WTN: Calicabs at Balvanera

Our city “Bordeaux” group (and an out of town guest) met at Balvanera last night, thank god AC works. Theme was CaliCabs
We started with bacalhau corquettas, arancini, Yellowtail crudo, jamon, and salad

2018 Ultramarine Keefer Blanc de Blancs
Solid, sweet citrus (tangerine) and apple, touch of bread dough, tasty but not a QPR play. B

NV Vincent Couche ‘Elegance’ Champagne (7/22 dg)
Green apple with a touch of red fruits, modest mousse, enjoyable.

Octopus provellata, blood sausage

Reds were blind (bagged and shuffled). We voted before unveiling.

#1- quite a bit of tannin, touch of barnyard, black currant and plum fruit, good finish. B+ 1994 Dominus Napa (no votes)


#2 - warm somewhat roasted fruit, a little flat on finish. Some liked more than me. B-/C+ 1991 Spottswoode Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (no votes)

#3 Sweet blackberry fruit, a little mocha, a little flashy but with good herby finish B+ 1999 Bond Melbury Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (12 votes, 2nd place)

#4 - This could be a Bdx ringer. Balanced cassis fruit, cigarbox, touch of green tobacco, long, wonderful. A- 1992 Togni Vineyard Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (25 votes, 1st Place)

#5 - Classic old school Cali Cab, black and red cherries, a little green pepper, soil tones, long balanced finish A-/B+ 1977 Sterling Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (7 votes, tied for 3rd)

#6 Sweet fruit, some vanilla, a bit vapid. B-/C+ 2002 Karl Lawrence Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (no votes)

Skirt steaks, carrots, and fries

#7 Tannic and hard, not very giving, though some good core black fruit underneath, B-/B 1996 Macayamas Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (a last minute emergency grab, opened at table, crumbly cork)

#8 (I think I liked more than most) Cassis and red plum, cigar humidor notes, a little leathery, just a little clipped on finish, B/B+ 1986 Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (no votes)

# 9 Rich fruit, herby, , hint of eucalyptus made me think it might be my Marthas, good length. A-/B+ 2001 Togni Vineyard Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (7 votes, tied for 3rd place)
#10 Black plum, minty herbs, a bit of tannin and good acids. B+ 1987 Heitz Cellars Martha’s Vineyard Napa Cabernet (1 vote)

There was also a Ggrich LH Riesling, but very corked

Fun night, great company. Enjoyed retasting a few once unveiled.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

[David M. Bueker]

That 1991 Spottswoode should have been better.

You comments on Ultramarine echo my overall thoughts, and why I have probably bought my last bottles despite bubbly being permitted in my buying hiatus.

Great notes. Here are my impressions…

I was a last minute addition to taste classic Cali cabs blind. Nine of us gathered at an Argentine steak house in the Lower East Side. Food was excellent and provided a good foil to the wines.

-Wine 1. Ripe fruit, a touch thick, reminds me of Rioja a little with its sweet, spicy profile. Lovely, I enjoyed a lot. **92 pts.** [1994 Dominus Napa]

-Wine 2. Musty whiff of sulphuric dankness, unpleasant. **Unrated**. [1991 Spottswoode Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 3. Sweet, concentrated fruit, spicy, some new oak evident, a touch pruney but not overly so, good length, smooth. Very tasty. **92-93 pts**, my 3rd favorite. [1999 Bond Melbury Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 4. Wonderful bouquet of capsicum, smoky, piney, ferric powder, smells like a classic claret like the 85 Beychevelle. Capsicum on the palate as well with iodine and graphite, but there’s plenty of body and fruit, strong finish that is wonderfully bitter like celery seed and rhubarb. Nose definitely seemed like bordeaux, palate less so. Fantastic. **95 pts**, my fav. [1992 Togni Vineyard Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 5. Capsicum, piney again, a little rustic, like terrific, long finish. Hard to believe it’s age after the reveal. **93-94 pts**, my 2nd fav. [1977 Sterling Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 6. Oaky, sweet, a little anodyne, spicy, licorice. **90 pts**. [2002 Karl Lawrence Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 7. Tart, oaky, bitter. A mess. **Unrated**. [1996 Macayamas Vineyards Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 8. A little bretty at first, but cleans up with air. Very nice wine, sappy, vinous, good length, but ever so slightly forgettable in a big lineup. **91 pts.** [1986 Mondavi Reserve Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 9. Had that porty, red wine reduction profile again, sweet with some tartness, smooth, a little bitter, overall low acid. After the reveal, I was disappointed. Others liked a lot. **89 pts**. [2001 Togni Vineyard Napa Cabernet Sauvignon]

-Wine 10. Another hint of musty-dank cellar on the nose, quite dark and sweet on the attack, powerful, very good. Musty smell blows off, gets better, definitely better than its flight mate #9. Big with some rustic power, satisfying. I returned to this later and I thought much improved, showing real depth and vinousness. **91 pts**, 92-93 pts on later try [1987 Heitz Cellars Martha’s Vineyard Napa Cabernet]

Given the pedigree of the lineup, my reactions were less effusive than I would have anticipated. Still, high quality overall to be sure, and a couple real stars. Great night.

I really enjoyed the Ultramarine. Probably a little more apple flavor (making it slightly reminiscent of dry cider) than I look for in a bubbly, and as others noted, it’s not especially complex or detailed, but I found the texture (creamy yet not heavy) and balance excellent. Probably the best non-French “champagne” I’ve had. Value is another issue, but I’d buy at mailing list pricing.

Too bad about the Spottswoode - the 96 I have is still singing.

Good notes - I read them with interest as I am planning a dinner in the Fall using just those sorts of wine.

[David M. Bueker]

I really enjoyed the Ultramarine. Probably a little more apple flavor (making it slightly reminiscent of dry cider) than I look for in a bubbly, and as others noted, it’s not especially complex or detailed, but I found the texture (creamy yet not heavy) and balance excellent. Probably the best non-French “champagne” I’ve had. Value is another issue, but I’d buy at mailing list pricing.

Keefer is my least favorite of the wines, and now that it’s bundled with stuff I want it makes things feel even more expensive. Then I drink a Hebrart BdB that costs $45 and is just as good, and I go “hmm.” When I was still raking in the big bucks it was no big deal, but in 11 days I am going to be a “senior living on a fixed income” so hard choices have to be made.

Not to mention that I already have a metric ton of the stuff.