I agree, Thomas. McPhee is a personal hero, I have a collection of his first editions, and this is a fascinating article for a wine lover with a number of tidbits that only a great writer could weave into such an interesting story.
Tidbits:
The white cliffs of Dover run up the coast to an area where sparkling wines are grown in England -- the typography sounds fascinating -- then under other stuff to the east until it reaches Champagne, where it re-emerges -- the soils are identical.
The Romans named Champagne after Campania.
Those chalk statues sound fantastic.
Unfortunately, McPhee apparently owns the copyright to the articles that appear in the New Yorker and the piece is not on their website. But the article is so interesting [albeit in need of some editing] that I recommend wine lovers try to find a copy.
Great recco, Thomas.
Regards, Bob