It's been sixteen hours and fifteen days, more or less, since we drank that Chevillon Vaucrains, and nothing I've opened since has come close, but here it all is anyway.
Edmunds St. John 2017 Gamay Noir Rosé, El Dorado County, Bone-Jolly. Wow, has this aged well. The fruit has perhaps lost a little of its youthful exuberance but the wine’s still fresh, bright, and balanced. Like one of those sunsets that goes on longer than you thought it possibly could. This was our next-to-last bottle from the case, though I think we still have some 2019 left, too. Yum.
Unti Vineyards 2014 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley. Big sunny California fruit for sure, but with enough acidity to remain fresh and vibrant, this is still remarkably youthful at age 10. Dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice. No reason to hold but no need to hurry. Consumed over two nights, kept well at cellar temp in an Eto decanter.
Vietti 2021 Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, "Derthona." I don't know that I'd had an Italian Timorasso before having the Idlewild version, which I've been enjoying, but this is even better. Great balance between rich, oily, brassy citrus and laser-sharp structure. Has more focus than the Idlewild and doesn’t become broad and diffuse on the finish quite so quickly. From a restaurant wine list, and great choice to pair with lots of different things.
Ridge 2013 Merlot, Santa Cruz Mountains, Estate. Fresh and lively, with dark fruit on the leading edge, becoming brighter and redder on the midpalate and finishing with a burst of baking spice. Still some unresolved tannins, and the bottle improves over a couple of hours, so if I had more I’d be in no hurry, but this is rewarding now. Very good.
Ingrid Groiss 2022 Rosé, Weinviertel, "Hasenheide." Very pale pink, the barest bit of spritz, some tart cranberry and cherry fruit flashes by quickly, as if trying to outrun a tumble of rocks that’s hot on its tail, Indiana Jones-style. Finishes stern and austere. This is decent, but it's probably my least favorite Groiss wine so far.
Podere Scopetone 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. Okay, earlier this year, flush with excitement about the new cellar, I bought a mixed case of 2019 Brunelli from a NYC retailer; I don't drink a lot of Brunello and wanted to start to explore, and focused on houses that seemed aligned with my preferences. First one I've opened, and meh. Medium body, tart black cherry fruit, dry herbs, a touch of unintegrated wood, and some bitterness and tannin on the finish. Deepens and rounds out a little with air, so this might improve with short- to medium-term cellaring, but this is really pretty underwhelming, especially since I could have had a couple of Felsina Chianti for the price of one bottle of this.
Dirty and Rowdy 2014 Mourvèdre, Chalone, Antle Vineyard. On the first night, a floral nose is quickly displaced by dark, feral, bloody fruit and still substantial fine tannins. On the second night (375ml kept at cellar temp in an Eto decanter), the midpalate is much more open and the finish is softer, but it’s all still complex and satisfying. I don’t get any of the light red fruit or carbonic elements mentioned by earlier CT tasters; this bottle, at least, was pretty deep and brooding by D&R or Yeah! standards. Hold the last bottle 5+ years.
Sabelli-Frisch 2022 Flame Tokay, Molekumne River, Blodgett Vineyard, "Lanterna." Medium-pale orange. This is equal parts fruity and savory, substantial but not heavy. Don’t have a lot of descriptors as I only had a small glass with a flavorful panzanella, and think it deserves more attention than I was able to give it, but it was delicious and a good complement. Had a little more on night two and some brassy herbaceousness was more present on the finish.
Dönnhoff 2022 Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Oberhäuser Leistenberg. Typical Nahe stone fruit and mineral profile, a bit understated in intensity, moderate weight, acidity, and sweetness, needs to shed some baby fat, not a ton of definition now, but has promise. Yep, on the second night, it shows a little leaner. Dunno if this will ever be great but it's a fine value.