Enfield Wine Co. 2018 Sierra Foothills Chardonnay, Rorick Vineyard. I opened this without remembering what it was: a small bottling of 2 puncheons that normally go into Enfield's Citrine Chardonnay. This was a learning experience for me. I bought the Citrine in one or two vintages and always found it a little disorienting: it struck me as both big, in the way that buttery-oaky California Chardonnays are big, and also light and lean at the same time; I didn't love it. This has the same initial impression of outsized presence on a light frame (like a bird fluffing up its feathers), along with some salinity, the last of which got me thinking. Lately, I've been trying to read about and pay attention to reduction (as a constellation of aromas, related but not identical to the chemical process); on reflection, I think that's probably what I was responding to in the Citrine, and that there, as here, it mimicked barrel toast at first taste, at least for someone who wasn't used to teasing apart those two elements. With a little time, in any case, this bottle sorted itself out into a really delicious drink, substantial and long and with great texture, but not at all heavy. I have three more and will be sure to hold on to at least one for 5+ years.
Dom. Guiberteau 2013 Saumur Blanc. Another chance to revisit something from which I've been separated for six years, and it turns out that's been a good thing. I remember the Guiberteau whites I bought from 2012-2014 or so being super-austere, but this is complex, with bright but not screeching acidity, and with the primary lemon and apple fruit now taking a back seat to richer, deeper flavors, though this is still only in early middle age. A fabulous spring food wine, and a wine for contemplation too. I'm glad I have another; I’ll sample across vintages and bottlings and let this last one sit for a while longer.
Dumien Serrette 2021 Saint-Péray Grand Gachet. I'd meant to open a Saint-Péray during "Saint" month but didn't get to it. This, though, was on the list at our local French restaurant, and seemed like a promising pairing with range of dishes from lean to rich, including radishes with tonnato, ricotta gnocchi with the first morels I've had this year, and pork belly with mostarda. At first, this is very primary and apple-y, but after about 20 minutes, it takes on some weight and richness while remaining bright. A solid choice.
Claire Hill 2019 Sierra Foothills Zinfandel, Ponderosa Vineyard. From the same producer as the SCM Syrah a couple of weeks ago. This is a very high-toned, red-fruited Zinfandel: pine sap and red raspberries, lots of depth and immaculate balance. This isn’t explicitly “brambly” but otherwise reminds me of old-school Joe Swan Zins, and while it’s delicious now, I’ll be in no rush to drink these. I remain very, very impressed.
Sottimano 2013 Barbera d'Alba Superiore "Paiolero." I don't have a ton of experience with older Barberas, so I was naively surprised to find that this is still very youthful. Floral black raspberry fruit, well-balanced, focused. Becomes more expressive over 2 hours in a decanter and would have benefited from a few more!
Ridge 2013 Sonoma County Carignane, Buchignani Ranch. With leftover pizza at the end of last week, pulled this from the section of the cellar I've devoted to sketchy, probably-over-the-hill but maybe-still-okay reds, currently dominated by old Ridge ATP stuff. It was, as predicted, perfectly adequate, but flat, showing only the occasional burst of fresh fruit; otherwise, pleasantly but undistinguishedly Ridgey, if you know what I mean. We had a glass each and put the bottle back in the cellar and forgot about it until last night. In a surprise move, it did not improve.
So we opened:Ridge 2011 Napa Valley Zinfandel, Spring Mountain District, York Creek. Red and black berry fruit lightened by bottle age and surrounded on all sides by sweet spice. Rich without being heavy. Not the most distinctive, not the most concentrated, but a fine and characteristic Ridge Zin caught at a very good moment.
