Wine Focus September 2024: Who doesn't like Sauvignon Blanc?

[Robin Garr]

We're not naming names here, not even yours, David: It's a fact that Sauvignon Blanc divides wine lovers into intractable camps of love it versus hate it. But which Sauvignon Blanc do you hate, exactly? Is it the typical Sauvignon-Sémillon blends of Bordeaux? The complex, seafood-friendly Sauvignon Blancs of the Loire? The wild Sauvignon Blancs that boosted New Zealand's reputation? The quiet Sauvignons of Northern Italy, where they don't bother to use the Blanc word? Or something else. Do you love to hate the grassy style or the citric style? Which Sauvignon Blanc do you hate, and why?

Love it or hate it, let's take a fresh look at the world's Sauvignon Blancs during September. You too, David!

[David M. Bueker]

You can't make me!!! Pfft!!!

[Robin Garr]

Welcome back, David.

As mentioned in Dale's Labor Day thread, on Sunday we had 2023 Pellé Sancerre La Croix au Garde and it was nice. Quite ripe round and young, not a lot of the varietal sauvignon blanc character (none of the grassy stuff). But just enough of an herbal edge to maybe evoke its origins.

For a half-second I even said to myself, maybe I should buy some more Sancerre/sauvignon blanc.

But, I know that's probably not going to happen! I already have my hands more than full with riesling, chenin and white Burgundy/champagne. So I never seem to get around to sauvignon blanc!

Quite a big sauvignon fan here! Sancerre is quite expensive here in Alberta but enjoyed this note from Rahsaan.
Not that keen on sauvignon from BC but live and learn I guess. Tend to try out the SA wines but no recent notes/memories. I see Morgenster is on sale for $17 Cdn downtown.

In addition, have to say I have enjoyed Clos du Soleil Fume Blanc from the Similkameen Valey. Always a worthwhile visit and friendly informative tasting room staff.

I'm in the camp of being close to loving some wines from SB. Those from the central Loire appellations, in particular, make very good pairings with many seafood dishes and can be exhilarating drinking. However, I have yet to drink a SB derived wine which achieves the elegance, style, finesse or grandeur of the best from Riesling in Alsace, Germany and Austria, Chardonnay in Burgundy, Chenin in Anjou and Touraine or even Gros & Petit Manseng from Jurançon. The closest I have had was a mature Sancerre from one of the Cotat estates.

Alas, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from well regarded estates are becoming difficult to find for less than €20+ and often a lot more, so they are not for my everyday drinking. Nearby appellations like Menetou-Salon, Reuilly and Quincy also can make very good wine but the prices seem to be climbing there too above the c.€10 level which was common not long ago.

White Bordeaux usually contains Sémillon as well as SB and is less exhilarating and more suave than those from further north. Decent ones can be found for less than €10 but the top names go well into three figures. I have never had one which, IMO, equals the best from other grapes, even the sips at tastings of the likes of Haut-Brion blanc or Domaine de Chevalier.

PS: in France too "Sauvignon" is often written and said without "blanc".

[David M. Bueker]

Washington Post is on theme. (Gift link)
https://wapo.st/4dV1jtS

[David M. Bueker]

I had a wine with 20% Sauvignon Blanc tonight. Is that enough?

Tend to try out the SA wines but no recent notes/memories. I see Morgenster is on sale for $17 Cdn downtown.

I've not had Morgenster but am quite a fan of RSA Sauvignon Blancs. In particular Diemersdal, Durbanville Hills, Iona, Klein Constantia, Steenburg to name a few.

We don't drink much white, usually only once a week on Friday with fish, and Mrs M insists on the ones from New Zealand especially Villa Maria to such an extent that she buys them just in case I get any ideas about serving another white.

For us, the big divide is between wooded and unwooded styles. We like the latter and the pungency of NZ SBs.

The quiet Sauvignons of Northern Italy, where they don't bother to use the Blanc word

The use of Blanc distinguishes such wines from Sauvignon Gris - of which I've had several. Mebbe wines labelled as just Sauvignon are blends of Blanc & Gris.

According to Wine Grapes there are also Rose and Rouge mutations.

[David M. Bueker]

Very little (if any) Sauvignon Gris planted in Northern Italy. It’s primarily in Bordeaux and Chile.

[Jenise]

[quote="Tim York"

White Bordeaux usually contains Sémillon as well as SB and is less exhilarating and more suave than those from further north. Decent ones can be found for less than €10 but the top names go well into three figures. I have never had one which, IMO, equals the best from other grapes, even the sips at tastings of the likes of Haut-Brion blanc or Domaine de Chevalier.

[/quote]

Tim, after reading this I have to conclude that the shortfall here isn't in the wines, it's in you. I have had SB's that do in fact rival the best of other grapes, but then I just love Sauvignon Blanc to start with. Styles vary of course, but I love the herbaecousness, the cat pee, the just-cut grass--in short all the feral qualities, as well as the ones that are fresh and tangy and citrus-y. I love all the various expressions though of course, as with all grape varieties, some versions fall flat. I'm sure I don't have to caution you too much about judging any group of wines by mere "sips at tastings" vs. the joy of settling in with a glass or draining the entire bottle.

[quote="Tim York"

White Bordeaux usually contains Sémillon as well as SB and is less exhilarating and more suave than those from further north. Decent ones can be found for less than €10 but the top names go well into three figures. I have never had one which, IMO, equals the best from other grapes, even the sips at tastings of the likes of Haut-Brion blanc or Domaine de Chevalier.

Tim, after reading this I have to conclude that the shortfall here isn't in the wines, it's in you. I have had SB's that do in fact rival the best of other grapes, but then I just love Sauvignon Blanc to start with. Styles vary of course, but I love the herbaecousness, the cat pee, the just-cut grass--in short all the feral qualities, as well as the ones that are fresh and tangy and citrus-y. I love all the various expressions though of course, as with all grape varieties, some versions fall flat. I'm sure I don't have to caution you too much about judging any group of wines by mere "sips at tastings" vs. the joy of settling in with a glass or draining the entire bottle.[/quote]

Jenise, I'm always prepared to change my mind. At the risk of breaking the bank, let's drink together Haut-Brion, Mission H-B or Pape Clément blancs (lots of Sémillon in the first two and oak in the last) or a Dagueneau or Mellot from the central Loire.

[David M. Bueker]

I found my one bottle of Sauvignon Blanc!

[David M. Bueker]

So I pulled the only bottle of 100% Sauvignon Blanc (sans botrytis) in my cellar, and opened it with dinner. The 2023 Bedrock Wine Co Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc is an objectively well made wine. It has plenty of ripe fruit, and it’s not overly grassy. The acidity is fresh and bright.

I don’t like it.

I don’t hate it.

There is nothing about the wine that interests me. I take a sip, go “yeah that’s a good wine” and have no interest in another. That’s actually a good explanation about how modern SB hits me. There’s nothing that I find distasteful. I just find it criminally boring.