth with the Cantemerle.
1988 Chateau Cos d'Estournel - Heck of a way to go out! This was the only one of the three 1988s that stood in the class of the '89s and '90s. In fact for the group it was WOTN (third for me). More exotic aromas than all the other wines, which was its best feature. The palate had some hardness, but not the obvious dryness of the other two '88 bottles. I just preferred the more inviting Beychevelle, but I would never turn down a glass or a bottle of the Cos.
Very fun evening, as I have never had a lot of opportunities to drink 1989 and 1990 Bordeaux.