WTN: Chenin-Gamay-Silvaner

2022 Pinon Buvez du Bon Pinon Vouvray is fresh, juicy, chalky, lively and linear. Fun and easy but also enough elegance to add lift to the aperitif mode on a hot day. Nice!

On the other hand, with 2021 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L’Effraie we have the ‘rustic’ pungent side of chenin, with the darker-hued flavors (sometimes pear, sometimes jellied kumquat, sometimes dried apricot, take your pick). Have been opening a few bottles and each time I preferred them on day 2, which is rare for me. The wine had more grip, more structure to the layers, better integration. That made me more positive than the day 1 experiences, but still not sure I need to buy a bunch.

2017 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Côte du Py is yet another in a baffling series of Desvignes bottles. I never seem to get the timing right with these. I thought this might be in a good zone, but it was dark hot (14%!) tannic and far removed from what I want in Morgon, or frankly from what I want in wine period. I’m sure Desvignes makes great wines. Unfortunately, I never seem to buy/open them when they’re ready to show that!

Therefore, a quick replacement for Desvignes came from 2022 Wirsching Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner Erste Lage, which was reliable zesty herbal silvaner with a good amount of body in the middle to work well with food, and enough nimbleness to refresh the palate. I don’t get passionate enough about Wirsching to chase them down, but nice to drink and no complaints.

[David M. Bueker]

I am glad I am not the only one who seems to never hit Desvignes quite right. I read all the favorable commentary, but never quite get it.

Your comment about Wirsching is pretty much my feeling about Silvaner. I like it when I drink it, but never get up the urge to chase down more bottles. I grab a few here and there from Dirler, as well as the various offerings from Fass, but that's it. They just get tossed back on a hot day.

I am glad I am not the only one who seems to never hit Desvignes quite right. I read all the favorable commentary, but never quite get it.

Good to hear! Maybe someone else has the magic code...

Your comment about Wirsching is pretty much my feeling about Silvaner. I like it when I drink it, but never get up the urge to chase down more bottles...

Yes, that's true. Especially in the context of Germany where riesling looms so large. We also recently had the 2021 Wirsching "Sister Act" Silvaner, which was even more of a hot-day-quaffer. Supposedly from older vines, but was mainly a simple refreshment for us.

Thanks for notes,
Not familiar with that Pinon bottling.
I had a lot of mid-aughts Belleviere, but never seemed to go where I wanted (think I still have a couple)
I like Wirsching, but where do you put the bottles?

Thanks for notes,
Not familiar with that Pinon bottling.

I think they've been doing it for a few vintages, but I only just discovered it this spring at the CSW PiH tasting. I often find the Pinon wines a bit looser than my ideal, but this was firm and snappy and lovely:

https://chambersstwines.com/products/pinon-2022-vouvray-buvez-du-bon-pinon