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WTN: nothing compares 2 U

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by Patchen Markell » Fri Aug 02, 2024 11:08 am

It's been sixteen hours and fifteen days, more or less, since we drank that Chevillon Vaucrains, and nothing I've opened since has come close, but here it all is anyway. :-)

Edmunds St. John 2017 Gamay Noir Rosé, El Dorado County, Bone-Jolly. Wow, has this aged well. The fruit has perhaps lost a little of its youthful exuberance but the wine’s still fresh, bright, and balanced. Like one of those sunsets that goes on longer than you thought it possibly could. This was our next-to-last bottle from the case, though I think we still have some 2019 left, too. Yum.

Unti Vineyards 2014 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley. Big sunny California fruit for sure, but with enough acidity to remain fresh and vibrant, this is still remarkably youthful at age 10. Dark cherry fruit and a touch of spice. No reason to hold but no need to hurry. Consumed over two nights, kept well at cellar temp in an Eto decanter.

Vietti 2021 Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi, "Derthona." I don't know that I'd had an Italian Timorasso before having the Idlewild version, which I've been enjoying, but this is even better. Great balance between rich, oily, brassy citrus and laser-sharp structure. Has more focus than the Idlewild and doesn’t become broad and diffuse on the finish quite so quickly. From a restaurant wine list, and great choice to pair with lots of different things.

Ridge 2013 Merlot, Santa Cruz Mountains, Estate. Fresh and lively, with dark fruit on the leading edge, becoming brighter and redder on the midpalate and finishing with a burst of baking spice. Still some unresolved tannins, and the bottle improves over a couple of hours, so if I had more I’d be in no hurry, but this is rewarding now. Very good.

Ingrid Groiss 2022 Rosé, Weinviertel, "Hasenheide." Very pale pink, the barest bit of spritz, some tart cranberry and cherry fruit flashes by quickly, as if trying to outrun a tumble of rocks that’s hot on its tail, Indiana Jones-style. Finishes stern and austere. This is decent, but it's probably my least favorite Groiss wine so far.

Podere Scopetone 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. Okay, earlier this year, flush with excitement about the new cellar, I bought a mixed case of 2019 Brunelli from a NYC retailer; I don't drink a lot of Brunello and wanted to start to explore, and focused on houses that seemed aligned with my preferences. First one I've opened, and meh. Medium body, tart black cherry fruit, dry herbs, a touch of unintegrated wood, and some bitterness and tannin on the finish. Deepens and rounds out a little with air, so this might improve with short- to medium-term cellaring, but this is really pretty underwhelming, especially since I could have had a couple of Felsina Chianti for the price of one bottle of this.

Dirty and Rowdy 2014 Mourvèdre, Chalone, Antle Vineyard. On the first night, a floral nose is quickly displaced by dark, feral, bloody fruit and still substantial fine tannins. On the second night (375ml kept at cellar temp in an Eto decanter), the midpalate is much more open and the finish is softer, but it’s all still complex and satisfying. I don’t get any of the light red fruit or carbonic elements mentioned by earlier CT tasters; this bottle, at least, was pretty deep and brooding by D&R or Yeah! standards. Hold the last bottle 5+ years.

Sabelli-Frisch 2022 Flame Tokay, Molekumne River, Blodgett Vineyard, "Lanterna." Medium-pale orange. This is equal parts fruity and savory, substantial but not heavy. Don’t have a lot of descriptors as I only had a small glass with a flavorful panzanella, and think it deserves more attention than I was able to give it, but it was delicious and a good complement. Had a little more on night two and some brassy herbaceousness was more present on the finish.

Dönnhoff 2022 Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Oberhäuser Leistenberg. Typical Nahe stone fruit and mineral profile, a bit understated in intensity, moderate weight, acidity, and sweetness, needs to shed some baby fat, not a ton of definition now, but has promise. Yep, on the second night, it shows a little leaner. Dunno if this will ever be great but it's a fine value.
cheers, Patchen
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by David M. Bueker » Fri Aug 02, 2024 11:52 am

Thanks for the older D&R note. I still have a fair stash from 2014 onward, including a lone bottle of that Antle.

On the Leistenberg - if it ever is great it will be 15 years from now. Those Kabinetts have serious staying power, and develop really well over time.
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by Patchen Markell » Fri Aug 02, 2024 12:43 pm

Thanks re: the Leistenberg. I have five more, and plan to hold at least three!

I was surprised, when all my wine arrived from Chicago, at how much D&R I had going back to 2014-16. I somehow thought I’d only started buying once I’d moved here. Anyway; I think I also have the Dirty Rowdy and Enfield mashup from Antle. Should try one of those soon to see how it compares.
cheers, Patchen
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by Dale Williams » Fri Aug 02, 2024 1:43 pm

title/opening sentence TNOTY. Thank you for the smile.
A couple of times I'm aged an ESJ rose a year or two, did fine, never did 6 years, but not surprised it held.
While I can love them when they're on, Brunello is probably my Most Likely To Disappoint major category.
And yes the OL Kab can do very well in cellar as David says.
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by David M. Bueker » Fri Aug 02, 2024 2:33 pm

Patchen Markell wrote:I was surprised, when all my wine arrived from Chicago, at how much D&R I had going back to 2014-16. I somehow thought I’d only started buying once I’d moved here. Anyway; I think I also have the Dirty Rowdy and Enfield mashup from Antle. Should try one of those soon to see how it compares.


I actually opened the D&R/Enfield (from magnum) at a Memorial Day party this year. If you have 750s I would get into it. Should be in the zone, though it's not so interesting as either producers' solo efforts. I bet if they were to do it again now it would be much more fun.
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by Patchen Markell » Fri Aug 02, 2024 4:57 pm

Cool, thanks -- I have 3 x 750 and will get one in the queue!
cheers, Patchen
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by Patchen Markell » Fri Aug 02, 2024 5:44 pm

And thanks, Dale. I think we bought a case of this and then were gifted a case of a later vintage by my aunt during the pandemic, so a bunch got away from us. I was pretty confident it would be fine but this was better than fine!
cheers, Patchen
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Re: WTN: nothing compares 2 U

by David M. Bueker » Fri Aug 02, 2024 7:35 pm

Steve sold some rosé at ridiculously cheap (like $9/bottle) pricing during the pandemic. Along with a dear friends couple we plowed through two insanely cheap cases.
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