WTN: 20+ wines at pre-Labor Day party

Usually we host a Labor Day party, this year Betsy had a 6 AM flight on Labor Day so we scheduled for the Sunday. Slightly smaller crowd than usual, but bigger contingent of wine geeks. Unfortunately Betsy’s persistent cough had rebounded (4 tests, not COVID) so she mostly stayed upstairs to rest up.

A little frantic as it kept saying 40% chance of thunderstorms right up till time guests were due, hard to set up chairs and tablecloths I didn’t want to get soaked. But only s tiny drizzle.

I grilled porterhouses, hot dogs, sausage (morcilla, chorizo, Italian), salmon, poat dot (Cambodian corn), clams, zucchini poblanos. Betsy made a platter of caprese. Others brought shrimp and some incredible Filipino pork belly for the grill, plus a Russian salad (beets/potatoes/carrots), couple of different potato salads, 3 batches of deviled eggs (I didn’t try to coordinate), orzo salad, avocado caprese, tuna tartare, zucchini/chevre tart, and a lot more. Lots of desserts too (I know Betsy liked Salil’s brownies).

Blind Champagne- Honey and brioche, a little heavy, I blew my only guess by thinking it has some PN in it. Larger framed, not really my style but impressive. NV Noel Bazin L'Etonnante Blanc de Blancs B (very surprised by von Bodem tag, I thought all German)

2021 Eminence Road Pinot Noir Rose
Some people really liked this, not me so much, though it grew on me a bit. Pet-nat with a sour cherry and lambic beer profile, I did find very interesting. B/B-

NV Drappier Riceys Rose Champagne
My favorite sparkling of the day, fresh and snappy, watermelon and red cherry, refreshing. B+/A-

NV Roederer Collection 244
Pear, pastry dough, good crispness. B+/B

2023 Colin Gris Boudin rose (Coteaux du Venomois)
100% Pineau d’Aunis. A little bit of that geranium quality I get in PdA (or Loire Gamay), but not overwhelming. Red fruit, pineneedle, pepper. Interesting. B


2010 JN Gagnard Clos de la Maltroie Chassagne-Montrachet 1er (mag)
Fingers crossed, whew not corked (although someone told me later they thought advanced- didn’t think so on retry either). Pear, pineapple, a little hazelnut. Moderate acids (could use a bit more verve), some mushroom on finish. B/B+


2013 Dubreuil-Fontaine "Clos Berthet" Pernand-Vergelesses 1er
New vineyard to me,Green apple and touch of nuttiness, good acid, I enjoyed. B+

2023 Pelle Sancerre
I’ve had plenty of Pelle Menetou-Salon but never seen a Sancerre before. No notes but enjoyed

2022 ColleStefano Verdicchio di Matelica
No notes but I enjoyed with the grilled clams with garlic


2021 Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese
That Kirschheck cherry note, not a ponderous Spatlese, good length. B+/A-

2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese
Peachy, ripe, long, but slightly pudgy. B/B+

2005 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Auslese GK
Honied, lush, a little advanced. B-

2005 Prager Weissenkirchen Achleiten Stockkultur Gruner Veltliner
Deep gold. Peach and tropical fruit with some light petrol, a little white pepper, I like but doesn’t have the vivacity of the 2007 couple weeks ago. B+/B

2022 Pascal Henriot Pinot Noir Coteaux de Champlitte
New appellation to me, north of Dijon, this is apparently 60 year old vines. Light, peppery, a little mustard seed. Quite fun. B+/B

2008 Chandon de Briailles “les Vergelesses” Pernand-Vergelesses
Wonderful showing, Black and red cherry, citrus zest, a little coffee. Lovely mouthfeel, balanced and long, with a mineral cut to the finish. A-

1989 Ch. de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
A good bottle of this! Lovely mature CdP, on the elegant side for Beaucastel, red fruit with just a hint of roasted aromas, leather, faint hint of barnyard. I preferred this to other CdP,, but was in minority. A-/B+

1988 Ch. Cabrieres “Prestige” Chateauneuf-du-Pape
I think of ‘88 as a fairly cool year, but this showed riper than the ‘89 Beau. Ripe red fruits, just a hint of surmaturite, some spiciness. I liked, some others loved. B+

I blinded group. First guess Syrah, then Mark said Bdx and Sasha got St Julien and Beychevelle in order. Took a while to get vintage. Someone thought advanced, I thought a pointe. Midweight, cassis and black plum, loads of cigarbox character. 1982 Ch. Beychevelle A-/B+


Mark’s blind wine was corked, quite sad as it was 1971 Ch. La Conseillante

Jay couldn’t let us blind without doing the same’. Clearly Bdx,, tobacco and black currant, someone guesses DDC, I guess Haut Bailly (less tasting prowess than knowing Jay). Really bright acids made me think 1979, but no. Lovely showing. 1978 Ch. Haut Bailly A-

2006 Baudry La Croix Boisee Chinon
Black raspberry, tree bark, earth, and espresso. Really in a nice place, long and complex. A-
2004 Grimaldi Barbera d’Alba
I didn’t try this until everyone had gone, had been open hours. Soft, cherries and a little truffle, I was surprised to see it was 20 years old- while I didn’t love, I thought it young. B/B-

1990 Domaine des Aubuisières Grand Annee Vouvray Moelleux
Dried peach, light honey, quince. Midbodied, I expected a bit more energy and richness from a ‘90 Moelleux. Ok I guess. B-

Lots of fun, great people. I had to get up at 3 AM to drive Betsy to EWR, but had whole lovely day today to clean up.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

2013 Dubreuil-Fontaine "Clos Berthet" Pernand-Vergelesses 1er
New vineyard to me...

It's a monopole, so you won't see it from anyone else! Apparently 1er in white and village in red. It was a first time for me and was pleased. Recent purchase from Flatiron.

2021 Pelle Sancerre
I’ve had plenty of Pelle Menetou-Salon but never seen a Sancerre before.

This was a 2023.

2008 Chandon de Briailles “Ile de Vergelesses” Pernand-Vergelesses
Wonderful showing, Black and red cherry, citrus zest, a little coffee. Lovely mouthfeel, balanced and long, with a mineral cut to the finish. A-

This was just the "Les Vergelesses", not the Ile. And it didn't quite have the composure of the Ile, but it was one of my favorites of the day, thanks for opening. In a perfect harmonious place, at least for my palate.

1989 Ch. de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape
A good bottle of this! Lovely mature CdP, on the elegant side for Beaucastel, red fruit with just a hint of roasted aromas, leather, faint hint of barnyard. I preferred this to other CdP,, but was in minority. A-/B+

1988 Ch. Cabrieres “Prestige” Chateauneuf-du-Pape
I think of ‘88 as a fairly cool year, but this showed riper than the ‘89 Beau. Ripe red fruits, just a hint of surmaturite, some spiciness. I liked, some others loved. B+.

This was interesting. I guess the Cabrieres did show darker fruits but the texture was so much silkier and firmer and more enjoyable for me. I really liked it. The Beaucastel seemed a bit muddier. But, it's all personal taste and I wouldn't swear to my analysis, given the environment that leaned more on the fun.

Thanks again.

thanks for corrections, edited. D'oh re the CdB. I had IdV in brain, and was puzzled when I went to CT to remove a bottle- it showed me I had several vintages, but not the '08. Just went and removed 08 Les Vergelesses.
Will keep an eye open for the Berthet.
I think pretty much everyone else shared your preference on the CdPs. Chacun a son gout!

I agree with Rahsaan's corrections.

I never saw the Dubreuil-Fontaine, nor the La Conseillante , nor the Wolfer (though I grabbed that one to take home with me).

You did not mention the leftover bottles, which were new to the rest of us: Griffe, Taganan, Baudry.

There was a Lyle bottle: Barni 2016 Bramaterra.

There was a Grimaldi 2004 Barbera d'Alba.

I never saw the Dubreuil-Fontaine...

Well you did see it when we arrived and I pulled it out of my bag. You expressed your usual skepticism about white Burgundy!

I never saw the Dubreuil-Fontaine...

Well you did see it when we arrived and I pulled it out of my bag. You expressed your usual skepticism about white Burgundy!

Oh, that explains it.

I think there was also a half-bottle of that rancid goop from Jerez on the table, too.


Jeff, Member of the League of Anti-Oxidative Gentlemen.

I think there was also a half-bottle of that rancid goop from Jerez on the table, too.

Yes, good memory. I like that stuff but it's hilarious how little vintage character one can discern. (At least me) This was from the 1970s but it wouldn't surprise me in the least if there was just one giant vat of the stuff that they fill into different bottles with different labels.

Yes, good memory. I like that stuff but it's hilarious how little vintage character one can discern. (At least me) This was from the 1970s but it wouldn't surprise me in the least if there was just one giant vat of the stuff that they fill into different bottles with different labels.

I learned recently that that is exactly how all commercial packaged chicken stock is made!

I never saw the Dubreuil-Fontaine, nor the La Conseillante , nor the Wolfer (though I grabbed that one to take home with me).
You did not mention the leftover bottles, which were new to the rest of us: Griffe, Taganan, Baudry.
There was a Lyle bottle: Barni 2016 Bramaterra.
There was a Grimaldi 2004 Barbera d'Alba.

As corked, I didn't bring out Mark's Conseillante.
I never saw the Wolfer either, but someone handed me a glass while grilling.
The leftover bottles had own threads!
Never saw the Bramaterra, did mention the Barbera.
I might have seen the sherry, but ignored it!
Chicken stock solera!

Yes, if we're keeping score, the 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Auslese was from Daniel Vollenweider. Although not sure if anyone else works in that vineyard!

Very fun afternoon, thanks again for hosting and taking notes/keeping track of wines.

Standouts for me were the '78 Haut-Bailly, '88 Cabrieres (which I also preferred to the Beaucastel), and the Dubreuil-Fontaine Clos Berthet. I'll have to look for that next time I'm at Flatiron, thanks Rahsaan.

I was in the camp that found the Beaucastel slightly muddled, with a bit of a stewed character to the fruit.

I enjoyed the Baudry Croix Boissee, but also found it quite youthful and still in need of more time. Though I did try it right after the decanter came outside (right before I left), so perhaps it eased up and showed more depth afterwards.

Liked though didn't love the Beychevelle, was surprised at how ripe it seemed on the nose - almost a slightly roasted aspect, which is why I'd guessed '76 when you poured it for me.

Among the Rieslings, liked the Vollenweider a lot though it was definitely on the rounder/plusher side, not a wine I'd ever call racy. But very tasty and it has me excited to try my 05 Kab/Spat in my wine fridge. The Donnhoff was also lovely - not super complex but really delicious and easy to drink, but that's Kirschheck for me - even when it shows like a one-note wine, it's a beautiful note. Agree that the Simon felt a little advanced (as have a few other 2005s I've tried recently).

thanks for corrections, edited. D'oh re the CdB. I had IdV in brain, and was puzzled when I went to CT to remove a bottle- it showed me I had several vintages, but not the '08. Just went and removed 08 Les Vergelesses.
Will keep an eye open for the Berthet.
I think pretty much everyone else shared your preference on the CdPs. Chacun a son gout!

That explains why I didn't see a note from you on CT about the '08 IdV. Too bad, as I have that wine but have been keeping my mitts off it after having several bottles of the '07 which were nowhere near ready.

Purchase spotted?: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=35365#p296911

Looks like it. Simon not in my usual pattern.

Great event, eclectic and impressive set of wines. Big enough to remind me of those big summer gatherings at Jacques and Jill’s poll back in the day.

2013 Dubreuil-Fontaine "Clos Berthet" Pernand-Vergelesses 1er
New vineyard to me...

It's a monopole, so you won't see it from anyone else! Apparently 1er in white and village in red. It was a first time for me and was pleased. Recent purchase from Flatiron.
.

Is the 13 a recent release, maybe ex-domaine? Seems like a long time for a white burg to sit on a retailer’s shelf, even a good one.

2013 Dubreuil-Fontaine "Clos Berthet" Pernand-Vergelesses 1er
New vineyard to me...

It's a monopole, so you won't see it from anyone else! Apparently 1er in white and village in red. It was a first time for me and was pleased. Recent purchase from Flatiron.
.

Is the 13 a recent release, maybe ex-domaine? Seems like a long time for a white burg to sit on a retailer’s shelf, even a good one.

It has not been sitting there since release. But not sure where the retailer got it. Perhaps ex-domaine, but they also buy a fair amount of personal cellars and constantly cycle through older wines from those sources.

I have both the 89 ad 90 Beaucastel in the cellar and go back and forth on which I like best at a given tasting - both wines are wonderful. I also have 82 Beychevelle and have been trying to think of an excuse to open it. A fine, fine array of wines, Dale!