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WTN: Gamay - May

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Rahsaan

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WTN: Gamay - May

by Rahsaan » Sun May 26, 2024 8:56 pm

Not sure of the correct Wine Focus nomenclature, but I've been enjoying several bottles of Beaujolais over the past month or so...

2022 JP Brun Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly
A couple of bottles of this over spring time were so so good. Beautiful pure strawberry Beaujolais, firm but with a light touch. Lacy, elegant, juicy and finely-shaped. So so good.

2022 JP Brun Terres Dorées Morgon
Again, a couple of bottles of this have been so so good. I might prefer this slightly to the Côte de Brouilly, as reflects my general Morgon bias. Silky, sappy, succulent cherry flavors and a bit more texture for the tongue than the Côte de Brouilly. But always so light fresh precise and detailed.

It’s been years since I’ve had the Brun wines and these two bottlings have really turned my head this spring. Gorgeous middle-ground between the ethereal/ephemeral carbonic Beaujolais and the plodding ‘serious’ Beaujolais.

2021 JP Brun Terres Dorées Grille Midi
This one is a bit less my style than the 2022 Côte de Brouilly and Morgon, but it’s still very delicious. Crisper, sturdier and more linear, although there is lovely silky fruit. Very nice wine. Just depends what expression you want on the day.

2022 Georges Descombes Morgon
A long time since I’ve had the basic non-VV bottling and it needs a lot of air. Very thin tart and simple at first, but once it gets going, the delicate poised berry expression is gorgeous and reminds me of the vivid jeweled Descombes profile that I love so much, although on a lighter and more lively scale than the VVs.

2022 K Descombes Morgon
I enjoyed this at the CSW tasting and figured I could explore further at home. But it’s so dark, rich, ripe and feels more ‘pumped up’ than all of the above wines that danced across the palate. Of course when I say dark, rich and ripe, that is relative to the Morgon appellation, so it’s still possible to drink and enjoy. But does not motivate me to re-purchase.

2020 K Descombes Morgon VV
Again it’s darker, richer and riper than my ideal Morgon. But, unlike the K Descombes 2020 Morgon, this gets a lot more attractive with air, gaining focus, tannic structure, while remaining silky and approachable. A bit more pumped up than my ideal, and there are so many other options for me. But I can see some folks loving this.
Last edited by Rahsaan on Sun May 26, 2024 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by David M. Bueker » Sun May 26, 2024 9:32 pm

Excellent selections. It’s been so long since my last Brun. Hope to fix that tomorrow!
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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by David M. Bueker » Mon May 27, 2024 3:55 pm

FWIW, the 2009 Brun Moulin-a-Vent is well past its best, even from great storage. Oh well.
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by Tim York » Mon May 27, 2024 4:38 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
It’s been years since I’ve had the Brun wines and these two bottlings have really turned my head this spring. Gorgeous middle-ground between the ethereal/ephemeral carbonic Beaujolais and the plodding ‘serious’ Beaujolais.



Well said! I'm a big fan of Brun. I have yet to be convinced by "serious" Beaujolais.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by Rahsaan » Mon May 27, 2024 9:04 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:FWIW, the 2009 Brun Moulin-a-Vent is well past its best, even from great storage. Oh well.


Aha. Interesting. I had a few 09s last summer (Foillard Corcelette and Cote du Py, Roilette Tardive and Griffe du Marquis, and Bouland Delys). None of them were near ready and certainly nowhere near past their best.

I did get the sense that both of these Brun 2022 cuvees I've been enjoying were not for aging. But that's fine. I have other wine to age!
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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by Rahsaan » Sun Jun 02, 2024 9:06 am

2015 Georges Descombes Brouilly VV

This wine has always been overripe and difficult for my tastes, never providing much pleasure. Dark and roasted flavors, with a disjointed stewy palate that never evoked Descombes, Morgon, or even Beaujolais. And somehow, I ended up buying more of it than anything else!

Last night's bottle finally started to leave that phase, slowly approaching the airy silky elegance that I know and love in Descombes.

At the same time, flavors still very dark and roasted and I don't know how the balance between all these competing elements will evolve over time.

I am also unlikely to find out, as this was my last bottle!

(Also interesting that this dark roasted mess was 12.5% alcohol, whereas the recent hot vintages seem to be pushing higher)
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Gamay - May

by Dale Williams » Mon Jun 03, 2024 2:20 pm

I really like the Brun wines and don't buy enough. Thanks for notes

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