I'll kick off this month's Wine Focus with a tart and refreshing summer sipper from Reggio Amelia, a pet-nat-adjacent natural wine from the Lambrusco region made from Lambrusco's better brother Sorbara. Its offbeat style and fascinating complexity make it a keeper. Or maybe not a keeper. I wouldn't cellar it on a bet. Mighty good now, though.
FUSO + Denny Bini "Spuma!" Frizzante ($18.99)
Certified organic and made 100% with Lambrusco di Sorbara grapes, "Spuma!" Frizzante is a delightful lightly sparkling natural wine. Its beer-bottle-style crown cap comes off with a loud pop. It pours with a foamy white mousse that falls back fast, revealing a pretty orange-bronze color. Its complex aroma is challenging to sort out: There's subtle strawberry and tart cranberry, a hint of white grapefruit and an earthy suggestion of damp clay. Its fresh, slightly fizzy fruit flavor is consistent with the aromas, with mouth-watering acidity cloaking just a hint of sweetness. 11.5% alcohol. U.S. importer: (July 14, 2024)
FOOD MATCH: It's perfect for summer sipping as an aperitif, but its fresh and dry acidity make it a match for traditional Italian fare from pasta and pizza to lasagna. Try it, too, with moderately spicy Asian cuisines.
WHEN TO DRINK: This non-vintage wine is not made for cellaring; even its beer-bottle style crown cap says "drink me now." Or at least within a few months after you bring it home.
VALUE:
This intriguing natural wine is a decent value at my $19 local price. Wine-Searcher.com currently lists a $21 average U.S. retail price, but many merchants offer it in the upper teens. Wine-Searcher's average appears to be thrown off by higher prices at several New York retailers, so shop prudently.
WEB LINK:
Here's a detailed fact sheet from importer Portovino. Read more about Portovino's FUSO program on this importer page. Finally, here's Denny Bini's Podere Cipolla page on Facebook. It's in Italian, but you can still find the "Like" button!
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for "Spuma!" Frizzante on Wine-Searcher.com.
Read more about Lambrusco di Sorbara wines at this Wine-Searcher link.