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WTN: Tour de France: 10 days through a wine glass

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WTN: Tour de France: 10 days through a wine glass

by Tim York » Sat Jul 13, 2024 1:40 pm

Here is our vinous Tour de France for the last 10 days. Like the cyclists’ Tour it includes an excursion over the frontier, in this case into Piemonte. In some cases the TN was written at an earlier date for a bottle of the same which performed in a similar way. When it comes to buying wine, hypermarkets and supermarkets have the keenest prices and are reliable when it comes to Bordeaux from well-known estates, of which they carry large stocks. For the smaller volume wines from most other regions, they don’t compete on quality or enterprising selection with independent cavistes (wine merchants), who are also more reliable at screening out poor quality in lesser known Bordeaux estates.

Yesterday –
2021 Delas Frères Côtes du Rhône Saint-Esprit - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (19/02/2024)
This is a good robust generic CdR showing polished cherry infused fruit, smooth texture, good balancing acidity and grip on the finish. Good. (c.€9)

Thursday
2020 Cantine San Silvestro Barbera d'Asti Superiore - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti Superiore (11/07/2024)
Lively Barbera with juicy berry fruit, minerality and fresh moreish acidity without astringency. I'll buy more. Good. (c.€8)

Wednesday
2019 Château Thieuley - France, Bordeaux (17/01/2024)
Without side by side comparison and relying only on my TNs, I think that this is more gracious and generous than the 2018, being fresh fruited with a certain underlying roundness which puts the acidity into better balance as well as slightly less obtrusive tannins. Good+ wine and good QPR at c.€7.

Tuesday
2022 Vignobles Rambier Pic St. Loup La Bonne Ambiance - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pic St. Loup (04/12/2023)
This is a suave medium/full offering from Pic St.Loup (Syrah at least 50%). Colour is quite deep, the dark berry cherry infused fruit is polished, there are touches of spice and aromatic herbs, adequate acidity for balance and a fairly firm finish. Perhaps a year or two would contribute some complexity but I don't think it built for the long haul. Good. (c.€8)


Monday
2020 Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Saering - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (08/07/2024)
Nearly two years on from my previous bottle, this has perhaps taken a bit more depth and typically Riesling mineral and petrol sprinkled fragrance but it still needs a bit more time to integrate the flavours and acidity. Good though. (c.€19)

Sunday
1995 Château Pontet-Canet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (07/07/2024)
This was my last bottle and perhaps the best. As some of the better preceding bottles, it showed an expressive nose with nice red and dark claret fruit and slight hints of metal, cedar and mint. The palate was medium/full bodied showing good depth of fruit, a little leather, more round and velvety texture than I noted before, similar aromatics to the nose with still lively acidity and good length supported by enough residual tannins. Maybe at nearly 30 years of age the 95s are beginning to live up to their early promise. Excellent. (CT’s auction estimate c.€130)

Saturday
2022 Château Tour des Gendres Bergerac Primo de Conti - France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Bergerac (23/12/2023)
This is a reliable Bordeaux blend (Sémillon/Sauvignon) from Bergerac. It shows white fruit with a touch of grapefruit together with creaminess hints, minerals, fresh acidity and some grip on the finish. It is a bit simplistic at this stage but it is difficult to ask for more at around €7. Good.

Previous week
Friday
2014 Château Ramafort - France, Bordeaux, Médoc (28/04/2023)
This is on the same level as the 2015 but in a different, more traditional style reminiscent of the 90s. It is less full and round, I think, but shows a more linear shape, greater freshness of fruit and overlaying fragrance coupled with a touch of noble green typical of the left bank leading the a firm finish with a discreet and elegantly crafted oak patina. Good+ and well worth buying more at c.€12.

Thursday
2022 Clos de Nouys Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (15/07/2023)
This is fuller and more tendre than the 2021 but unlike the 2020 it has enough acidity to avoid cloying in addition to the usual attractive fragrance, fresh fruit with citrus and white fruit notes, hints of wax and fine minerality backed up by moreish acidity. Good. (c.€9).

Wednesday
2022 Gérard Bertrand Pinot Noir Cote des Roses - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Vin de Pays d'Oc (03/07/2024)
I was curious to try an accessible PN (<€9), albeit from outside one of its comfort regions further north. It was quite light in colour as well as in body. At first it was dumb on the nose and pretty but somewhat inconsequential on the palate but the nose did develop and the palate became more complex and more typically sweet cherry Pinot with air and a little warming though the acidity was lower than ideal. I may buy more and decant before serving. Quite good.
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Re: WTN: Tour de France: 10 days through a wine glass

by David M. Bueker » Sat Jul 13, 2024 2:38 pm

Excellent notes Tim.

As a general rule, and with limited sampling, I am finding 2019 Bordeaux to generally be open and giving, even at five years of age. It doesn't seem like an overripe vintage, just one that is a bit more charming than most.
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